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  1. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Cassette Playa

    This afternoon's Cassette Playa collection was expectedly colourful, with some of the models sprayed gold. Inspired by Cassette Playa's interesting relationship with Ken of Ken and Barbie fame (designer Carrie Mundane describes Ken as "the ultimate boyfriend... fearless and intelligent, and has individual style: a warrior!"), complementary talking Ken dolls were to be found sitting on front row.

  2. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Christopher Shannon

    Back at Somerset House, and Christopher Shannon. Showcasing his ongoing collaboration with Eastpak, this time manifesting in nylon satchel-style backpacks, the show had a certain playful masculinity. With Greek influences such as an emblazoned Orthodox cross and pom-pom trimming reminiscent of folk dress, and a terraces (flat cap and swagger) and trimmings (flounces and ruffles) note; the show was made all the more entertaining with not one but three Rihanna tracks mixed in to the soundtrack.

    Ben Knight Evans

  3. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Thomas Tait

    This evening Thomas Tait showed his first collection following his win of The Dorchester Collection Prize. The collection was suitably elegant and luxurious in keeping with its benefactor, and used a minimal palette of monochrome plus navy with enveloping and unfurling garments seemingly drawn from exaggerated patterns of a jacket.

  4. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Meadham Kirchoff

    A very late start for a very short show (it cannot have lasted much more than 5 minutes) was fitting for a Meadham Kirchoff collection that had contrasts of classic bouclé jackets on boys, Puritan hats and a vaguely disturbed feel helped by a soundtrack including the classic Psycho violins. The runway was adorned with huge shrines adorned with candles, flowers, photos and messages in the style of the public tributes seen when national figures depart sooner than expected, a little like the models did today.

    Ben Knight Evans

  5. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Marios Schwab

    Following Katrantzou in the Somerset House courtyard was Marios Schwab's A/W 11 collection of his idiosyncraticly rigourous tailored dresses. With mid nineties Versace-style buckle details and Swarovski pearl encrustations in Minoan patterns that traced erogenous zones, a couple of lapses into less disciplined and form-fitted dresses were an interesting and welcome surprise as well.

    Ben Knight Evans

  6. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Julien Macdonald

    This evening saw Julien Macdonald's show in a gothic church in Mayfair with a collection much in keeping. To a blaring soundtrack of Korn and more thrashing distorted guitars, Macdonald's girls stomped down the aisle in dresses that perhaps threatened more danger with a flowing-chiffon-train and spike-stiletto combination than Macdonald's muse: the angry misguided teen.

    Ben Knight Evans

  7. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Ann-Sofie Back Atelje

    Back at the Portico Rooms, and the beautiful Ann-Sofie Back Atelje salon show. A stunningly pitched collection of rigourous yet flowing and curvaceous tailoring embellished, controlled and facilitated by gold fastenings in selected zones such as the corner of one collar. In colours that resembled and at times appeared in watered silk, a standout piece was a jumpsuit cut immaculately to move with the same freedom as a long sheath.

    Ben Knight Evans

  8. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: hokum-hokum

    Also at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout exhibition were designers Jackie Chung and T Lee of hokum-hokum. Wearing their Spring/Summer collection, the ladies talked us through their offerings for Autumn/Winter which utilises their mixed womens/menswear backgrounds and uses a number of interesting fabrics such as a floral print of appliqued mohair and machine-knitted wools in waffle weave with prints inspired by african tribalism.

    Ben Knight Evans

  9. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Kirsty Ward

    Returning to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, this morning saw a reception held for the designers presenting in the ones to watch exhibition. We spoke to Kirsty Ward showing her second standalone collection, having previously worked at Alberta Ferretti and designing jewellery for her designer boyfriend since leaving St Martins. Kirsty spoke of her desire to interpret things that are not immediately beautiful or appealing and make them more so. This informed a use of "sicky, yucky colours" which actually translated to a soft palette of browns and mustards alongside mesh of white and black that looked far from nauseating. The collection also incorporates jewellery made of items scoured from hardware stores trapped between layers of mesh and neoprene.

    Ben Knight Evans

  10. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Deisgners Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen

    The first appointment of Sunday morning was the Charlotte Eskildsen's Designers Remix presentation in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House. Entitled 'Palais Royal' and inspired by the palace of the same name in Paris, the collection used drapery to an architectural effect and the structurally impressive bouffants were also in keeping.

    Ben Knight Evans

    Comments

    1. fredericPierre-artist
      18:32 20 Feb 2011
      Very beautiful, nothing much I may say will convey my true pleasure.
    Comment
  11. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: JW Anderson womens

    Blame crumbling gender boundaries, LOVE's latest androgyny-themed issue or greater workplace equality if you wish, but fashion is infatuated more than ever with attaining a sophisticated boy-girl chic. The JW Anderson womens show presented in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House contributed to this discussion, and did so with impeccable confidence and reserve. Upon a foundation of lean, mod-ish tailoring, Anderson placed elements of flamboyant male dress -such as a smoking-jacket paisley print- to great effect. Countering the rigour of the tailoring was a refined casualness seen in a skirt tied with two arms of a jumper. Also of note were the bizarrely covetable mongolian lamb and Swarovski-embellished bovver-boot shoes. We look forward to Anderson's mens offering on Wednesday to see this appealing girl's counterpart.

    Ben Knight Evans

  12. by Ben Knight Evans .

    London Fashion Week: Fyodor Golan

    Covent Garden's grand Freemasons' Hall was the setting for 'Pagan Poetry', the latest collection from Fyodor Golan showing as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout. Duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman showed a collection partly inspired by the body scar patterns used as derivatives of status in certain african tribes. The collection was put together with great skill and delicacy, particularly impressive was a leather gown featuring said scar embossments which was deftly cut and had a savage grace in keeping with its inspiration.

    Ben Knight Evans

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