Sort

  1. by Lou Stoppard .

    Great artists have been lending us their furniture!

    Keen followers of our Collections live panel discussions will be aware that the eclectic chairs our panelists sat on during the talks were kindly lent to us by the studios of a range of acclaimed artists. Our visiting experts can be seen perched on seats belonging to Henry Krokatsis, Conrad Shawcross, Tobias Klein, Wolfgang Tillmans, Anj Smith, Tim Noble and Sue Webster, Barry Reigate and our very own Nick Knight. While I can often be seen reclining on the white chair the late great Lucian Freud painted Leigh Bowery on! Particularly of note is Henry Krokatsis' quaint paint-splashed stool, which once belonged to the brilliant David Hockney - Krokatsis inherited it when he moved into Hockney's old studio!

    Visit all our on-demand panel discussions to see if you can spot all the different chairs! Here's Distric MTV's William Oliver looking great on Krokatatsis and Hockney's stool during our Prada discussion, and here's Ponystep's Richard Mortimer rocking out in Tim and Sue's rocking chair during our Moschino chat!

  2. by Lou Stoppard .

    A Selfridges Bespoke suit by Henry Rose

    Recently at SHOWstudio, we've been thinking a lot about the rise of 'slow fashion'. By that I mean, old-school luxury, things like bespoke tailoring and logo-less classic pieces - great coats, immaculate trousers, crisp white shirts. That's the appeal of Celine and Balenciaga, or even relative fashion newbies like Victoria Beckham. These designers seem like a real antidote to the bright prints and showy accessories - you could call it 'fast fashion' - on show on some other ready-to-wear runways.

    That's why it made perfect sense that Selfridges - a retailer that's always one step ahead of the curve - opened Selfridges Bespoke, a new bespoke tailoring department in November 2012 to offer their clients timeless garments with a perfect fit. At the helm of the service is renowned Savile Row master tailor Henry Rose, who creates women's and men's suits from his workshop on the second floor of the store, right in the middle of the Womenswear Designer Galleries. Rose has an incredible tailoring pedigree. He opened his own workshop at the tender age of 19 - his mother had to sign the legal documents as he was so young - and went on to work with Peter Moore, Nutters, Haywards, the Helman Bros, Edward Sexton, Lew Fuirst, Bobby Valentine and Robbie Stanford. It was during his time working with Haywards that he began to get involved with dressing the celebrity circuit. He made suits for the likes of Kirk Douglas and John Mills - apt given that his introduction to Stella McCartney, who he worked with for 10 years between 2003 and 2013, came when she asked him to make the kilt jacket for Guy Ritchie and Madonna's wedding.

    At the time of the 'Selfridges Bespoke' launch, SHOWstudio helped promote the initiative by exclusively launching Four Tell, a fashion film by Kathryn Ferguson that - alongside celebrating International Women's Day by featuring four inspirational women, including Zaha Hadid and Bella Freud - showed off Rose's expert cutting skills. We also pulled in their front-of-house expert Jack Tobin, who also works as a freelance fashion consultant, to speak on our signature live panel discussions where he dissected the cutting skills and commercial savvy of designers across New York, London, Milan and Paris. Hear him in action discussing Victoria Beckham, Prada, Saint Laurent and Mary Katrantzou.

    Having spent hours considering the benefits of bespoke, and the importance of perfect fit when it comes to tailoring, I approached the process of getting my own suit fitted with trepidation. Choosing a suit felt as important as choosing a husband - it would be with me for life after all! Seduced by Raf Simons' first couture collection for Dior and - though I'm slightly shy to admit it - intrigued by the allure of Hedi Slimane's skinny tuxes at his Saint Laurent debut, I opted for a black evening suit, lined with inky green. The trousers were to be slim and slightly cropped and furnished with a braid up the side, while the jacket would be sleek and fitted. Finally, the waistcoat was to be simple and snug - what's the point of getting a bespoke suit if not a three-piece?

