Emerging fashion illustrator Josie Hall popped into the studio today to show us her intricate line drawings of designs from Spring/Summer 2014. We liked them so much, we've invited her to cover Collections for us next year!
Nick Knight continues his series of interviews Punk: Photography today with a call to Ray Stevenson. They discuss one of punks most enduring images, Stevenson's portrait of Soo Catwoman.
The photograph presents an unusually alluring vision of a movement that valued everything depraved and degenerate. Gazing directly down the camera lens, Soo Catwoman's prerogative was to dress in a way that would provoke and aggravate- she shaved her hair to look like cat ears, flaunted multiple piercings and dressed in the expected seditionaries apparel. Stevenson reveals however that it had the exact opposite effect on him and in fact, he was held in thrall of her look. This reaction seems to have been shared, with the image gracing the covers of multiple publications internationally. In the interview, Stevenson reveals details about this shoot that was commissioned by Malcolm McLaren and contemplates the punk legacy.
A print of this image is being displayed as part of SHOWstudio's current exhibition The Photography of Punk and is shown alongside work by Robert Mapplethorpe, Jon Savage and more. The prints are all available to buy from SHOWstudio Shop.
The interview series continues next week when Nick Knight speaks with Jon Savage about his photographs of West Kensington and Judy Linn who photographed Robert Mapplethorpe and Patti Smith in the early 1970s.
Since 1846 Savile Row has been synonymous with the most meticulous men's tailoring in the world. Much of the street's reputation rests on the ability of the men and women who create the patterns from which suits are made. From 20 precise measurements, a Savile Row cutter makes a bespoke card pattern for each and every client, from which a flawlessly fitted suit is made. The pattern is named, kept and filed, it can be altered and reworked over time, mimicking the changes in the body of the client.
In many of the Row's long term relationships, a pattern may stay in house right to the bitter end and only when an individual passes away are the patterns no longer of use. But what remains is a perfect trace of a body which disappears. Prior to the dominion of the tailors, the street had been occupied by doctors and surgeons who swiftly moved on to Harley Street when the suit makers descended. So from one stitcher, to another, the area is inextricably linked with a habit of de constructing bodies in one way or another.
It is the relationship of these patterns to the body, traced out in finely constructed yet fragile cuttings that so fascinates artist Hormazd Narielwalla. Studying for his PhD at the London College of Fashion, Narielwalla's practice has lead him to uncover a range of patterns that have been discarded for this very reason. Their bodily counterpart has died, and due to the bespoke nature of the craft, the pattern is rendered redundant. But in these cuttings, Narielwalla finds a connection with bodily matter that is reduced down to its simplest components. Using surgical precision, Narielwalla breathes new life into them by reading them in a similar way to the artists linked with cubism and abstraction. He creates collages which pick out shapes that trace the body as a surface. Narielwalla's studio is crammed full of these patterns, and the Savile Row cuttings are accompanied by vintage lingerie, Victorian mourning dress and military uniform patterns. Each will be appropriated by Narielwalla into collage and sculpture finding new ways of rendering the physical body.
SHOWstudio Shop will soon be offering a selection of Narielwalla's intricate collages for sale. Watch the blog to find out when they will become available to buy.
The SHOWstudio SHOWcabinet will be transformed this September when we open an exhibition dedicated to exploring the images and objects that defined the punk aesthetic. Curated by Nick Knight, the show includes artworks by Robert Mapplethorpe, Tom of Finland, Jim French and Jamie Reid, photography from Ray Stevenson, Judy Linn, Jonh Ingham, Bob Gruen and Dennis Morris, and personal effects from key punk players, including Vivenne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren, The Clash and more.
The punk aesthetic was coined by relatively few individuals who found inspiration in the detritus of the streets and the deprived working class. The spirit of DIY that infiltrated all aspects of the punk ethos instilled a sense of opportunism in its participants, it encouraged a frank individualism which momentarily allowed a power shift from the privileged few to the impoverished many. While the life time of punk was fleeting, the tenacity with which it attacked the establishment has left an indelible mark on subsequent creative output. It is this that we intend to explore in the show.
A key series of photography arrived today from journalist and photographer Jon Savage. Titled Uninhabited London, the series presents a picture of West Kensington in the late 70's. Savage recognised the impact that the desolate London landscape had on his contemporaries at this time, and documented his surroundings from Westbourne Park Road to Shepherd's Bush spur. He has linked the environment with punk explicitly, saying 'The hyper-speed velocity of the Clash’s early live shows were, in part, an indication of the energy that came from seeing London’s dereliction as an opportunity: the forgotten city as playground.'
The series sets the scene for our upcoming show which opens Wednesday 4 September. We'll reveal further artworks to be included soon.
Iris van Herpen's beautiful water dress will be on display to the public for the very first time this June as the central piece in our upcoming SHOWcabinet exhibition. Opening on Thursday 6 June, the exhibition will showcase both the dress and the film that was made during Splash, a creative collaboration between van Herpen, Nick Knight and Daphne Guinness. The whole process was streamed live on SHOWstudio.com over a 7 day broadcast, and now we're displaying the pieces themselves at our headquarters at 19 Motcomb Street in London.
