It's almost time for our next Tumblr take-over! Following our tradition of inviting a guest curator to take the reigns of the SHOWstudio Tumblr for the first week of each month, we're pleased to welcome fashion writer and regular SHOWstudio contributor, Lucy Norris from tomorrow, Saturday 1 August. Cutting the century in four - looking back 100 years, 75 years, 50 years and 25 years - Norris will be looking at how some of the historical anniversaries of 2015 influence fashion creativity. Stay tuned to see what Norris has in store.
As the V&A’s highly-acclaimed Savage Beauty exhibition comes to a close, SHOWstudio presents a tribute film titled Lee Alexander McQueen, 1969 – 2010. Incited by the arrival of the exhibition earlier this year, Nick Knight and the SHOWstudio team set about opening up his extensive film archive, searching for unseen footage from his collaborations with Alexander McQueen.
Sitting alongside our Unseen McQueen and Black: 2015 projects, this film by Knight - created with the help Younji Ku and Jon Emmony - features footage shot in 2010 for the tribute film, To Lee, With Love, Nick. The footage features some of McQueen's most acclaimed designs, selected by Sarah Burton with the input of stylist Edward Enninful in breathtaking motion.
Enter into Mary Katrantzou's eye-popping, reality-scrambling creative universe!
From Mary Katrantzou's earliest collections, SHOWstudio has admired and championed the London-based designer. Earlier this year Katrantzou was awarded the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. Motivated by this achievement and the 5-year anniversary of the Mary Katrantzou label, Nick Knight joins forces with Katrantzou on There’s Something About Mary.
Showcasing some of Katrantzou’s most iconic pieces from her archive, this fashion film includes designs such as Typewriter from A/W 12 and Kite Runner from A/W 11 modelled by both Karlie Kloss and Lily Donaldson. Set to Prokiev’s waltz, the prints come alive with Younji Ku's pioneering 3D animations.
There’s Something About Mary unites Katrantzou and Knight’s shared interest in the possibilities and potentialities of the digital realm, offering a whimsically modern, ‘wonderland’ of prints, textures and patterns. ‘I’ve always been fascinated and inspired by digital innovation and new technologies, it underpins so much of the work I do for SHOWstudio as well as my ethos as an image-maker. I think those passions and interests are shared by Mary - her work, especially her pioneering of digital print, is all about embracing the new,’ explains Knight. ‘Nick has an amazing vision which filters through into the narrative of the film, beautifully capturing my designs and their evolution from past to present,’ adds Katrantzou.
Be sure to watch the eye-catching film now and for exclusive insight into the creative process behind the film, watch the on-demand footage of the shoot. The first part of the film shoot, featuring Kloss, was streamed live in 2014, and the second part, starring Donaldson and was live-streamed in April 2015.
In 2000, Nick Knight and Lee McQueen collaborated on their Angel installation for the Festival de Avignon, exhibited in La Beauté en Avignon. The work was composed of 80 gallons of live dyed maggots arranged in the shape of an angelic face. Seated upon a tall circular silver font and adorned with blue neon, the installation aesthetically mirrored the fly killers found in butchers shops. As the maggots transformed to flies, the facial form completely disintegrated, turning black.
The newly edited footage reveals the preparation for the installation, alongside interviews with Knight and McQueen focusing on the ideas behind it: ‘You get the most beautiful girl made out of the most grotesque thing. It transcended that - we didn’t want to put any protocol on the image. I don’t believe in stereotyping..I think beauty is in the eye of the beholder,’ McQueen explains.
In conjunction, Lou Stoppard interviewed Knight about the installation. Knight forthrightly discusses his long term collaboration with McQueen and Björk and the significance of maggots. 'The maggot itself is an interesting phenomenon. Without maggots, you don’t have life. Maggots take away the disease from death,’ Knight explains.
It’s the second day of the return of our Unseen McQueen project, celebrating Lee McQueen's legacy and the designer’s long-running creative collaboration with Nick Knight. The pair began their collaborative relationship in 1996 and worked together continuously until McQueen’s death in February 2010, pushing creative boundaries right until the end.
In 2003, the CFDA commissioned Nick Knight to celebrate the growth and success of the Alexander McQueen label and McQueen’s CBE. A film of the designer illustrating a selection of his designs appeared on SHOWstudio at the time, titled Bellwether. The new edit features never-before-seen footage of McQueen sketching looks from his A/W 03 Scanners and S/S 03 Irere shows.
