As Paris steadily approaches 30 degrees in late September, Ann Demeulemeester's voluminous draped layers wafting along a sandy catwalk had serious appeal. A shrugged, shawled feeling was enhanced by fringing at borders of loosely tailored garments and in elegantly shaggy fringed jackets; the collection communicated a relaxed grace that one associates with the most prized luxury of all: time.

As if wrapped improvisationally in paisley shawls, satins and scraps of uniform, AF Vandevorst sent out their model army onto an apocolyptic asphault runway this evening in a show that replaced the aggressive undertone of military with a sense of sensuality. Many strode out adorned with mohican headresses of stiletto plumes, roses and silver pendants impacting spectacularly in the final line-up with models taking a bow to each edge of the hall.

Showcasing his enviable command of balance between millimetre-perfect tailoring and geometric drapery, this morning saw Roland Mouret present a typically polished collection at the Hôtel Westin with new additions of Arts and Crafts appliqué leather tulips, Twomblish bouclé with the appearance of musical notation and literal exaggerated eyelets complete with grosgrain lashes. To a springy Bossa Nova soundtrack, Mouret's palette ran from aqua to oxblood with mustard and graphite completing the Rio-ready summer offering.

With models tracing the circular showspace of the Grand Hotel's Salon, Gaspard Yurkievich today showed his womens and mens collection that was built around a quote from Aldous Huxley's Point Counter Point, "maybe this world is another planet's hell". Taking this and countering it with imagining Earth as another planet's paradise, Yurkievich presented an ease and simplicity through exploring permutations of the coatdress for the ladies and boxy 7/8 leg suiting for men. Although inspiration and presentation were somewhat abstracted from one another, Yurkievich presented a neat and easy-to-digest collection, with particular successes laying in the re-engineered mens shirting, a key piece emerging from this collections season.

Newly relocated to Le Loft, an impressive and expansive venue in the Bastille area, London's finest emerging designers' new Paris Fashion Week home was warmed this morning with a brunch hosted by Sarah Mower. A hugely important boost to designers' positioning in a global fashion market, the expanded selection of 26 designers including London Fashion stalwarts Mary Katrantzou, Craig Lawrence and Louise Gray have been showing us through their offerings for Spring/Summer 2012.

Only London could provide the home to a designer that can now count a brogue raised on a polygonal perspex heel as a signature, but it is Simone Rocha's innovative mix of materials that is steadily building her a reputation as one of London's brightest talents. Standouts include trenches and dresses of vinyl-encased lace providing a reverent yet modern archival of British tradition and lingerie delicacies with the bold graphic impact of banded lace.

Evolving her Ballets Russes-inspired Autumn/Winter collection to explore corseted Victorian silhouettes and an African tribal palette, Felicity wasn't able to talk us through her Spring/Summer pieces today as an imminent child has detained her in England, luckily her brother Henry was on hand to inform us, citing classic Out Of Africa as one particular inspiration.

A spectacular take on couture's traditional closing mariée, this evening's Yohji Yamamoto show ended with a bride and groom's ceremonial take to the runway at Bercy's Palais Omnisport. A show that featured tailcoats, ten-foot trains and occasionally their amalgam could have hinted at such a finale but Yamamoto's intricately engineered looks of formal tailoring and proletarianism left no room to second guess him.

In a colourful parade of raffia-embellished cha-cha-cha, today Tsumori Chisato picked up the en vacances theme that Roland Mouret had introduced on Friday complete with parasols in prints of dinosaurs, watermelon seeds and mermaids canopying several looks from the noontime heat.

After a gruelling 14-hour future-fashion marathon yesterday, the inexhaustible Daphne Guinness is currently sitting in hair and make-up as we prepare for day two of Future Couture by Nick Knight for Le Printemps. Whilst yesterday finished with an archetypal Maison Martin Margiela look scanned by Kev Stenning, today sees Daphne interpret the likes of Junya Watanabe and Rick Owens (amongst others) in a multimedia, multi-dimensional exploration of fashion's present and eternal preoccupation with the future.