As well as delivering our Hussein Chalayan diptych just in time for the weekend, we thought we'd also draw your attention to a few of our favourite projects launched over the past couple of months.
An absolute must-see is our recently completed Let There Be Light project, allowing the opportunity to... [more]
Our latest project is a simple showcase of a not-so-simple talent, celebrating the inspired vision of Hussein Chalayan, and the opening of his first sole UK exhibition at London's Design Museum earlier this month. Like the exhibition of the same name, From Fashion and Back focusses... [more]
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Hopefully you'll recall our blog earlier this month announcing SHOWstudio's imminent move to pastures new. This week, we finally got a chance to drop by and see how the re-modelling and redecoration of our new space is progressing prior to the studio's move later this spring. Naturally, plans are afoot... [more]
For their 'Monsieur' collection the conceptual Dutch designers focused on commerce with a well executed collection that focused on sartorial menswear. Appealing to the contemporary dandy, the collection offered classic, well cut garments with the usual Viktor & Rolf quirks. A bowler hat and pipe motif adorned ties, shirt collars... [more]
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Pugh unleashes a gothic vision for his first stand alone menswear show. As the last presentation on the Paris calendar all eyes were on the British star to see if he could deliver an important debut. True to his roots, Pugh presented a sharp and graphic future vision for menswear.... [more]
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For his debut catwalk collection for Alfred Dunhill, Kim Jones' aim was to reinforce the label's roots in Britishness. Describing the look as "Classic modern," Jones presented a collection that paid homage to the brand. Many of the press were suprised that the collection lacked Jones' personality and quirky approach... [more]
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Van Beirendonck's collection entitled 'Glow' was a technicolor affair that explored the construction of garments, as seams and panels were high-lighted in 3-D fluoro shapes. Both tailoring and sportswear were given the hedonistic Van Beirendonck treatment and proved the Belgium designer is still the original cartoon colourist. Masterful hats by... [more]
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If there was an award for the most sellable collection this season then it would go to Paul Smith. Based on a mix and match concept everything seemed to have been thrown together in a typically British way. It was far more considered than this, with a careful balance of... [more]
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Inspired by suspect line ups, Martin Margiela invited visitors to witness his new collection. Always brilliantly original Margiela presentations illustrate an artisan quality with inherently modern and wearable clothes. With straight silhouettes and a signature colour palette of black, white, blue and brown - high lights include red and yellow.... [more]
For his winter collection, Scottish designer of the year, Deryck Walker has collaborated with Harris Tweed and elevated the traditional fabric to a new level. By softening the handling of Harris Tweed, Walker has updated its image, making it more appropriate for a younger and fashion literate market. Walker's vision... [more]
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Soft and tailored are key elements to Demeulemeester 's collections. With a distinctively sensitive approach to fabric handling, the story for winter played with Edwardian silhouettes in rich textures. A palette of black, cream and browns was high-lighted with sequins and the designers new jewellery line. At times melancholy in... [more]
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Spanish Josep Abril designs the menswear collection for Armand Basi. For winter the clothes focused on exploring textured fabrics and formal tailoring. A palette of blue and burgundy ticked the trend for sludgy colours seen at several other shows. Trousers were high and baggy. A raspberry pink mac and a... [more]
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For his first menswear season for Kenzo, Antonio Marras sent out a strong and confident collection informed by Russian art. With military shapes a key starting point fabrics utilised included bonded wool, jerseys and formal tailoring fabrics. Floral prints and metallic embroideries nodded to Kenzo's signature techniques and proved... [more]
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The collection entitled 'Left and Right' was inspired by the Silk Road and Yasuhiro took references from East to West to create a collection that fused a mix of natural fabrics. Silk, cotton and wool garments were printed with a traditional Japanese technique. Although the references were Eastern the clothes... [more]
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Before the show an artist warms up the audience with an extraordinary musical performance.