In van Herpen's work fashion, science, art and technology are not separate subjects, but flow from a single source. And so accompanying her work in the cabinet are art works and fashion items that make the same leaps to break down the divisions between disciplines. The artists included are informed by art history, science and nature equally and present works created through meticulous and repetitive crafts. They find their inspiration in natural wonders- spirals, skeletons, waves and wings, where science and art collide.
The artists featured include Iris van Herpen, Nick Knight, Geoffrey Lillemon, Salvador Breed, Kris Kuksi, Tobias Klein, Michael Hansmeyer, Kate MccGwire, Philip Treacy, Jordan Askill, Isaie Bloch and Irene Bussemaker.
Iris van Herpen has completed the second day of her LiveStudio and the water dress is beginning to take shape. During today's broadcast van Herpen has revealed various details about her working processes, her inspirations and her wish list of collaborators! Geoffrey Lillemon and Salvador Breed have also been answering viewers' questions and giving an insight into their editing and recording methods. If there's something you've been wanting to ask any of them, now's your chance. You can scroll to the bottom of the project page and submit your questions there. We're live again tomorrow from 11.00 BST for more Splash!
Join SHOWstudio again from 11:00 BST today when Iris van Herpen will continue creating her new 'Crystallization' dress. Having selected a stunning image from Nick Knight's shoot on Tuesday, van Herpen will be meticulously re-creating the splash of water that descended upon Daphne Guinness. We will also see and hear more from artists Geoffrey Lillemon and Salvador Breed who will be using Knight's footage to create an animation and sound design to accompany the dress. Put your questions to each of them at the bottom of the project page now. We will be asking them at 11:00 BST, 14:30 BST and 17:00 BST live online today!
Day one of Iris van Herpen's LiveStudio Splash! is complete. After selecting the image on which she will base her garment, van Herpen has set about creating her latest piece from scratch. Tune in again tomorrow from 11:00 BST to see her progress and put your questions to her now.
Iris van Herpen has selected the frame that will determine her new creation. Taken from the thousands of stills captured during yesterday's shoot, the image depicts cascades of black and clear water as they cover Daphne Guinness' silhouette. It was chosen during an intimate talk between Nick Knight and van Herpen broadcast live this morning on SHOWstudio.com. Van Herpen has now begun her newest design and we will be streaming live until 17:30 BST today. She will be taking questions from viewers throughout the stream so put yours to her now on the project page!
Today marks the start of Iris van Herpen's much anticipated LiveStudio Splash! Nick Knight captured high speed footage of Daphne Guinness being splashed with water during an incredibly exciting day of shooting at Park Royal Studios yesterday. Now, van Herpen will chose a frame from the footage as inspiration for her newest design. We're broadcasting the entire process from start to finish live over the next seven days. Tune in from 11:00 BST today, 3 April, to see Iris reveal her craft and put your question to her via the project page now!
Nick Knight has captured high speed footage of Daphne Guinness being splashed with black and clear water for Iris van Herpen's upcoming LiveStudio. Guinness looked positively statuesque as the streams of water covered her. Tune in tomorrow to see van Herpen use the footage to create her water dress.
Preparations are almost complete for Nick Knight to shoot Daphne Guinness for Iris van Herpen's LiveStudio Splash!. Four high speed cameras are arranged around the corners of the studio and will capture the structure of the water as it wraps itself around Guinness. The footage will not only be used by van Herpen to create her newest Crystallization dress, but will also be the material for a new film by Geoffrey Lillemon and sound design by Salvador Breed. Lillemon and Breed, together with Joost Korngold, are the artists behind van Herpen's recent couture teaser film Voltage which depicted an undulating metallic mass set amidst the Palace of Versaille. You can put your questions to Iris, Geoffrey and Salvador now to be answered during tomorrow's live broadcast!
Today Iris van Herpen, Daphne Guinness and Nick Knight begin Splash!, SHOWstudio's most ambitious LiveStudio to date. Preparations are underway at Park Royal Studios where Nick Knight will shoot Daphne Guinness on four high speed cameras while she is splashed with clear and black water. The footage will be used by Iris van Herpen during a seven day live broadcast, commencing tomorrow, in which she will create a new Crystallization dress. The dress is an evolution from her 2010 collection, which saw models wearing garments created from clear plastic moulded into the shape of splashing water. Van Herpen will guide us through the process while answering questions from SHOWstudio viewers. We will be blogging throughout the day today with behind the scenes images and live updates. Tune in tomorrow from 11:00 BST to see Iris scour the footage for the frame that will determine her latest design, and be sure to put your questions to her now!
