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  1. by Lou Stoppard .

    Liberty McAnena Tumblr Takeover
    1 - 7 June 2015

    Here at SHOWstudio, we've been thinking lots about time and the interplay between the past and the future. Tumblr's a great springboard when considering these ideas - old imagery has a new life on there and work that can feel outdated and ordinary to some is considered fresh and exciting to a whole new generation. When working on our Unseen McQueen and The London Years series, we've been struck by the enthusiasm for archive footage and the popularity of early nineties and noughties editorials on social media. We're also in the midst of preparing to launch a new series, Print, which will look at the lasting influence of certain key music and fashion magazines on creatives working today. It will consider how the success and impact of a magazine can be measured by a lot more than its print run.

    With all this in mind, it feels apt to dedicate some time to revelling in nostalgia. So, in keeping with our tradition of handing the reins of our Tumblr over to a different contributor for the first week of every month, we've asked fashion history and theory graduate and active Tumblr-er Liberty McAnena to consider that theme over on our page. You'll know McAnena from her brilliant page Witches and Slippers and Hoods, which combined archive editorial imagery with poignant film stills and photography loosely tied around themes of youth, femininity and sensuality. Head to Tumblr from 1 to 7 June to watch her take-over our page.

  2. by Lou Stoppard .

    2015's Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar

    Last weekend, I was invited to Helsinki to participate in the Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar for the second time. The discussion forms part of the Pre Helsinki program, which allows press and buyers the chance to get to know the work of Finnish creatives past and present.

    This year’s conference was titled Building Brands 3.0, following on from last year’s For Fashion’s Sake discussion, which can be watched here. It was chaired by A Magazine editor-in-chief Dan Thawley and featured fashion designer Damir Doma, consultant and fashion designer Susanne Deeken, Maria Luisa buying director Robin Schulie and consultant and SHOWstudio regular Mimma Viglezio. I also sat on the panel as co-chair.

    The talk was refreshingly honest - we debated the troubles and choices facing young fashion designers and professionals in today’s global climate, painting a realistic picture of the fashion industry as a complex mechanism, with many alternate routes to success. Specific themes discussed included the merits of international competitions like the LVMH Prize, ANDAM and Hyères Festival, ways of navigating the transition from school to internships and the problems with the current fashion show schedule and pace.

    The talk was a much-watch for young creatives, and aptly preceded the Aalto Arts 2015 graduate fashion show, which featured outstanding collections by Maria Suomalainen, Rolf Ekroth and Reea Peltola, to name a few. Us panelists were tasked with awarding the Naytos Prize, which we gave to Timo Helin for his quietly sensual collection, which perfectly united classic sports shapes with formalwear and showed off a real talent for colour. Luckily, the discussion was filmed and we’re thrilled to be able to release the footage on SHOWstudio - it will launch in the coming few days, so stay tuned. While you wait, revisit last year’s lengthy conversation featuring the likes of DJ Michel Gaubert and hatter Stephen Jones.

  3. by Lou Stoppard .

    Help Save A Piece of Photographic History

    Islington Council are trying to shut down brilliant darkroom BDI to build luxury flats. Please sign this petition to help save this small business and place of photographic history!

    BDI, located in the Redbrick Estate, is the place where Nick Knight pioneered a new form of colour photography, creating super bright images, while working on the Yohji Yamamoto catalogues back in 1985. It was only thanks to the open-mindedness of BDI's Brian Dowling that the method was ever invented and since then BDI has worked on numerous iconic fashion campaigns and editorials with photographers such as Glen Luchford, Craig McDean, Corinne Day, and Davids Sims. It's not really an overstatement to say that BDI helped change the way the world is coloured. Today BDI is still thriving despite technological and digital developments and is one of the few places where students from schools such as Central Saint Martins, the Royal College of Art and East London College can go and learn about traditional photographic hand printing. Please show your support.

    Recent comments

    1. Mariam
      08:05 1 Nov 2014
      Save the creativity
    2. Joe Stephens
      23:45 2 Nov 2014
      This is an outrage.
    3. SHOAIB bukhari
      10:29 8 Nov 2014
      Fuck flats that no one can afford. This is so much more important.
    Comment
  4. by Lou Stoppard .