In conversation with SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard, Knight discusses filming McQueen sketching for the CFDA film. Knight talks candidly about the transformation of McQueen, his adoption of a public persona with his growing success and explains the concept behind the film; ‘the gentle and poetic idea of the drawing becoming real life,' inspired by the work of Walt Disney.
Watch the Bellwether film and the exclusive interview on-demand now. Don’t forget to look back on the rest of the series, especially yesterday’s Florence Biennale process film and interview. Stay tuned for more Unseen McQueen from Knight’s extensive archive.
Unseen McQueen returns! The exclusive project, launched earlier this year, paid tribute to Nick Knight's dynamic collaborations with the late Lee McQueen. Every day from the 13 to 19 March, we released a piece of newly edited McQueen footage from Knight's extensive archive, along with interviews with McQueen’s closest collaborators.
For the next three days we will be launching a piece of never-before-seen archive footage, accompanied by exclusive interviews with the photographer.
Today, take a look behind-the-scenes of Knight and McQueen’s first collaborative venture, a series of images for the 1996 Florence Biennale. The photographs, which feature McQueen himself alongside model Carmen Hawk, were the designer’s first step into image making and art direction and reference prostitutes’ calling cards.
To accompany the previously unseen footage, SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard interviewed Knight about the project. Knight speaks about image-making and the new possibilities of digital, ‘taking two very different images and bringing them together, artistically it brings you into a lot of different territory that previously you couldn’t have imagined,’ he recalls.
Watch the latest instalment in our Subjective model interview series!
This week, Nick Knight discusses his Christian Dior A/W 01 campaign with model Karen Elson. Analysing the shoot from Elson's perspective, they talk about the level of physicality required for each dynamic shot. In order to make the image look authentic, Elson was harnessed and hoisted throughout the process. It was this energetic and effective use of motion that created a ground-breaking campaign. ‘Going where we are right now, we think of Cara. We think of how fashion has transcended and changed into being a lot younger and more urban- from being haute couture to relating to a different generation and I think that this was the beginning of all that,’ Elson explains.
To celebrate and unpick Riccardo Tisci's long-running fascination with religious iconography, Nick Knight and stylist Katy England collaborate on a live-streamed shoot for AnOther Man magazine, using pieces from Tisci's S/S 16 and A/W 15 Givenchy menswear collections.
The themes of gang culture, incarceration and prison wall pin-ups, which Tisci toys with in the collections inform the shoot's concept. England adds her spin, creating personal male pin-ups - fantasies that merge traditional masculinity with the unexpected and avant-garde, just like Tisci's shows. Six models - each spread on a prison bed - will act out her visions, transforming into sensual prison characters, from the pious worshipper to the work-out-obsessed body boy.
Tune in and watch the shoot unfold live on SHOWstudio today, Wednesday 22 July from 10:00 BST!
Our zine-focused project, Print, has arrived. Is print dead? SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard doesn’t think so. Intrigued by the life span of modern magazines, she set out to gather some of the best cult zines – and their founders - from the past including Cheap Date, Nova, Twen, West One and Lipstick.
Watch magazine fanatic Paul Gorman talk Lou through his extensive collection and take a look through his archive for yourself. Curator and archivist of the world’s biggest magazine collection, Tory Turk, reflects on the history and importance of print while Cheap Date’s Bay Garnett looks back at the success of her zine. ‘It wasn’t about trying to sell people’s stuff and it wasn’t about self-promotion. It was pure and it was celebratory,’ says Garnett.
Don’t miss out on the chance to see inside the thrift-centric Cheap Date and more for the very first time. Stay tuned for new essays and interviews with the likes of Lipstick’s Perry Ogden.
Subjective continues! This week, in our model interview series, Karen Elson reminisces with Nick Knight about working with Craig McDean. Talking specifically on the intimate 2002 film Devil’s Plaything, working alongside former Smashing Pumpkins and Hole bassist, Melissa Auf der Maur, and performing SHOWstudio's 'singing cover’.
Elson and Knight candidly discuss the film shot in Auf der Maur’s apartment in the Chelsea Hotel, New York, in which Elson later lived for a short period of time, and its role in beginning the model's music career. The interview convenes on the importance of music, ‘I feel that music just has that power where you could create your own meaning towards that song and its so individual what a persons perception is to music, the way it is of any art form… it's very mysterious, it just has that power to take you away’, Elson laments.
