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  1. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Preen at London Fashion Week

    The London Fashion week whirlwind kicked off bright and early this morning with a visit to the Preen presentation at the St Martins Lane Hotel. A perfectly pitched selection of Pantone pixelation over baroque curlicue motifs was the order of things, with gorgeous fabrics and a streamlined and grown-up silhouette keeping the saccharine of a distinctly sweet pastel palette at bay.

  2. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Kirsty Ward at the London Fashion Week Exhibition

    In a first foray into the British Fashion Council's Exhibition we visited the stand of Kirsty Ward, a previous tenant of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout residence in Covent Garden. A consistent purveyor of finding artifice in the utilitarian, for S/S 2012 Ward has moved from the hardware store to the stationery cupboard with paperclips and thumbtacks dripping from her line of bright and bold cutout dresses and fearsome accessories.

  3. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Basso & Brooke at London Fashion Week

    Early explorers of the possibilities of digitised print, Basso & Brooke remain one of its strongest flagbearers. This season, on a distinctly more naturalist tangent, the design duo created a bricolage of nature's beauty queens (plants, fishscales, florals) delivering them in super-saturated hues on floorlength kaftan-esque silk gowns, twisted shifts and sharp tailoring.

  4. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Daks at London Fashion Week

    A 9am call for the Daks show at Somerset House this morning, with bleary eyes abated by a bright and breezy collection - no post-modern ultra-conceptual quagmire to trawl through here. With key strands of maritime chic and a plastic overlay treatment of the house's signature check, the collection used appealing fabrics (silk, seersucker and cotton) and a flattering 50s/Claire McCardell silhouette in a solid start to the day.

  5. by Ben Knight Evans .

    JW Anderson at London Fashion Week

    With paisley and pyjamas (pyjama silks, pyjama waistbands and a louche and refined lounge-lizard air) J.W. Anderson showed a continuation of his utterly desirable Autumn/Winter collection at Somerset House's Portico Rooms today, introducing sparkling oroton, leatherwork and details borrowed from the humble rug such as woven Peruvian-style borders and short fringing. Winner.

  6. by Ben Knight Evans .

    House of Holland at London Fashion Week

    Sticking perhaps closer with the former rather than the latter word of its Pastel Punks moniker, Henry Holland's Spring/Summer 2012 collection did deliver a tasty gelati palette to a punk-shuffle soundtrack. With oversive leopard applied to a number of neat shifts and a new pastelised tartan, Holland's show also brought us the day's second sighting of Lorraine Kelly: the perfect antidote to London's ever-greying skies.

  7. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Jonathan Saunders at London Fashion Week

    A crossing over London through the drizzle to Paddington was rewarded with the chromatic version of a jaunt to Capri and Jonathan Saunders' Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Aside of one powerful black look, serving to drive home the impact of the fer forgé embroideries on a number of less starkly-hued dresses, Saunders again showed how no other designer gives colour to fabric in quite the same way.

  8. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Nicole Farhi at London Fashion Week

    Showing at the Royal Horticultural Society and aptly inspired by a visit to a botancial garden in New Delhi, Nicole Farhi showed a selection of Tord de Boontje-esque laser-cut leather and sack-back shifts alongside a number of pieces in a floral mosaic print.

  9. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Markus Lupfer at London Fashion Week

    Inspired by Hawaii and associated tropics, Markus Lupfer today showed his Spring/Summer 2012 collection on a prosthetically-enhanced menagerie of elephants, baboons and zebras with a zoological theme continuing in his collection of cashmere, cotton and denim separates featuring sequinned flora and faunae.

  10. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Fred Butler at London Fashion Week

    Set to a soundtrack by friend and collaborator Patrick Wolf, the Portico Rooms at Somerset House housed Fred Butler's latest collection: a characteristically colourful affair, with models landing on psychadelic lilypads in an array of rainbow harspichord sleeves, bionic ruffles and polygon glasses.

  11. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Matthew Williamson at London Fashion Week

    Set in the Tate Modern's gigantic Turbine Hall, Matthew Williamson's S/S 2012 show saw his classic slick hippy tighten up just a little with a series of loosely tailored jackets in copper, salmon and classic bouclé shrugged over dresses that featured a watered-silk effect laid over florals and baroque damask prints giving them an ikat feel.

  12. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Antonio Berardi at London Fashion Week

    An ethereal and armorial collection from Antonio Berardi this morning with pastel patent leather panels on razor tailoring meeting with flowing A-line dresses. More intricate heavily embroidered panels here too on a series of exquisite bias-cut silk fishtail gowns in eau-de-nil, primary red, burgundy, nude and black.

  13. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week

    Shown in a similarly fururistic hall to Jonathan Saunders' Saturday presentation, we also saw brocade and damask appear at Christopher Kane alongside a selection of 21st century florals in reflective hi-vis silver and appliquéd plastic collage. Body-geometry was another key aspect with white shirts and dresses featuring an armadillo-like use of panelling and many heavily encrusted with Swarovski crystals.

  14. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Michael van der Ham at London Fashion Week

    In the Topshop venue previously used as the Eurostar terminal, Michael van der Ham showed a collection supposedly inspired by the photographs of Joseph Szabo and his brand of laid-back West Coast cool. A bricolage of prints and colours in the interplay of layers that van der Ham is known for, the look was bound together by pleated bands of silk chiffon placed and draped about the shoulder, waist and hip.

  15. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Louise Gray at London Fashion Week

    Louise Gray's super colourful collections awlays brighten up the most intense schedule and dismal weather and her Spring/Summer 2012 collection was no different. With a more refined and luxe approach enriching her patch and play aesthetic, standouts were the Piet Mondrian meets Saturday morning kids TV cardigans and trembling 3D flower embroideries.

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