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Last night Galliano unleased another epic collection that was described as "As a return to cut and romance and a little debauchery." Inspirations included paintings by Rembrant and Gainsborough and the Kinky barristers of the 18 th Century Hell fire club. The strongest section of the parade was when Galliano... [more]
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Rei Kawakubo picked up where she left last season - experimenting with skirts. This time around there were fragile and tiered. With floaty and pleated variations of both skirts and shorts, the top half of the silhouette remained sharp. Tailored jackets were adorned with leopard print and textured patterns. Aprons... [more]
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Over-sized checked ponchos were the key garments in Juun J's futuristic collection. Baggy trousers were styled with cropped jackets and shiny fabrics were manipulated into sharply tailored suits. A blue shiny puffa jacket and all in one suit / boiler suit hybrid were challenging pieces but well executed. Overall... [more]
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A dark tale was told by Rick Owens whose gothic aesthetic shone through layers of black leather. The front half of the model's hair was shaved and added to the dramatic and sinister silhouettes. A strong and coherent presentation for Owens, confirming his proficiency in handling robust fabrics with ease.... [more]
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Presented in the former French Communist head quarters in Paris, Dries Van Noten showed a collection that mirrored the buildings restraint and clean lines. Inspired by a book on Savile Row the acute clothes paid reverence to British tailoring through both traditional and high-tech fabrics. Belted suits and monochrome outfits... [more]
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Singers and a live band signal the start of Belgium designer Veronique Branquinho's show. Her message for next season is focused on layering subtle colours. Muddy shades of green, grey and brown were used on super fine knit wear and slim tailoring. A clever double lapel jacket and a... [more]
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Bearded blokes defined the look at Yamamoto where young models and older gents all sported facial hair . A signature palette of navy relaxed tailoring was sent out until a shocking pink double breasted coat appeared. Yamamoto then introduced red and yellow panels in shirting and also on offer were... [more]
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The Number (N)ine collection raised a few smiles from the audience. Whether this was due to the abundance of skirts and leggings or a recognition of the whimsical and romantic mood of the presentation. Heavy furnishing fabrics and felted wool were worked into jackets, pleated skirts and baggy wide shorts.... [more]
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This season Paul Helbers at Louis Vuitton took inspiration from Africa. Although the references were subtle - such as a delicate African print on a wool jacket and a tribal orange cashmere jumper. The designer under direction from Marc Jacobs focused on luxurious fabrics in rich tones of indigo. The... [more]
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Kicking off Paris menswear is Hugo by Hugo Boss. This is the first time the collection, designed by Bruno Pieters, has been shown in Paris - part of the brand's strategy to give the label a more fashion forward focus. Set in a medieval monastery near the Sorbonne, the collection... [more]
With V57 hot on newsstands, our Let There Be Light project is now complete with both Nick Knight's final editorial images and the fashion film created with Ruth Hogben from footage captured during December's live shoot. Our project highlights give you an insight into both the innermost workings of the... [more]
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Archeology, astronomy and anthropology are words seldom bandied about in fashion copy, but the consistently forward-thinking creations of Hussein Chalayan have never been anything less than extraordinary. Now his entire experimental and influential oeuvre, from tables as skirts (as showcased in our Fantastic Fashion Fantasia film last year) to... [more]
The schedule: Paris menswear is the finale of the autumn winter 09 season. From today until Sunday over forty designers will stage their presentations and communicate their ideas of what stylish gents will be petitioning for next season. Earlier this week in Milan, the resounding message from the catwalks... [more]
Perfume is often presented as "pure profit" for fashion houses, attaching the talisman of a designer name to a product purporting to bear said designer's olfactory stamp, cleverly marketing the results and reaping the rewards. A pinch of cynicism perhaps too much, as the the above spread - appropriately enough,... [more]
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Known both for their technical expertise and support and nurture of young design talents (just witness their innovative work with Aitor Throup showcased as part of our Political Fashion project last summer), Stone Island chose to collaborate with design team Acronym for their latest project. Titled SHADOW to underline its... [more]
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By this time in the season, the vast majority of shops are awash with the remnants of last winter's 75% off scrag-ends - Rei Kawakubo's experimental, esoteric Dover Street Market, however, is the glorious exception to this (and almost every other) rule. Today marked the unveiling of their latest biannual... [more]