    As always with bespoke, the wait for the suit was long and required several visits to Rose's Selfridges base. You develop a close relationship with your suit during this process. You watch it grow from a fantasy, real only in a series of measurements noted down by the tailor, to a series of chalked, half-constructed pieces, to a glorious final look. The process of fittings and re-fittings and final tweaks can be intimate. But, just as you're letting a tailor in on your deepest darkest secrets (your measurements and actual body shape), they're also letting you into their strange world, full of heritage and tradition. This is a world of 'snob's thumbs' and 'crushed beetles', a place of immense history and skill - real fashion secrets and tricks. I found that Rose's eye worked at a super-human pace, he saw inaccuracies and errors that no normal shopper, no matter how great their love of fashion, could have noticed. 'Swing your arms...drop your shoulders', he'd say, as I stood before him at fittings, looking not at the style in general but the minute details, the button holes, the cuff lengths and the waistband. Rose is not interested in trends, but perfection.

    My finished suit is a true masterpiece. Already, pulling on a pair of jeans off-the-peg or a ready-to-wear shirt feels alien. Once you go bespoke you can never go back it seems!

    For more information on Henry Rose and Selfridges Bespoke visit  www.selfridges.co.uk/bespoke and www.henryrose.co.uk

    Comments

    1. Brooke Stubley
      11:26 6 Aug 2013
      Fantastic insight into the discreet world of bespoke, thank you Lou.
    Comment
  3. by Lou Stoppard .

    Iron Girls at Matches!

    Here at SHOWstudio we love celebrating strong, creative women. Our Selling Sex exhibition from 2012 took issue with the continued gender imbalance in the arts. Made up exclusively of female artists, who each looked at sex and nudity, the exhibition examined a woman's version of a woman and asked how it differs from a man’s. Is an image of a nude woman empowered in the hand of a female artist? Does it resist traditionally constructed gender roles? Does it mock a voyeuristic male gaze? Similarly, our Fashion Fetish film and essay series unpicked the contentious and provocative fusion of fashion with fetish and displayed work from female contributors including Ruth Hogben, Daphne Guinness, Liberty Ross, Aimee Mullins, Asia Argento and Dasha Zhukova.

    So we were thrilled to see MATCHESFASHION.COM and Rika magazine explore similar, and important, themes with a new exhibition of beautiful portraits, which were unveiled at a party last night hosted by MATCHESFASHION.COM founder Ruth Chapman. The Iron Girl series features 28 portraits of strong, creative women including Josephine de la Baume, Dree Hemingway, Julianne Moore, Mimi Xu and Julija Step. All the portraits were shot by two other fearless fashion females, Helena Christensen and Jen Carey.

    You can check out all the portraits over on MATCHESFASHION.COM now, or by snapping up issue 9 of Rika, which will be available in September. Additionally, to celebrate the launch of the project, MATCHESFASHION.COM has also released an exclusive Iron Girl sweater, which is now available onsite!

  4. by Lou Stoppard .

    Karene B in Annelie Gross' Manus Hyperton

    Today, to coincide with our Prosthetics season, we've been shooting and 3D scanning Annelie Gross's Defects collections of objects. Alongside capturing stills of the pieces, we've also been complimenting their focus on distortion by using the Xbox Kinect to scan them, creating awkward, interrupted interactives. Check back in the coming weeks for the launch of this exciting project...

  5. by Lou Stoppard .

    The 3D technology in action

    We're in the process of 3D scanning Annelie Gross' Scoliosis piece, which distorts the body from the waist. We're trying out some new technologies today - here's a screen grab of us 3D scanning our model in the studio using the Xbox Kinect...

  6. by Lou Stoppard .

    3D Scanning using the Xbox Kinect

    Today, we're working with the hugely talented Annelie Gross to produce a new project to launch alongside our upcoming Prosthetics SHOWcabinet. We're working with Gross' Defects collection of objects, which she produced for her final project at LCF. The artefacts were inspired by her background growing up in a family of orthopedic technicians and prostheses constructors and play with fashion's fascination with distorting the body.

    Her pieces are being modelled by the gorgeous Karene B who will be using her dancing skills to show off the objects' full effect on the body.

