>Blog (3247)
By SHOWstudio, 12:18 Mon 30 Jun 2008
If you weren't glued to your screen for our live shoot in March, here's your chance to relive the wonder of 'Wonderland'. Model Alice Dellal, biodegradable polymers and several tons of H2O take centre stage as Professor Helen Storey's creations get their first (and last) outing, under the watchful... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 13:15 Sun 29 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 13:10 Sun 29 Jun 2008
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In complete contrast with last season's 'Men in Tights' collection, this time around Willhelm looked to historical costume and specifically Elizabethan England for inspiration. Doublets, jerkens and knitted stockings all referenced the square silhouette that defined the era. But did Willhelm modernise the concept? Apart from the addition of pockets... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 22:01 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 21:53 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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THERES A CRACK IN EVERYTHING THATS HOW THE LIGHT GETS IN. This is the slogan that defined Simons's spring collection that was light years ahead. Futuristic cutting and a space age in feel, the clothes confirmed why Simons is so highly regarded in fashion circles. A palette of black and... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 20:47 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Raf Simons invites the fashion press to Lycee Buffon, a beautiful school on Boulevard Pasteur. The show is perched on a top floor walk-way surrounding a court yard that has a graphic art work by Simons.
By Hywel Davies, 16:31 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 16:23 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Designer Joseph Abril has breathed new life into Armand Basi, as his youthful direction is widening the appeal of the brand. His work is not ground-breaking but his use of light fabrics is stronger than last season, and more suitable to a summer collection. The minimal and fresh collection produced... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 15:16 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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The walkthrough
By Hywel Davies, 14:21 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Continuing her relaxed and romantic collection from last season, Demeulemeester delivered another successful presentation. In a palette of black, beige and white, the clothes were loose and etheral. Soft tailoring and textured fabrics were a key element to the clothes. Older models were utilised to present the garments, as worn... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 13:00 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Inspired by a trip to Ethiopia, Lauterbach's collection was inspired by lost identity. A minimalist feeling, wide jackets were made of linen and silk and the overall proportion was loose. Layers of new fabric covered old to create a contrast and in doing so communicated a vintage aesthetic that... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 12:33 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Heavy fabrics, dark colours did not equate a successful summer collection from Attachment. The overall focus of the presentation was on fabric manipulation and texture, which felt heavy and out of sync of the rest of the collections shown during the week.
By Hywel Davies, 12:02 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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The walkthrough
By Hywel Davies, 11:46 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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Inspired by Joseph Beuys, Yasuhiro looked to the artist's wardrobe of a felt hat, canvas fishing jacket and jeans. The result was a collection that had a washed out and worn in atmosphere. A soft silhouette of modern pieces was sensitive and practical. Accessories inspired by the artist lightened the... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 11:11 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 11:06 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 11:03 Sat 28 Jun 2008
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A human size traditional lookbook from Margiela. Twenty outfits from the 10 and 14 collections, represented a softer approach to the silhouette. Geometric details and pastels made the collection feel less hard that usual. An inventive and innovative approach to presentations, is what defines Margiela's work and this confirmed him... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 22:00 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 21:52 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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On fine form, Galliano presented a collection that travelled to Japan and India and then back to London. Brick Land Gents, Naked Civil Servants and Gurka Punks led the parade of intrepid characters. Vivid colour, print and texture are key to Galliano's menswear and were all here in abundance. Street... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 17:16 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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The finale
By Hywel Davies, 17:05 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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In a striking contrast to the Junya show this morning, this Comme collection was effectively dramatic. The main crux of the show was how well can skirts work on men? In reality, not at all but Rei Kawakubo manages to make the most bizarre garments seem believable and almost covetable.... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 13:14 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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More from yesterday's Dries van Noten show.