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Nick Knight's latest shoot with Rick Owens may have finished, but as the SHOWstudio cameras were rolling throughout the day, not a moment went unrecorded. We've sliced, spliced and edited the day's footage into a two-minute short showcasing highlights of the action on set, with Rick's own voice as fitting... [more]
Recreating - or at least referencing - Rick's famous self-portrait, featured in May 2002's issue of i-D, of Owens' double urinating into his open mouth (actually achieved via a Madame Tussaud's waxwork and a crafty length of garden-hose), our final shot is as visceral as it gets. Inspired somewhat obliquely... [more]
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Those scraffito and Wicker Man references suddenly make a little more sense: here, Nick's assistants Adam, Andy, Joe and Tristan hold a truly giant five-by-eight foot print of Rick's face over a pyre of burning rubber to blacken the print in a scene straight of out Lord of the Flies.... [more]
While Rick is his own best menswear model, the fabulous Michelle Lamy, his longterm partner and muse, is the ideal canvas for Rick's sensational womenswear. More often than not she is an archly archetype of modern and even futuristic glamour, clad in the most extreme examples of Owens' ouvre and... [more]
Considering Rick's somewhat witchy (or rather warlocky) jacket in the last blog, it seems fitting that we've gone all Wicker Man and lit a bonfire just outside of the studio door. There is method to our madness: Nick is planning to use the fire to distress and deconstruct prints of... [more]
This shoot is not only an opportunity to see Rick in front of the lens, but also a chance for us to preview his first menswear collection before it hits the Paris runways on 23 January. In the true Baudelairean spirit of the dandy as the black prince of... [more]
Proceedings are well under way at our West London studios: the team have worked over lunchtime and are currently finalising the 3rd of today's planned 5 looks. Despite not having any hair or make-up artists on set, as is usually the case, each of Rick's shots are being closely watched... [more]
It's early January, but we're already plunging headlong into our first shoot of 2009, with portraits of Rick, by Nick - Owens and Knight respectively, to be featured in this Winter's issue of Arena Homme Plus. The set up for this shoot is slightly unusual: Rick is modelling his own... [more]
Today marks the launch of our Fashion DJs film, showcasing the live event staged in July 2008 by SHOWstudio in partnership with Swarovski to celebrate the inextricable fusion of musical performance and fashion exhibtionism. With Nick Knight filming proceedings throughout three days of live action, sparkling sets by Gideon Ponte... [more]
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A new year is always a time for change, renewal and growth - and for 2009, SHOWstudio has decided to do nothing by halves. We've had our fingers, toes and everything inbetween crossed for the better part of two months but now the news is official: SHOWstudio is moving! Yesterday... [more]
To close our festive season of Christmastide crystal interactives, our final image selection for the twelfth day of Christmas comes from leading London light Richard Nicoll. A designer who frequently riffs on fashion's classic and then twists them into entirely his own form, Nicoll's selection is a true moodboard of... [more]
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It is jeweller extraordinaire Scott Wilson that today takes the SHOWstudio spotlight, celebrating the penultimate day of Christmastide. Each of our participating designers were asked to submit images relating to the word 'light' - eschewing conventional Christmas imagery, Scott chose to explore the grainy, lo-fi qualities of the camera on... [more]
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It is with great pleasure that we welcome back virtuoso knitwear designer Sandra Backlund for the first time since her contribution to last year's Future Tense film series. Celebrating the tenth day of Christmastide, her contribution features two items from her 'Diamond Cut Diamond' collection - a fantastical mirrored helmet... [more]
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The latest installation of Christmastide, our celebration of the twelve days of Christmas, comes from London-based Spanish designer Emilio de la Morena. Morena turned to his homeland for inspiration both for his S/S 2009 collection and his choice of imagery, selecting fragments of his own prints inspired by Andalusian landscapes... [more]
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Having ended 2008 with news that she will receive the highly coveted New Gen sponsorship, fashion designer Mary Kantrantzou starts 2009 with a mesmerising contribution to our Christmastide project. Inspired by the prismatic quality of Swarovski crystals, Mary has chosen images of city lights and starry nights for her contribution.... [more]
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For our first Christmastide interactive of 2009, it feels appropriate to turn to Kate and Laura Mulleavey of Rodarte, whose remit, it seems, is always to go bravely where no fashion designers have gone before. Their image selection is inspired by the same breathless, breathtaking litany of themes as their... [more]
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