Live Now Marques Almeida: Live panel discussion

12:15 - 13:00 on September 16 2014 BST

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  1. by Ben Knight Evans .

    House of Holland at London Fashion Week

    Sticking perhaps closer with the former rather than the latter word of its Pastel Punks moniker, Henry Holland's Spring/Summer 2012 collection did deliver a tasty gelati palette to a punk-shuffle soundtrack. With oversive leopard applied to a number of neat shifts and a new pastelised tartan, Holland's show also brought us the day's second sighting of Lorraine Kelly: the perfect antidote to London's ever-greying skies.

  2. by Ben Knight Evans .

    JW Anderson at London Fashion Week

    With paisley and pyjamas (pyjama silks, pyjama waistbands and a louche and refined lounge-lizard air) J.W. Anderson showed a continuation of his utterly desirable Autumn/Winter collection at Somerset House's Portico Rooms today, introducing sparkling oroton, leatherwork and details borrowed from the humble rug such as woven Peruvian-style borders and short fringing. Winner.

  3. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Daks at London Fashion Week

    A 9am call for the Daks show at Somerset House this morning, with bleary eyes abated by a bright and breezy collection - no post-modern ultra-conceptual quagmire to trawl through here. With key strands of maritime chic and a plastic overlay treatment of the house's signature check, the collection used appealing fabrics (silk, seersucker and cotton) and a flattering 50s/Claire McCardell silhouette in a solid start to the day.

  4. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Basso & Brooke at London Fashion Week

    Early explorers of the possibilities of digitised print, Basso & Brooke remain one of its strongest flagbearers. This season, on a distinctly more naturalist tangent, the design duo created a bricolage of nature's beauty queens (plants, fishscales, florals) delivering them in super-saturated hues on floorlength kaftan-esque silk gowns, twisted shifts and sharp tailoring.

  5. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Kirsty Ward at the London Fashion Week Exhibition

    In a first foray into the British Fashion Council's Exhibition we visited the stand of Kirsty Ward, a previous tenant of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout residence in Covent Garden. A consistent purveyor of finding artifice in the utilitarian, for S/S 2012 Ward has moved from the hardware store to the stationery cupboard with paperclips and thumbtacks dripping from her line of bright and bold cutout dresses and fearsome accessories.

  6. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Preen at London Fashion Week

    The London Fashion week whirlwind kicked off bright and early this morning with a visit to the Preen presentation at the St Martins Lane Hotel. A perfectly pitched selection of Pantone pixelation over baroque curlicue motifs was the order of things, with gorgeous fabrics and a streamlined and grown-up silhouette keeping the saccharine of a distinctly sweet pastel palette at bay.

  7. by Ben Knight Evans .

    A cheeky Nudie-esque preview

    As we are in the full throes of New York Fashion Week with Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta and Narciso Rodriguez all due to show today, invites for the London round of shows are gradually piling up. One of the more unusual items to emerge from its envelope was this mask, the invite to the Giles show. Distinctly reminiscent of his Nudie-inspired Le Smoking jacket that he created for us back in June, it suggests a certain sense of space cowboy may just have seeped into his Spring/Summer 2012 collection too...

    Comments

    1. sally.northmore
      17:42 13 Sep 2011
      I love that invite!!!
    Comment
  8. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Tainted Beauty
    Deborah Turbeville at Donna Karan

    Deborah Turbeville, famed for her intensely atmospheric mises-en-scène, is the latest photographer to exhibit at Donna Karan's flagship Conduit Street store in Tainted Beauty, a show curated by The Wapping Project's Jules Wright. Following the exhibition of work from fellow female photographer Lillian Bassman, herself a pioneer of post-production experimentation through darkroom bleach and blurring, Turbeville became known in the 1970s for scenes of beauty in mysterious surroundings and her expressive treatment of negatives which often had masking tape, scratches and sepia applied, at times to the point of near-total obliteration.