By Hywel Davies, 10:22 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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The walkthrough
By Hywel Davies, 10:09 Fri 27 Jun 2008
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Old suitcases carried by the models showed this was a collection for traveling and ultimately utility. Models turned suit jackets inside out to revel either checked or synthetic sporty versions of the original. Signature Wantabe fabrics of denim and heavy cotton were used again with varieties of check and gingham.... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 23:06 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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In a beautiful open garage Dries filled the space with a variety of white vehicles from transit vans to Rolls Royces. Strategically arranged, hatch-backs were utilised as temporary bars serving Pimms and cheese sandwiches. The goodies were elegantly served, reflecting the latest collection from Belgian's finest Dries van Noten. Small... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 23:06 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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With a sea scape as a back drop and a summer garden as a runway, Branquino was clearly thinking about the natural elements and the pleasure of pure fabrics. Super shiny and fresh faced models wore effortlessly simple and relaxed summer silhouettes of baggy pants and easy fitting tops. Short... [more]
By Studio, 20:57 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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With a considerable, consistent talent for spectacle (most recently showcased in his contribution to our very own 1/1 Art of Football project), it was only a matter of time before British designer and longterm SHOWstudio collaborator Gareth Pugh received financial reward to match his critical acclaim. This morning, Pugh became... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 18:07 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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The walkthrough at Gaultier. Cowboys and more cowboys?
By Hywel Davies, 18:02 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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Yohji takes a bow with his distinguished models at the end of a classic show. Relaxed tailoring in navy and black was beautifully executed and essentially Yamamoto. Using a mix of young and older models, the collection was full of charm, wit and very wearable pieces. Real clothes on real... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 16:18 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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'The Lonesome Heroes' collection was about designer Takahiro Miyashita taking a mix of music influences and creating a new personal style. The result was a collection that focused on detail, materials and attachments. Somewhat over designed in areas, the collection layered colour, fabric and texture to successful effect. Delicate stitch... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 14:55 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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Last minute preening backstage at Vuitton. Pale grey, black and salmon suiting nods towards a slight eighties referenced collection. A super-tanned Marc Jacobs watches over the refinements and although he is always eager to dismiss the inspiration of his collections - instead prefering wanting to focus on the wearability,... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 14:43 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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The walk through
By Hywel Davies, 13:27 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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Dark and depressing is one way to define Julius's collection. Black leather as a summer fabric choice isn't a usual one and cowl neck chiffon tops don't scream buy me. Melancholy, washed out style that seems out of sync in the current mood.
By Hywel Davies, 13:06 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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'Alpha Love' was the title of Yurkievich's collection. With a live choir supporting the presentation, young models stormed the catwalk in a variety of Greek inspired garments. Was that a toga-esque jersey top? Indeed it was and many other roman references including metal chain hand bands. As usual the designer... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 12:19 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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By Hywel Davies, 11:56 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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Kilgour's debut in Paris was watched over by Peter Saville and Nick Knight - both who sat front row at the photographer's studio inspired set. Circular mirrored disks reflected a collection that was certainly aimed at a younger market than usually associated with Saville Row. Crisp, sharp tailoring is the... [more]
By Hywel Davies, 10:11 Thu 26 Jun 2008
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Paris fashion week represents the finale of the menswear spring summer 09 season. Starting today, over four days, forty-five designers will present their collections to the international press and buyers. Pitti Uomo in Florence signalled the start of the selling season. This titanic trade show tracks international labels dealing... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 12:30 Wed 25 Jun 2008
