Seven London-based designers agreed to let our camera into their studios prior to the unveiling of their Spring/Summer '04 collections to document the various people and source materials that inspired them. Use these fascinating 'photo-joiners', fashioned in a 360-degree cycle, to peruse the private workspaces photographed. Like Deckard's Esper Machine in Blade Runner, an in-built zoom function allows you to indulge your curiosity by scouring every last detail of each studio's contents. Enlarge fascinating scenarios and snippets, ranging from phone-numbers scribbled on Post-It notes and fabrics laid out on cutting-tables to the revealing book collections of some of London's leading designers.
In accompanying interviews, the designers explained their choice of studio space and considered its influence on the work produced there.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Interactive] [Interview] [Miki Fukai]
Alexander McQueen/Michael Clark/Kate Moss
View an ambitious re-staging of many of the defining moments of McQueen's legendary fashion collection shows. Look out for a crowd-pleasing dance duet by Michael Clark and Kate Moss.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Interactive] [Live] [Film] [Collections] [Music] [Picture Phone] [Alexander McQueen] [Kate Moss] [Michael Clark] [Dance]
H Project
Accompanied by ecstatic sound of The Master of Gospel and the Joy Georgia Mass Choir, the second of our H Projects films was dominated by nature as Thymaya Payne and Zara Rusadze took menswear to the forest.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Film] [Collections] [Music] [Menswear]
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Simon Foxton] [Documentary] [Styling] [Clubs]
Martin Margiela
Many took up Maison Martin Margiela's challenge to complete what he had left unfinished. Since late June 2004, SHOWstudio viewers across the world have been downloading his simple, shift-dress pattern and adding to it to express their individual vision. Once made up, the more creatively ambitious have interpreted their designs in fashion stories, surprising and varied. To showcase this two-way fashion dialogue, a selection of the best were posted in our Atelier Gallery.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Photoshoot] [Downloadable] [Martin Margiela] [Garment Pattern]
Isabel Best, Gotscho, Emanuel Ungaro
A collaboration between Emanuel Ungaro and Parisian artist Gotscho, this short film focused on the fusing of couture garments with other objects in an exploration of absence.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Interview] [Art] [Collections]
Nick Knight/Alexander McQueen/Michael Clark
Watch the filmic version of SHOWstudio's MAC III print, an image born out of an explosive creative collaboration between McQueen, Knight and Clark. Featuring McQueen's Depression-era marathon dance inspired Spring/Summer '04 collection, and Clark's choreography, this multi-faceted film captured nine views of the gracefully suspended bodies in motion, the elegantly athletic composition that was set up for Knight's Numéro magazine shoot.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Nick Knight] [Collections] [Photoshoot] [Alexander McQueen] [Michael Clark] [Dance]
Toyin/Nicola Formichetti
The Burberry Boys battled it out with the Kim Jones gang in this A/W '04 west side story. The Doi provided the soundtrack to Toyin's graceful study in teen angst and masculinity.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Film] [Music] [Menswear] [Toyin] [Kim Jones] [Burberry] [Nicola Formichetti]
Kate Moss/Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin
Intimate, spontaneous, low-tech and informal. These are not words one might associate with the work of legendary photographic duo van Lamsweerde & Matadin. Not only did this film short reveal the more lighthearted aspects of their shoots, however, as Kate Moss re-enacts Michael Jackson's classic dance routine, it demonstrated the photographers' working process as van Lamsweerde audibly encourages Moss to strike the playful poses for which this partnership has become known.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Film] [Performance] [Models] [Music] [Celebrity] [Kate Moss] [Dance] [Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin]
An interactive camera/sensor was placed in the window of the Regent Street Liberty's store to capture the 'looks' of over 17,000 participants during the period from 14 February - 4 April 2004. All the images were posted on SHOWstudio, including England's shortlist of 10 finalists - one of whom won £300 worth of Liberty's vouchers.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Interactive] [Live] [Retail]
Lucy Orta
In response to the Allied forces handover of power back to Iraq on 30th June 2004, artist Lucy Orta staged a 'protest performance' at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. The event was recorded in both image and sound and, for those wishing to participate in the statement, a protest t-shirt design is available for download.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Interactive] [Politics] [Performance] [Art]
Mauro Cocilio
Photographer Mauro Cocilio took the SHOWstudio picture phone backstage (and front) to document the proceedings of the thirteenth Graduate Fashion Week. Thirty colleges from up and down the UK were screened by a panel of industry luminaries at the Gala Awards ceremony in London's Battersea Park where the winning designers-of-the-future were announced.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Picture Phone] [Documentary]
Brad Pitt