    Set against Helmut Newton's high-powered sensuality of the same era, Turbeville's images may appear faded and blowsy - her pastel women faded Little Edies next to Newton's towering Glamazons of faded grandeur, sensual languor and heightened glamour see Amazonian nymphs set in environs if not sinister, then certainly suspect. Appearing in American and Italian Vogue respectively, Durbeville's Bath House and Women in the Woods series proved uncertainty as the mother of fear in creating great controversy (and accusations of derangement) for their disengaged expressions, occasional states of deshabillé and incongruity of glamour in grime.

    With its defined silhouettes created through sensual drapery in an ashen, sepia-stained palette, Karan's autumn/winter collection called 'Pearls of Wisdom' is the ideal setting for Turbeville's images that credit the intelligence of the viewer to interpret their own narrative from the enigmatic.

    Tainted Beauty is on display now at Donna Karan, 46 Conduit Street, London W1

    Comments

    1. amy.ireland
      20:24 10 Sep 2011
      Love this photograph, absolutely stunning. Thanks for the heads up Ben I'll be paying a visit to Donna Karan next week...
    Comment
  9. by Ben Knight Evans .

    The Café

    As Bruton Place fills with the scent of arabica, we open The Café, SHOWstudio Shop's latest exhibition exploring the influence of coffee and café culture on society, art, fashion and film. The evening began with Keith Tyson and Mother of Pearl's Maia Norman discussing their collaboration (the results of which are now part of a special in-house pop-up) over coffee from the freshly installed Prufrock bar. Over the coming weeks, Prufrock's wares will be fuelling a programme of conversations with various figures from the worlds of fashion, fine art and film with the discussions streamed live on SHOWstudio.com.

    Sanctuary, fishbowl, parliament and stage, the café has also inspired works by milliner Piers Atkinson via a number of extraordinary neon headpieces and Diem Chau's embellished porcelain vignettes. Also featuring works by Steven Meisel, Nick Knight, Ed van der Elsken and Robert Doisneau exploring the ever-intriguing frequenters of what are the most democratic yet intimate of public cultural forums, SHOWstudio invites you to stop by and remind yourself of the café's eternal appeal and constant inspiration.

  10. by Ben Knight Evans .

    In Conversation with Alber Elbaz

    Launching today is an exclusive duet of interviews with Lanvin maestro Alber Elbaz. As part of the Mike Figgis-curated Deloitte Ignite festival Just Tell The Truth at the Royal Opera House, Elbaz, alongside Figgis and design critic Alice Rawsthorn shared with a packed Crush Room audience the true story of his love affair with women, fashion and Lanvin. Also featuring an exclusive post-talk interview with SHOWstudio Fashion Director Alex Fury, our In Conversation also features the Steven Meisel-directed video of Lanvin's Autumn/Winter 2011 collection featuring Raquel Zimmermann and Karen Elson in the most glamorous living-room dance competition you are likely to see.

  11. by Ben Knight Evans .

    A fine spread.

    This is the scene backstage at our latest edition of Object Fetish where we have transferred to Selfridges for an on-location exploration of Autumn/Winter 2011's most desireable items in one of London's premier retail temples. Exploring the store has been none other than Raquel Zimmerman who some shoppers today may have spotted perusing the perfume counters, jewellery halls and riding the escalators in standout looks from Chanel, Prada, Mary Katrantzou, Givenchy and more...

    Comments

    1. paul.herron
      22:38 6 Sep 2011
      Keep that semi-skimmed on ice. If there's any left I'll have it with my coffee tomorrow.
    Comment
  12. by Ben Knight Evans .

    'Beauty is truth, truth beauty'
    Mike Figgis' 'Just Tell The Truth'.

    Centring around the theme of Truth, this weekend saw London's Royal Opera House host this year's Deloitte Ignite programme curated by director, composer, writer and SHOWstudio contributor Mike Figgis. United under the title 'Just Tell the Truth', Figgis brought in some of the most impressive names across film, performance, art, fashion, photography, politics and philosophy to explore honesty through their chosen medium.

    Perhaps not for the faint of heart, the programme opened with 'One Pig', musician and found-object instrumentalist Matthew Herbert's live performance incorporating film, music and on-stage cookery telling the life-story of the humble beast from cradle to plate. Assessing the shroud of voluntary ignorance that the average consumer places over his food, One Pig featured the first and possibly only live appearance of the meat harp. 

