Patrik Ervell dabbled with womenswear last season but ups his game this season with the use of a a cloud-like print on a PVC skirt inspired by police attire. Thankfully there isn't a hint of The Bill in there. Just slick, uniforms that were excellent for both genders.

Derek Lam along with contemporary Phillip Lim, is a New York favourite for amplifying American sportswear into something luxurious and elegant. Lam did have a bit of fun this season with a white satin bomber jacket dotted with flowers but it was these trousers, a recurring shape in the collection with its dramatic front pleat creating a waft of unexpected volume that really stood out.

Ok, there are a lot of 'urban layers' going on in New York. I'm not even sure what that means. These are clothes after all that can live in most areas, urban or not. However, Jeremy Laing, a young Canadian designer really does encapsulate that phrase. Much of the audience was made up of people trussed up in precisely that - layers of muted colours, varied textures with a protective vibe. Laing served up more of that in elongated shapes with slitted back tunics that were definitely a crowd pleaser.

I really need to stop referring to Victoria Beckham's line as a Vicky B show. That phrasing smacks of a patronising tone that can't really be applied to Beckham now that she has somewhat proved herself as a legitimate designer, lauded by critics. Her take on this season's emerging military theme had all the signature Victoria Beckham traits - the zipped-up back, the killer bod fit and sumptuous fabrics. It was these little details such as the slits in the sleeves and beanies worked with military caps that caught my eye.

Joseph Altuzarra isn't scared of a theme - he's tackled Pocahontas, birds of paradise and Edward Scissorhands. It's his deft way of turning a theme into something 'classy', for want of a better word that has aided his rise as a designer. A trip to Morocco with the fictional sailor Corto Maltese resulted in a cracking gauntlet of sharp blazers, elegant peacoats and cargo trousers. Any reference to Moroccan motifs were reined back with Altuzarra's singular vision for his chic, well-turned-out and strong woman.  

There's a hubbub surrounding Dean Quinn and it seems New York has treated the CSM graduate, Irish born designer well. Gaggles of people were gushing over this tight collection of brightly coloured cocktail dresses with hand cast zippers worked in to for an energetic touch. Quinn professed to looking at gypsies of the 'My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding' sort. He's teetering on the precipice of bad taste but stays well within the guidelines with his precise construction and strong edit.

Ostwald Helgason, a duo originally from Iceland and Germany but now based in London chose to present in New York this season and it was their best collection yet. They've nailed a contempo-cool niche that has ensnared stockists like Opening Ceremony. The deconstruction and colouring of the nautical stripe and the waffle knits are sure to stand out on the rails.

Calla made her debut at Milk Made this week as part of NYFW. Her sweet prints have been gaining momentum and she didn't veer off course this season with close-ups of wood grain, granite and crystallised florals being her motifs of choice.

New York isn't short of the type of designer that caters to the girls that lust after forthright zany/quirksters like Zooey Deschanel. Rachel Antonoff is one of them but her pieces have enough wit about them so that you can overcome the saccharine sweetness to appreciate her sensibility. Pieces like this red snap clasp purse skirt stood out at her A/W 2012 presentation.

From my SEAT, I could only really see rectangular figures stalking about catching the light every so often with a sheeny shiny fabric. That was more than enough though. You got the idea immediately that Alexander Wang had cleaned up his act, shedding all those downtown New York hipster cliches and set about creating a seriously slick wardrobe for a serious woman. Yes, it was about all that amazingly constructed outerwear but my prediction is that those polo necks with elongated necks will be flying out of the stores, especially after seeing the finale of a gang of supers marching out, unmasking themselves in front of a smoky mirror - a simple yet effective gesture.  

It's hard not to be bowled over by Scott Sternberg's cinematic scope of vision and even though the clothes, as he always re-iterates, don't reinvent the wheel, there's still a whole thematic universe to buy into. I was thinking precisely of Jodorowsky's cult classic Holy Mountain and lo and behold, that was apparently a reference of Sternberg's. I definitely have no problem with being wind and sand swept so long as I'm wearing one of the long prairie dresses along with a thick sheepskin overcoat.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista turned out a sleek take on Lacoste's ski heritage (they dressed the national French ski team in 1966) and successfully took elements of activewear and made them wholly desirable, out of the context of a chalet.

SHOWstudio Shop has been reborn Parisian, as a Pop Up inside the 147 year old ‘grands magasin’ Le Printemps to accompany Nick Knight's Visions Couture window displays.

Yesterday, people waited at the entrance in order to be the first to see the unique items now on offer across the channel. And who can blame them- with a roster that includes Nick Knight, Daphne Guinness, Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon and Peter Jensen, the pop up affords the unprecedented opportunity to own a true piece of fashion history. Peter Philip's beautiful Mickey Mouse mask used during an Irving Penn shoot sits alongside Nick Knight's innovative 3-D sculptures of Daphne Guinness from the Visions Couture project. Creations by Craig Lawrence, Judy Blame and David Bradley feature with films that document their making live here at SHOWstudio. Gareth Pugh's covetable Monochrome scarf (excellent Valentines gift?!), Silver Cube and Carson's Arse are all there.

We'll be keeping track of how everything progresses via our facebook and twitter pages so like and follow us to keep up to date with the latest from SHOWstudio Shop, Paris!

Salem’s Jack Donoghue by Matthew Williams and his graphic artist QIL. Look for more of Jack and Matthew in the upcoming issue of L’Officiel Hommes and more gifs later this week!  http://www.lofficielhommes.fr/

I just posted a photo of Tim Hailand and Bernhard Wilhelm and the story of a crazy night.

http://caseyspooner.tumblr.com/post/17561489816/bernhard-wilhelm-and-tim-hailand-the-olympic

Suno's Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis have emerged out of their initial African print trip to find their own unique niche in endearing print collaging. It was slightly less obvious this season what the overall theme was but perhaps, skirting away from a theme was done on purpose. Instead we picked up on personal highlights, which for me included a pair of goldfish print trousers, a folksy illustrated apron dress of a cottage scene and then a razzle dazzle jacket and dress in black tinsel and gem-like embroidery. Perhaps there needed to be more of an assertion of what makes Suno well... Suno and as a print fanatic, I'll relish seeing that happen in the future.