Live Now Marques Almeida: Live panel discussion

12:15 - 13:00 on September 16 2014 BST

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  1. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Fred Butler Autumn/Winter 2012/13

    Characteristically colourful and executed with increasingly slick craftsmanship, Fred Butler's short and sweet presentation at Somerset House's portico rooms featured intricately woven candy-hued tubing, signature origami folds and knitted gloves in a cropped-and-chubby shape we have seen on several occasions this week. Uncovered hands were themselves accessorised with carnivalesque nails by Marian Newman.

  2. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Pringle Autumn/Winter 2012/13

    The requisite pearls were left high and dry as Pringle designer Alistair Carr today presented a defined and modern proposal of the house's traditional codes at the Phillips de Pury gallery. Reworked kilts evolved into box-pleats racing down the back of wool coats and the original purveyor of the twinset opened its supposed buttoned-up formality through the use of sensual Georgia O'Keefe-esque draperies created by unbuttoned layers of silk. Knitwear was also explored in greater depth than last season with a finely tuned balance of the constructed and the caressing seen in rounded cardigans standing out from the body and knit dresses featuring linear arrangements of frills.

  3. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Acne Autumn/Winter 2012/13

    An upright collection (enforced by leather neck braces reminiscent of Kayan neck-coils) featuring butcher's-apron patent leather in oxblood, cornflower blue and apple green was the order of the day at Acne. Closing Day 3 of London Fashion Week, the show was presented to a musical front row including Florence Welch, Mike Skinner, model-turned-musician Irina Lăzăreanu and the xx.

  4. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Topshop Unique Autumn/Winter 2012/13

    A palette cleanser to Spring/Summer's riotous street-inspired prints, today's Topshop Unique show looked to sensual yet utilitarian constructions of velvet, fur (faux), cotton and leather. A print seemingly inspired by the tracking points used in 3D animation travelled throughout on silk jumpsuits, knits and pyjamas with earthy tones of burgundy and khaki punctuated by black and tangerine.

  5. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Morana Kranjec's origami armour

     

    Paying a visit to the exhibition at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, we were taken aback by these immense origami creations by Morana Kranjec. Folded by the designer herself and presented almost confrontationally like a cubist chess game, the garments propose a structural weightiness often rejected by the delicate artform.

     

  6. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Kinder Aggugini Autumn/Winter 2012/13

    Set against a mashed up soundtrack opening with Jolene and continuing through a 90s R&B odyssey, Kinder Agguigini's collection shown today was also a perfectly judged mix through print (country and western motifs, flocks of baroque), fabric (silk crepe, ponyskin and lurex) and colour (moss green, raspberry, seafoam and pale pink).

  7. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Polka dots and parachutes at Christopher Raeburn

    With fabrics sourced from Yorksire mills, Christopher Raeburn's Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection had an aptly moorish feel (as in Wuthering Heights, not North Africa) as London bathes in archetypical grey and drizzle. Raeburn's signature utilitarianism continued with drawstrings, quilting and backpacks all contributing to a well-pitched look at form and function.

  8. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Concertina backs for shirts and coats from palmer//harding

    In a brief stopover at the Exhibition at Somerset House, we met with Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding to discuss their Autumn/Winter 2012/13 collection. Grounded in precise and thoughtful twists of tailoring to the white shirt, this season sees variations in the form of coats, dresses and an exploration of various cotton fabrics. Featuring moleskine, poplin and mesh in a subtle palette drawn lightly from sculptures of wood, the structural inspiration continues in their upright construction.

  9. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Power Dressing: Hot rod shoe by Prada

    As Lara Stone changes into her third look of the day, now seems a good moment to take a look at the shoes that she stands in throughout. From her macchina Americana-inspired Spring/Summer 2012 collection, Miuccia Prada's wedge featuring a Cadillac tail-fin light exploits a traditionally masculine fetish for the classic automobile and heighten their voluptuous aesthetic appeal. A million miles from the training shoe worn by the traditional student of Krav Maga, it is their realistic impracticality that is part of the philosophy behind Power Dressing.

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