    Powerful in a different way was an installation curated by Figgis of a selection of unseen work from legendary photographer Helmut Newton as well as recorded interviews with, amongst others, artist Marina Abramovic and director David Lynch.

    One of the highlights took place on Saturday, when Alber Elbaz mused upon woman, Lanvin and the concept of truth within the fashion industry. Elbaz's talk was held in the ROH's Crush room - and crush was indeed the word, the room filled to standing-room-only capacity not once, but twice - Elbaz having graciously agreed to present his talk two times to accommodate the overwhelming demand.

    For all those who couldn't make it down, the SHOWstudio team was on hand to film proceedings - recording Elbaz's discussion with Figgis and curator and writer Alice Rawsthorn as well as an exclusive interview with the man himself shortly after the discussion had finished. The films will launch later this week on SHOWstudio.

     

  13. by Ben Knight Evans .

    In Fashion, Suzy Menkes

    As we approach the whirlwind of International Collections, the most inquisitive and admired front-row fixture, the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes has joined us at Bruton Place as the latest of our In Fashion subjects. As the International Herald Tribune's fashion editor for over 20 years, Menkes has been reflecting on a career in fashion that began with a headhunt from legendary Evening Standard editor Charles Wintour and the evolution of luxury in a re-arranging world order.

    Recent comments

    1. Nick
      19:06 2 Sep 2011
      lovely pictures of both Suzy and Alex
    2. Anitra
      21:53 14 Sep 2011
      I bow down hmulby in the presence of such greatness.
    Comment
  14. by Ben Knight Evans .

    Hailing Nailphilia

    With the humble cuticle as canvas, Wednesday evening saw the opening of Nailphilia, a new exhibition at DegreeArt.com's Vyner Street HQ celebrating the extraordinary lengths that nail artists have gone to in the name of art and fashion. As we launch Nailed, Nick Knight and Marian Newman's exploration of Spring/Summer 2011's key looks through the haze of government-endorsed health warnings and their nemeses, the exhibition features a screening of the film alongside a number of pieces inspired by the art of the manicure.

    A particular treat is a display of nail technician par excellence Sue Marsh's most exquisite and jaw-dropping creations, from a finger-mounted snake-pit to forged metallic wonders created for Alexander McQueen. Although she defected to lashes from the world of nails a number of years ago, Marsh remains one of the profession's most admired practitioners having led her 'Untouchables' crack nail-team through the nineties serving the most prestigious catwalks as well as performers from PJ Harvey to the Spice Girls.

    Nailphilia is on at DegreeArt's Execution Room until September 25.

     

  15. by Ben Knight Evans .

    A Blank Canvas

    SHOWstudio Shop is undergoing a drastic transformation as we expand the gallery space across the whole ground floor, making way for our upcoming exhibition 'The Café: Coffee Culture & Café Society in Fine Art, Fashion and Film'. Exploring the influence and imprint of cafés -from Flore to Torino to Les Deux Magots- upon their artistic patrons, the whole space has first been literally whitewashed in true SHOWstudio style ready for the stains of café au lait to seep in...

  16. by Ben Knight Evans .

    SHOWstudio Goes North, via Free Range

    A small SHOWstudio contingent journeyed east to the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane Thursday night for the opening of Free Range, the creative graduate showcase. Whilst there was a vast selection of work from photography to fine art to fashion to feast upon, it was the Manchester University Interior Design stand that we made an excited beeline for, specifically to the section belonging to Bonita Moulton-Smith, whose final project focussed on the hypothetical relocation of SHOWstudio HQ to Manchester. Whilst our current Mayfair residence has served as studio (for both Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud), stable and even brothel, this new glittering proposal was entirely made-for-purpose. Allegorically designed to reflect the SHOWstudio pillar of transparency through process, and featuring everything from an integrated archive to a bar, Moulton-Smith even included a catwalk in a multi-layered and impressive offering. An architectural feast even for those outside of SHOWstudio's three-deep Mancunian mafia.

    Ben Knight Evans

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