Yves Saint Laurent press day
Fist-kisses and warm leatherette at YSL
Alexander McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are merely a few miles away in physicality (Clerkenwell and Knightsbridge, respectively) but, when it comes to concept, light years separate these two Gucci Group bastions. If McQueen is about edge, Stefano Pilati's YSL is all about the discreet charm of the bourgeoisie: think crocodile court-shoes, buttock-hugging pencil skirts, black polo-necks and pearl necklaces, all the trappings indeed, of Séverine Serizy in 'Belle de Jour'. The sexual frisson of that seminal cinematic moment was evident throughout the Spring/Summer collection - sliced-up leather aprons wrapped over sheer knits, chopped-up zip-front lederhosen and a dynamite calfskin baby-doll dress. More épater la bourgeoisie than pandering to them. Granted, all the above were in evidence at the press day - but so too were YSL wearable trademark like sleek, chic tailoring, tapered trousers and chunky platforms with strut-supported heels. The more directional statements from the catwalk shoe (namely those controversial, provincial cherry appliques and prints) were made palatable in micro-prints on simple cotton separates - the bubble-shaped printed and embroidered dresses, seemingly fashioned from tablecloths and curtains (complete with rufflette trims), remained something of a hard sell. A hefty dose of guilt-free gilt came in the form of charm bracelets, necklaces and rings festooned with YSL trademarks: Cassandre logos, padlock keys, engraved medallions and every permutation of those three iconic initials. Just put me down for one of everything. It's easier than trying to choose.