    The Miss Hoi Polloi Pageant

    On Tuesday night, I headed down to the Ace Hotel in Shoreditch to celebrate the close of London Fashion Week at The Miss Hoi Polloi Pageant! The whole affair was a re-enactment of scenes from the 1968 documentary The Queen, a film that put a spotlight on the drag scene long before Paris is Burning. The likes of Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Ed Marler, Erdem, Stephen Jones, Henry Holland and Jonathan Saunders - all fresh from showing at London Fashion Week - had been recruited to judge. They crowned Miss Philadelphia aka James Davison the winner - what a beauty. The brilliant Jonny Woo was our host for the evening, dressed in head-to-toe Giles. What a glamourous evening! Review our Collections page for our coverage of London Fashion Week for more beautiful looks and catwalk turns...

  5. by Lou Stoppard .

    Gold-leafing the cove!

    What a varied job I have! Fresh from chairing this morning's live Marc Jacobs panel discussion, I got to work covering the walls of our studio with gold leaf. As you can see Charlotte Knight and I are not afraid to get our hands dirty! Tune into our broadcasts all across fashion month to see brilliant expets discuss the shows while surrounded by gold. How very Spandau Ballet of us. Or maybe Goldfinger was the refeence. Or perhaps Tutankhamun. I'll have to ask Nick Knight, it was his bright idea.

  6. by Lou Stoppard .

    A little bit of fashion history!

    The Central Saint Martins MA Fashion show at London Fashion Week has sparked so many brilliant stories and fashion legends. Remember when Isabella Blow bought Lee McQueen's collection in its entirety, saving up to buy it piece by piece and taking him with her to the cash point each week? Or how about when Mrs B bought John Galliano's graduate collection Les Incroyables (above) to put in the window of Browns? Or when Galliano himself bought all of Kim Jones' collection to put in his archive? So naturally I'm really excited that SHOWstudio is now selling one-off items from the MA 14 class. Buy some fashion history here...

    Comments

    1. Merv
      15:46 1 Sep 2014
      John Galliano did a BA at saint martins, not the MA.
    Comment
  7. by Lou Stoppard .

    SHOWstudio in 1 Granary

    The team at SHOWstudio have been thrilled to be involved in the making of the new issue of 1 Granary. Our own Nick Knight shot an editorial for the magazine, which is made by the students of Central Saint Martins and focuses on detailing all the exciting work that goes on at the college and the adventures of alumni. You can see all the images here.

    On a personal note - I was so pleased to be invited by the title's contributing editor Greg French to, alongside SHOWstudio's former fashion director (and my dear friend) Alex Fury, feature in the magazine. The article details Alex and my experiences of working at SHOWstudio, our outlook on working in fashion and our early influences. It was lots of fun to spend a few hours being silly with Alex and I hope our comments are both fun and informative.

    You can buy the issue here.

  8. by Lou Stoppard .

    Julie Verhoeven on show!

    Today in the studio we're shooting new product shots of Peter Saville and Julie Verhoeven's brilliant erotic wallpaper, Forget-Me-Not. The paper was commissioned as part of our SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution exhibition at Somerset House back in 2009. It is a personal favourite of mine and I have actually bought a couple of rolls to put up in my own apartment. Where to paste it?! That's the question.

    It's apt that we're thinking about Julie today as the artist has a new exhibition opening later this week! Julie Og Jimmy Go Dogging is a collaborative project between Julie and Jimmy Merris. It was instigated by curator Lars Sture and promises to offer 'a simultaneously humorous and disturbing portrait of everyday life.' How exciting!

    If you find yourself in Bergen, Norway at any point from 29 August and 26 October 2014 be sure to drop by. Details here!

    Oh - and if you've got a few minutes it's well worth revisiting SHOWstudio graduate Penny Martin's brilliant interview with Julie, launched on the site way back when!

  9. Comments

    1. amenart
      17:25 13 Aug 2014
      I've been playing the song on repeat since I heard it this morning!
    Comment
  10. by Lou Stoppard .

    SHOWstudio in Helsinki!