    Jon Emmony is recording the looks on the body by using the Xbox Kinect as a 3D scanner. This captures a live mesh of the model and pieces that will then be exported. Stay tuned for more details and images soon!

    Comments

    1. john
      12:16 13 Apr 2013
      Looks so exciting.
      Please post pictures.
    Comment
  7. by Lou Stoppard .

    Amazing beetle wings!

    Last night the wonderful Oriole Cullen popped into SHOWstudio to take part in our Lanvin live panel discussion. A real bank of fashion history, she noted that Alber Elbaz's incredible beetle print could have been a modern interpretation of a traditional technique that saw beetle shells embroidered onto opulent evening wear. Look at this incredible image she's just sent through!

    For more fascinating insights review our on-demand Lanvin live panel now!

  8. by Lou Stoppard .

    Bobby Gillespie talks '2013'

    Inspired by her work with Reptile Youth, Primal Scream's Bobby Gillespie selected rising artistic talent - and SHOWstudio discovery - Rei Nadal to direct the video for the band's latest release. Inspired by the pointed lyrics of 2013, the full nine minute video unpicks themes of dissent, anger and unrest using the signature dark yet romantic visuals that Nadal promoted on her Tumblr. As we launch an exclusive 9 minute version of the work, Bobby Gillespie tells us the ideas and inspirations behind the dynamic new video...

    'I discovered Rei after my wife Katy England came back from a meeting with Nick Knight who showed her some Tumblr blogs he was grooving on. Rei was the main one Nick was enthusing about. There was a film she made for a band called Reptile Youth that I thought was great in terms of the images she had chosen and the way they were edited. Seeing this film gave me the idea that we maybe shared a similar aesthetic. I got in touch with Rei and we met up and  had a good talk and I played her some music and we started sending each other our favourite Tumblrs/blogs and we took it from there.' Read the full interview here.

    Watch Rei Nadal's video for 2013 now!

  9. by Lou Stoppard .

    The amazing Fred Butler has launched a pop-up shop!

    SHOWstudio friend - and stalwart collections panelist - Fred Butler has launched an amazing pop-up shop!

    Here at SHOWstudio we love it when people push the boundaries of how fashion is presented, so we are thrilled that Fred has decided to present her Autumn/Winter collection - tongue-twistingly titled 'Wham Bam, Tangram Famalam' with a public pop-up space in London’s Seven Dials that combines installation, fashion film, space design and consumer retail - the aim being to 'redefine the role of seasonality and exclusivity within contemporary fashion today'.

    The collection is inspired by the strong geometric shapes of the ancient Chinese Tangram puzzles, as well as Fred's love of the Spectro-Magnificent Rainbow Palette. Alongside signature bespoke showpieces, you can get your hands on bold printed iPad, laptop and iPhone cases, silk scarves, clutch bags, totes, tees, greetings cards and stickers alongside British manufactured necklaces, earrings, key-rings and bracelets. Fred's also introduced precious metals for first time this season, so be sure to check out her small range of luxury Jewellery.

    To visit Fred's pop-up for yourself head over to 53 Monmouth Steet, WC2, in Covent Garden's Seven Dials!

  10. by Lou Stoppard .

    Feminism in Fashion panel talk at the V&A

    On Friday I was honoured to speak at the V&A on the topic of Feminism in Fashion as part of their V&A Connects series. I was on a panel alongside the wonderful fashion commentator Caryn Franklin and the great fashion filmmaker and curator Kathryn Ferguson. We were kept in order by writer, critic and tutor (and SHOWstudio friend) Hywel Davies. Here at SHOWstudio we've been championing discussion and debate around gender for a while - just see our Selling Sex exhibition, our Fashion Fetish film and essay series and our recently launched Studs project - so it's great to see that others think the important topic is worthy of discussion. People tend to incorrectly assume that the arts are a female-friendly arena, filled with equal opportunities for both sexes. While fashion, art and film certainly have some amazing female figureheads, the truth is that women remain woefully underrepresented across the board. This imbalance was discussed at length during the panel talk, as were the images that fashion promotes of women and the industry's largely regressive attitude towards the female form. We were blessed with an incredibly passionate and informed audience who were keen to grill us on our own personal experiences and thoughts, all while making their concerns heard.