First showcased at Art Rotterdam in February this year, longstanding SHOWstudio contributor Julie Verhoeven's latest work literally brings her trademark serpentine drawings to life. With the rather visceral title 'Knee Deep in Your Eyes', Verhoeven's film, produced in collaboration with London creatives N/A, centres around mesmerising spinning imagery not dissimilar... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 10:30 Mon 23 Jun 2008
The crack of a bullwhip is the effect of its tip exceeding the speed of sound, the braided leather causing a small sonic boom. You might call the Doi's brooding soundtrack to Toyin's new whip-cracking film 'Eyes of the Beholder' more of a sonic explosion; its soaring refrain and... [more]
By Alex Fury, 15:05 Wed 18 Jun 2008
Cristobal Balenciaga retired from fashion with the immortal refrain 'it was a dog's life.' Forty years later, the business of being a young - or not-so-young - fashion upstart is still by no means easy, regardless of talent. Now in it's (slightly staggering) 14th season, the British Fashion Council's NewGen... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 13:48 Fri 13 Jun 2008
If you didn't quite manage to jet-set it to Basel for the art community's own World Cup at the beginning of the month, fear not! Our 1-1 Art of Football exhibition may be over, but you can still enjoy it from the comfort of your own computer screen thanks to... [more]
By Alex Fury, 13:00 Thu 12 Jun 2008
'Hot' was very much the buzz word word for last night's Swarovski 'Runway Rocks', held at the Phillips de Pury gallery in Victoria (most recently the frenzied scene of that Dover Street Market Super-Sale), as dodgy air-con sent temperatures soaring in the packed show and ice was hastily... [more]
By Penny Martin, 10:35 Wed 11 Jun 2008
The cream of the London scene (and I) were out in force last night to mark the launch of Chanel's pre-fall 'Paris-Londres' collection at Dover Street Market. The 64-look, London-inspired range was previewed in London last December and is part of the house's 'Metiers d'Arts' range, which aims to showcase... [more]
By Penny Martin, 11:01 Mon 09 Jun 2008
In his supporting statement, Patrik Söderstam said he intended his spiritual 1-1 artwork to communicate 'how serious and important football can be'. He'll be pleased he treated the challenge with such zeal, as Nick Knight and Nike's design director Jesse Leyva have just announced Patrik as the overall winner of... [more]
By Studio, 17:50 Thu 05 Jun 2008
With the NIKE 1-1 Art of Football exhibition kicking off this Wednesday, we are finally able to unveil the work of our Premier League of 1-1 associates in our latest Gallery. Plucked from across the globe, their work - whether photographic, illustrative or even inflatable - displays all the skill,... [more]
By Penny Martin, 16:29 Thu 05 Jun 2008
When Rikki (ROK5008) mounted his canvas in the gallery this morning -an intricate patchwork of shiny leather facets- and we saw him produce no more than a fistful of marker pens to create his image, I thought we might be in for a long night before the ink would take.... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 16:07 Thu 05 Jun 2008
Last night the fledgling winners of the ASOS ltd 100 competition were revealed to a packed-to-the-rafters crowd at the nigh-on impossible to navigate Truman Brewery. Held in association with the London College of Fashion, and presided over by a judging panel including Henry Holland (also providing the night’s soundtrack), Vogue’s... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 13:31 Thu 05 Jun 2008
In typical SHOWstudio fashion, we would of course offer our loyal viewers nothing less than a front-row seat in the stands for our 1-1 exhibition - but this time, there's a twist. From 14.30 Basel time (right about now in the UK), watch the kick-off as ROK5008 puts paint to... [more]
By SHOWstudio, 11:55 Thu 05 Jun 2008
Following the launch of the NIKE 1-1 Art of Football exhibition in Basel yesterday, this afternoon we are hoping to bring you something rather unique. From 14.30 Basel time, watch our live stream as 1-1 finalist ROK5008 (a.k.a. Rikki Marr) creates his Art of Football masterpiece. The above archetypal image... [more]
By Paul Hetherington, 15:30 Wed 04 Jun 2008
Rebecca and Mike came to Basel today to check that all was well with their artwork, entitled "Goal": A classic picture frame, made to the dimensions of a full size goalpost.
Crafted by Simon Kenny and his team from the multi-talented premiership league set builders, Souvenir, the frame took six... [more]
By Paul Hetherington, 16:26 Tue 03 Jun 2008
Some of the exhibitors have come out to Basel to install their Art of Football artwork: Behold Swedish designer and long-time SHOWstudio collaborator Patrik Soderstam assembling his artwork entitled "The Core".
By Paul Hetherington, 13:38 Tue 03 Jun 2008
The sum total of yesterday's exhibition set up was getting a lorry through Swiss customs and managing to unload it. We didn't even have a knife handy to open some of the works and take a look. But Federico, project manager from Italian agency, Sartoria (our creative co-partners), was entirely... [more]
By Ross Phillips, 13:20 Mon 02 Jun 2008
Normally it's Penny who gets all the great fashion presents but today it's my turn and I thought I'd share! I've been working on a slight update of a sound reactive I did for the former Eley Kishimoto shop in Bermondsey when I happened across their collaboration with Japanese toy... [more]
By Studio, 12:00 Mon 02 Jun 2008
Sir Alex Ferguson once said "If you're going to be a footballer, be a great one. If you're going to have a dream, dream big." It seems great minds do think alike, as our 1-1 finalists have certainly pulled out all the stops in creating their art pieces. Whittling down to... [more]