Una Burke has collaborated with SHOWstudio on a fashion film to be released alongside her upcoming SHOWcabinet at our new headquarters at Motcomb Street. Centred around the potential in prosthetics to adorn, equip and enhance, the cabinet will feature Burke's signature leather sculptures alongside art works and garments by Kat Marks, Paddy Hartley, Ana Rajcevic, Dai Rees, Kyle Hopkins, Aimee Mullins and Betony Vernon. Today, we shot an exclusive fashion film directed by SHOWstudio's head of fashion film, Marie Schuller which brought Burke's latest sculpture subtley and surreally to life. The film and exhibition launch exclusively with SHOWstudio on 17th April 2013.
Daphne Guinness kick started SHOWstudio's new gallery venture, 'SHOWcabinet', with a fantastic launch party last night. People queued in the cold to catch a glimpse of Guinness' gorgeous installation. Mimicking the characteristics of a renaissance cabinet of curiosities, the SHOWcabinet features various items and artefacts which reflect Guinness' oeuvre and offers each of them up for sale. From her renown collaboration with jeweller Shaun Leane on the spell binding white gold and diamond glove 'Contra Mundum', to her scent, her favourite Diptyque fig candle and her heelless shoes by Norikata Tatehana, the cabinet offers an insight into the world of this fascinating artist, writer and muse.
The launch yesterday evening was attended by the fashion elite. Guinness herself wore a Gareth Pugh Black Leather Cage Jacket which reflected the one which had also been installed in the cabinet. Pugh was present as well as Phillip Treacy, Anna Trevelyan and Atsuko Kudo. Noritaka Tatehana flew in from Japan to celebrate the launch, and Hamish Bowles and Bella Freud were also there to explore our newest venture. The musical contingent was represented by the stunning Shingai Shoniwa, the lead singer of the Noisettes, and producer Pat Donne.
If you weren't there last night, make your way to SHOWstudio's new premises at 19 Motcomb Street, Belgravia to see the SHOWcabinet for yourself. Daphne's installation will be open until 20th March. And most of the treasures on view are for sale. Don't miss it.
The wonderful Daphne Guinness is the first artist to participate in SHOWstudio's new gallery venture - the SHOWcabinet. Newly located in Belgravia's iconic Pantechnicon Building on Motcomb Street, the cabinet plays host to an array of items from Daphne's world and will be open from Thursday 21st February.
Over the past twelve years, SHOWstudio.com has collected and collated an array of wonderous and awe inspiring online content from filmmakers, writers and cultural figures. Through moving image, illustration, photography and the written word, the website provides a dynamic archive which reflects the endlessly changing creative sphere that it operates within and documents. We now intend to reflect this online wunderkammer within our physical space. The SHOWstudio SHOWcabinet manifests itself as part cabinet of curiosities, part commissioned installation space. Each month one artist or designer will be commissioned to create a piece which adheres to the dimensions of the central compartment of the cabinet. From tailoring to taxidermy, millinery to photography, the initiative provides a unique platform for artists from all disciplines.
Initially conceived of in Renaissance Europe, the curiosity cabinet or wunderkammer was originally a room rather than a piece of furniture. It housed objects and artefacts that defied easy categorisation and was often complete with exotic items from seemingly disparate and unrelated topics. It housed objects as diverse as historical relics, botanical specimens, works of art and scientific implements and presented a romantic vision of a dynamic and ever transforming world. The SHOWcabinet will embrace these characteristics and showcase the most innovative and diverse objects and artefacts from the worlds of fashion, art and beyond.
Our debut SHOWcabinet is centred around The Honorable Daphne Guinness. On the shelves Guinness launches her debut single 'Fatal Flaw'. Released as a limited edition 7-inch vinyl with unseen artwork by Nick Knight and penned by Guinness herself, this considered track affords unparalleled proximity to this elusive icon. Alongside the vinyl sits Guinness' armoured glove, anchoring her cabinet's central themes of beauty, brutality, revolution and romance. Created in collaboration with famed jeweler Shaun Leane, and titled 'Contra Mundum' or 'Against The World', this handcrafted, intricately made objet d’art took five years to complete and is perhaps one of the most technically advanced pieces of artisan jewellery in the world. A rare 17th century copy of Shakespeare’s tragedies is also unearthed next to a collection of Shelley's poetry and Pancha Tantra, a limited edition book of Walton Ford's illustrations. Other items, like a Diptyque Fig candle (her favourite), and the perfume Guinness created in cooperation with perfumer Antoine Lie and in collaboration with the house of Comme des Garcons add another dimension to the installation. Daphne’s love of the zodiac is also expressed with an arrangement of scorpions behind glass – precisely assembled by Guinness to represent her own star sign. Iconic designs created by Gareth Pugh and Norikata Tatehana also appropriately mingle in Guinness’ cabinet, representing the high fashion she has always championed.
The following cabinets feature leather designer Una Burke whose installation will revolve around prosthetics and couturier Iris Van Herpen who will create one of her signature water dresses in one of SHOWstudio's most ambitious LiveStudios to date.
The SHOWcabinet opens this week and visitors can see Daphne Guinness' installation from Thursday 21st February from 11am at 19 Motcomb Street, Belgravia, SW1X 8LB.