    If you're a feminist - or even better a fashionable feminist - check out our Fashion Fetish initiative for emotive films by a range of fantastic female artists and creatives, as well as informed essays - many of which directly cite feminist literature - from contributors such as Erika Eiffel, Susannah Frankel, Valerie Steele and Harriet Walker. Do let us know your thoughts on the project - and on the issue of feminism in fashion in general - on our Twitter.

    A big thanks to the V&A and Alexandra Plesner for organising and hosting such a great evening, and to my fellow panelists for providing such incredible food for thought. Image credit: @MegawhatDesign

  11. by Lou Stoppard .

    Maran Coates takes on the Giles Deacon Design Download

    Our wonderful band of interns were so excited by our Giles Deacon Design Download that they decided to have a go at making it themselves! Headed up by the brilliant Maran Coates, our current editorial intern, the team set to work crafting The Troubadour in electric neoprene. And, showing off the full creative potential of the pattern, they also put a personal stamp on Giles' creation by eschewing the full length sleeves in favour of a cropped puffed cap sleeve. Saucy. See the first ode to The Troubadour take shape here - and don't forget you too can craft this gorgeous frock thanks to our downloadable pattern. Be sure and send in images of your creation via Twitter (@SHOWstudio #DesignDownload) and/or email (design.download@showstudio.com) for the chance to see your work displayed online in our submissions gallery. The best creation, as chosen by Giles and Nick Knight, will win a starring role in a special SHOWstudio fashion film!

    Comments

    1. robbie
      12:41 3 Jan 2013
      Hi When is the deadline for the G Deacon project
    Comment
  12. by Lou Stoppard .

    Betony Vernon in the studio!

    Earlier today, the gorgeous Betony Vernon dropped by to give us a sneak peek of her new book, The Boudoir Bible: The Uninhibited Sex Guide for Today (Rizzoli). Check out Betony's bag of tricks, and stay tuned for an exclusive interview - coming early next year.

  13. by Lou Stoppard .

    Coming soon: Giles Deacon Design Download

    Launched in 2002, SHOWstudio's Design Download initiative has a simple and direct aim: to help demystifying the fashion process by offering prestigious designer garment patterns for download via the Internet. Over the last decade we've offered up patterns from legends such as Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Gareth Pugh, Stephen Jones, Martin Margiela, John Galliano and Antony Price. We are now gearing up to launch the ninth installment - a download from the wonderful Giles Deacon. The pattern (which will be available imminently) hails from his nature-inspired Autumn/Winter 2007 collection, and will ensure that everyone can have a drop of Giles magic in their wardrobe! Check out this sneak peak of the dress (shot by Nick Knight for a celebratory fashion film) and stay tuned for our exciting, and top secret, competition - details coming soon!

  14. by Lou Stoppard .

    New Fashion Fetish essay live!

    'There is a belief that there is ‘normal’ sexuality – between one man and one woman, in the context of a stable, monogamous relationship, with half an eye on reproduction. All other sorts of sexuality are abnormal, deviant, immoral, unnatural, perverted...'

    After a brief hiatus over Collections our Fashion Fetish series has resumed with the launch of our final few essays. Responding to Lily Donaldson's amusing amature porn inspired piece - which drew inspiration from fetish group 'the furries' - writer and cultural critic Alison Bancroft has offered up an essay that explores the interplay between fetish and trouble. There couldn't be a more qualified writer for this project - Bancroft specialises in sexuality, modern culture and fashion and this year published a book titled Fashion and Psychoanalysis. Her essay offers an informed discussion of the percieved difference between 'normal' and 'abnormal' intercourse and the existance of a feminine masquerade.

    The piece, which draws on the work of sexuality and gender doyens such as Sigmund Freud and Michele Montrelay, is live in our project. Read it now.

  1. Page 2 of 6
  2. 1
  3. 2
  4. 3
  5. 4
  6. 5
  7. 6