    I am thrilled to be in Finland for Pre Helsinki, a fashion event supported by the Ministry for Foreign Affairs of Finland in collaboration with a range of Finnish creatives. Finland has a rich history of beautiful design work, from the iconic Marimekko 'unikko' print, recognised across the world for its joyful simplicity (and aptly celebrating its 50th birthday this year), to the output of younger, upcoming creatives like Satu Maaranen, who won last year's fashion design prize at the 2013 Hyères festival. While here, we've been privileged to get to see some of this work up-close. A highlight was visiting fashion designer Vuokko Nurmesniemi's house, which was built by her late husband, acclaimed designer Antti Nurmesniemi and is perhaps one of the most wonderful pieces of sixties residential architecture in existence. 83-year-old Nurmesniemi was kind enough to regale us with stories from her long career in fashion, discussing how she's influenced everyone from Raf Simons and Issey Miyake to a whole generation of young Finnish designers. Nurmensniemi's work, both at Marimekko and at her own label Vuokko, was truly revolutionary and ahead of its time and helped establish the reputation of Finland as a design centre in the fifties. Nurmensnimi pioneered dresses made out of one piece of fabric, large prints and clean, futuristic shapes and freed women from corsets and general design fuss. What an icon!

    My schedule also included a visit to the Marimekko textile printing factory, which allowed me a peek at the brand's wonderfully-named 'Colour Kitchen' where they dream up their iconic hues. While watching the bold prints come to life, it was impossible not to reflect on how progressive and exciting the brand was when it debuted cheerful androgynous shapes and unconventional patterns in the fifties and sixties, designs that set new parameters of taste. It's great to see that the brand is now championing new design talent, as Maaranen herself was working in the factor as a freelance designer.

    One of the main reasons I came to Helsinki was to partake in the Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar, which took place in the middle of our schedule at Aalto University and was titled 'For Fa$hion's S@ke'. I was honoured and thrilled to be co-chairing the discussion alongside the seminar's guest curator Dan Thawley from A Magazine Curated By. Our lineup of speakers was second to none - milliner (and SHOWstudio favourite) Stephen Jones, LCF's brilliant dean Frances Corner, designer Lutz Huelle, sound designer Michel Gaubert and his partner and collaborator Ryan Aguilar. There was one notable absentee, the wonderful and fearsome Professor Louise Wilson, who sadly passed away last weekend. Naturally, we dedicated the talk to her memory, and kept in mind all the insightful, witty and cutting remarks she would have made had she been able to join us as we discussed how fashion has got so fashionable. The 3 hour plus discussion saw us navigate topics such as the difference between 'consumption' and 'fashion', the way Instagram has revolutionised both shopping and design, the accessibility of 'high fashion' and the paradox of 'affordable luxury'. It was a truly brilliant discussion and I'm thrilled that footage of it will be available on SHOWstudio shortly! A highlight for me was spending a part of the talk sporting Stephen Jones' brilliant 'Interview' hat, which features a mini screen that can display a hat of your choice, whether a bowler, top hat or cap. Truly the best example of wearable tech I've come across - move over smart watches!

  11. by Lou Stoppard .

    Rest in Peace Louise Wilson

    All of us at SHOWstudio are saddened to hear of the death of Louise Wilson. Officially, Louise was professor of fashion design at Central Saint Martins, but in reality she was so much more. She was a visionary, an educator who never took the easy route and taught her students just enough to get them through a degree, but instead sought to completely upturn the way they thought, reprogramming their creative brains. By doing that Louise changed the lives of most of her students. She pushed countless figures across fashion to create their best work and find their vision through a mixture of wit, aggression and, frankly, unbridled mania. I studied under Louise. It was a privilege. She was utterly fearless and totally uncompromising - my favourite kind of woman. There are nowhere near enough words to describe the great debt the fashion world owes her. This interview with Hywel Davies from 2011 is a fine reminder of her passion and brilliance. Rest in piece Louise - you achieved so much.

  12. by Lou Stoppard .

    Harlot & Bones

    Today, Saturday 1 March, French retailer colette launched Harlot & Bones, Amanda Harlech and Dominic Jones' collaborative jewellery collection. The campaign image for the gorgeous collection was shot by our very own Nick Knight and features Harlech's daughter, Tallulah Harlech wearing the turquoise stoned perfume bottle necklace from the collection.

    Inspired by Edwardian mourning jewellery and vintage heirlooms, the line is a true collaboration of Harlech and Jones’ unique aesthetics. Imagined and developed through a number of mutual interests, including the arts and the natural world, the range includes beetle-wing motif pendants, rings and earrings presented on traditional shields and lockets and poison rings similar to those that have been used throughout history to carry perfume and keepsakes. Excitingly, Harlot & Bones will be a permanent collaboration, with one collection released each year. This range will be available to buy from our SHOWstudio Shop from March - get saving!

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