During a recent shoot for Vanity Fair, Nick Knight created a number of
on-set scenarios for intriguing visual and aural actions for subject Brad
Pitt to perform, so as to engage the actor in 'pique' performance. 'Freedom
of Love' is a short film which captured Pitt in action during the shoot,
energetically painting onto a huge blow up of his own face, and adding
caption, and contemplatively reading surrealist poetry. Pitt reads from
André Breton's poem 'Freedom of Love', a one stanza, sixty-line homage to his wife. The poem cites a beautiful litany of comparisons for her physical attributes, deftly playing with language that eludes any commonplace romantic imaging, instead presenting uncanny metaphors. Breton was the provocative, passionate leader of the avant-garde literary and artistic movement Surrealism, who believed in 'revolution of the mind', and in the 'marvellous' - dazzling combinations of words or visual images,
spontaneously created by automatic processes of the mind.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Performance] [Photoshoot] [Menswear] [Brad Pitt] [Poetry] [Alister Mackie]
Nick Knight/Kate Phelan/Stevie Stewart/David Holah
Kate Phelan and the Vogue team entered the SHOWstudio live space to shoot the prevailing themes from the A/W '04 collections. Computer-generated prints from Balenciaga and Giles Deacon, and computer-aided cutting and draping techniques from Hussein Chalayan, Gucci and Lanvin affirmed fashion's preoccupation with technology at the time.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Live] [Webcast] [Collections] [Models] [Gemma Ward] [Photoshoot]
Comme des Gar�ons
Legendary designer Rei Kawakubo opened up her highly intellectual creative process for consideration in this unprecedented collaboration with SHOWstudio. Following the production of a photographic shoot from its inception to its delivery to Another Magazine for its September issue, this project demonstrated how the many creatives involved in making fashion imagery responded to the overarching conceptual direction of the celebrated Comme des Garçons visionary.
For the initial, three-day phase of the project, photographer Nick Knight and stylist Alister Mackie interpreted the emotional theatre of the Autumn/Winter '04 Commes des Garçons collection with its attenuated jacket sleeves. From there, follow the post-production of the resultant photographs in a dialogue between Knight and his imaging collaborator Allan Finamore as they extended the visual parameters of the pictures taken on set via digital manipulation. Finally, Kawakubo added the 'hand of the artist', imbuing the final images with her individual response to them.
A live discussion forum ran throughout the project, giving SHOWstudio viewers the opportunity to ask questions of the creatives active during each stage.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Live] [Magazines] [Interview] [Photoshoot] [Digital Image-Making] [Comme des Garcons] [Post Production]
In May 2004, a complement of mystery guests were invited to participate
in this twenty-two-course meal, prepared by the gastronomic alchemist Heston Blumenthal and photographed by Nick Knight for a visually decadent W magazine shoot. Not only can you now listen in on the diners' conversations in the Audio Webcast, you can also see what's on their plates as they consume the challenging courses in the Interactive Menu. Coinciding with the magazine's publication, this broadcast finally revealed the secret identities of all celebrity diners present in a sequence of unseen pictures from the shoot. In a final flourish, Blumenthal generously offered the coveted recipe for his trademark Smoked Bacon and Egg icecream, available to you as a T-shirt or apron
design via the Recipe Download.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Live] [Audio] [Nick Knight] [Models] [Photoshoot] [Liberty Ross] [Jonathan Kaye] [Food] [Alice Hawkins] [NOKI]
Duncan Cheetham/Lisa Mustafa
A one-day, live shoot in which print designer Duncan Cheetham screen printed from five of his own specially commissioned designs onto seven original outfits. Make-up artist Lisa Mustafa took the print designs and colours as her palette and inspiration.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Live] [Performance] [Models] [Beauty] [Photoshoot] [Textile Prints]
Richard Rhys-Thomas/Paul Hetherington
Future Vintage! 'Try on' the enduring fashion statements from the Spring/Summer '03 collections before picking them up cheap while stocks last.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Interactive] [Collections] [Paul Hetherington] [Graphic Design] [Illustration]
Penny Martin
As a recognised showcase for new talent, the Festival International des Arts de la Mode à Hyeres brought together ten young fashion designers and photographers under the patronage of an international jury. SHOWstudio's Penny Martin reported from the festival in its nineteenth year.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Photography] [Penny Martin] [Picture Phone] [Documentary] [Diary]
3-D & Tom Hingston/Katy England & Bobby Gillespie/Jason Evans/Simon Foxton/Nick Knight, Kylie Minogue & Liz Neal/Felix Larher/Nick Rhodes & Gavin Elder/Julie Verhoeven
Thirteen leading creatives from the fields of fashion, music and image-making used mobile video phones to create a series of short 'motion clips' that visually interpreted the lyrics of their favoured song.
Related Projects: [Fashion] [Live] [Simon Foxton] [Film] [Music] [Picture Phone] [Celebrity] [Jason Evans] [Bobby Gillespie] [Kylie Minogue] [Katy England] [Julie Verhoeven] [Tom Hingston] [Massive Attack]