Daisy Lowe stars in '3D Dreamgirl', a new fashion film placing the model in the world of a virtual icon.
Under Adam Goodison’s direction and 3D artist Claudia Maté’s manipulation of her form, the traditionally beautiful Lowe is transformed and transported into realms of sensuality existing online, from virtual girlfriends to gaming avatars. The styling of Louby Mcloughlin acknowledges Daisy’s pin-up form, putting her in pieces by the likes of Thomas Tait, Moschino and Versus.
'3D Dreamgirl' embraces and explores the visual language of the internet, check it out here!
While you're at it, don't miss Nick Knight’s own take on digital in the dynamic film #asif.
Today, The London EDITION’s Punch Room opens the 'Print is Dead' Library, coinciding with our upcoming project, Print.
EDITION Hotel’s secluded drinking den, the Punch Room, has been transformed into a reference library presenting back issues of magazines, many of which are unavailable elsewhere. The library will be open until 31 August Monday to Saturday and available titles include Twin, Little White Lies and The Travel Almanac, to name but a few.
Be sure to swing by and whet your appetite for SHOWstudio’s in-depth online examination of cult zines and the sanctity of print. Print, which launches next week, will include an interview with Paul Gorman about his extensive personal archive, an essay by curator Tory Turk and an interview with Cheap Date founder Bay Garnett - watch this space!
The latest addition to our In Conversation interview project features a diverse group of panelists converging in Helsinki for the 2015 Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar. Lou Stoppard was joined by Milan-based designer Damir Doma, design consultant Susanne Deeken, Maria Luisa's buying director Robin Schulie, writer and creative consultant Mimma Viglezio and editor of A Magazine, Dan Thawley to unpick the theme ‘Building Brands 3.0’.
The group discussed at length the chances and opportunities available for interns in the fashion industry, the importance of a balance between humility and tenacity and the necessity for thorough knowledge of art and music. Financial backing was also debated in depth, acknowledging the limitations and restrictions for young people intending on beginning their own brands.
Next week we will be hosting live round-ups of the S/S 16 menswear collections.
On Monday, 13 July 2015 at 11:00 BST, SHOWstudio's editor Lou Stoppard will be talking to MACHINE-A founder Stavros Karelis, Topman's design and development director Gordon Richardson, writer Princess Julia and Ponystep's Richard Mortimer to discuss the London Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collections live.
Milan Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collections is up for discussion later that day, where Stoppard will be joined by Fenwick’s fashion director Adam Kelly, designer James Long and consultant Mimma Viglezio on at 17:00 BST.
Stoppard will then be joined by Harvey Nichols’ head of menswear Darren Skey, The Telegraph’s men's style editor and assistant luxury editor Stephen Doig, fashion journalist David Hellqvist and MATCHESFASHION’s men’s style editor Chris Hobbs on Tuesday, 14 July 2015 at 11:00 BST to discuss the Paris Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collections.
Don’t forget to revisit the catwalk looks, show reports and social media curations.
SHOWstudio is delighted to present three fashion films which give an insight into the universe and menswear of Charles Jeffrey. The films document Jeffrey's Spring/Summer 2016 collection, which was showcased last month at Fashion East’s LC:M presentation.
Inspired by Andy Warhol’s screen tests, Lixx Diaz’s LOVERBOY PEOPLE focuses on the Loverboy merrymakers, who take turns in front of the camera, reciting lines from teenage cult films. Devoid of colour and mood, the film portrays real people engaged in scripted conversations, allowing their voices and facial expressions to take centre stage.
A process film by Gareth Wrighton and Campbell Addy, with music by Sega Bodega, documents Jeffrey's working process in the lead up to his S/S 16 London Fashion Week debut with Fashion East. Centering on the heavily tactile, impasto application of paint, which is integral to the making and decoration of his pieces.
Finally, a film by Rauwanne Northcott, If you’re a (LOVER) boy or a girl features scenes of Jeffrey’s club kids taking over the S/S 16 Fashion East presentation with a go-pro and Vogue.
Earlier this year, we launched our Unseen McQueen project, a tribute to Nick Knight's dynamic collaborations with the late Lee McQueen. Every day from the 13 to 19 March, we launched a piece of newly edited footage from Knight's archive of McQueen projects, along with interviews with the photographer and other individuals who knew and worked with the designer.
From the 27 March 2015, we're adding three new interviews and three new archive films to the series. While you wait, watch the newest additions and explore the project in full. Stay tuned for more details.