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  1. by Susanna Lau .

    Into the Desert

    It's hard not to be bowled over by Scott Sternberg's cinematic scope of vision and even though the clothes, as he always re-iterates, don't reinvent the wheel, there's still a whole thematic universe to buy into. I was thinking precisely of Jodorowsky's cult classic Holy Mountain and lo and behold, that was apparently a reference of Sternberg's. I definitely have no problem with being wind and sand swept so long as I'm wearing one of the long prairie dresses along with a thick sheepskin overcoat.

  2. by Susanna Lau .

    Urban Ski

    Felipe Oliveira Baptista turned out a sleek take on Lacoste's ski heritage (they dressed the national French ski team in 1966) and successfully took elements of activewear and made them wholly desirable, out of the context of a chalet.

  3. by Susanna Lau .

    Finding Print Feet

    Suno's Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis have emerged out of their initial African print trip to find their own unique niche in endearing print collaging. It was slightly less obvious this season what the overall theme was but perhaps, skirting away from a theme was done on purpose. Instead we picked up on personal highlights, which for me included a pair of goldfish print trousers, a folksy illustrated apron dress of a cottage scene and then a razzle dazzle jacket and dress in black tinsel and gem-like embroidery. Perhaps there needed to be more of an assertion of what makes Suno well... Suno and as a print fanatic, I'll relish seeing that happen in the future.  

  4. by Susanna Lau .

    Wrapped-up

    Rag & Bone have been on a retail high with buyers telling me that their pieces sell like hotcakes off the shop floor. Meanwhile their shows have been on a directional up for a few seasons now. For A/W 2012, they've settled down into an exercise of excellent outerwear options that girls in the audience wanted to take off the runway, and wear straight out in to the frigid New York cold. Shades of grey, burgundy and touches of bronze and several geometric patterns have winter wrapped up with the one bit of quirk falling upon a tapestry floral that closed the show.  No prizes for guessing which pieces I gravitated towards.  

  5. by Susanna Lau .

    Qing, Mao and Mae

     

    Give me a Chinese themed collection and I could analyse it to death until the cows come home. There was much to probe in to at Jason Wu - Mao's communist garb, The Last Emperor and Qing dynasty pomp and then the dissemination of the Chinese image in Hollywood. It wasn't a straightforward exercise of Chinoiserie and that can only be down to Wu's own Taiwanese background. Controversial, but I'm going to say this now - this complex pondering of how Chinese culture can be convincingly incorporated into fashion without it becoming a camp pagoda fest, can only come from someone who is ACTUALLY Chinese. Wu dug deep into his roots and came out with gold in parts, particularly in the opening looks of Mao green military chic. Sumptuous Qing costume embroidery were successfully transplanted to form fitting jackets and dresses. For this amount of food for thought on my part, I'll forgive Wu for the unleashing of the red tasselled hats, reminiscent of many a Chinese costume drama that my mum used to subject me to.

     

  6. by Susanna Lau .

    Working It

    Pamela Love can mine a reference and often find gold. Here she looks to the industrial settings of the Southwest USA and factory workers to dig up vaguely deco motifs to be worked into statement bangles and necklaces. Love's jewellery benefits from being loaded up in excess. Well, that's the wish anyway.

  7. by Susanna Lau .

    Som Growth

    Peter Som's clothing schtick is designing well-mannered, slightly cutesy but never overly quirky clothes, normally aided by a splattering of prints and a girlish demeanour. Som changed his tact this season however with a collection that latched on to the current wave of 1950s couture shape revival. Cue sculpted sleeves and a ton of peplums. There was also a street-appropriate elegance evident in the super light silk dresses that trailed off at the back as well as super slick leather trousers in bottle green and burgundy. There was nothing coquettish about any of this and this change-up got a unanimous nod of approval.

  8. by Susanna Lau .

    Weimar Girls

    Erickson Beamon dreamed up a cafe in 1930s Berlin where the girls are slightly deviant and the guys even more so. Vicki Beamon and Karen Erickson took the matter of dressing these Weimar guys and gals into their own hands by making clothing for the first time. The bias cut gowns of lace and chiffon may not have a life span beyond this mise en scene of a presentation but the jewellery that includes beautiful encrusted collars definitely stands strong.  

  9. by Susanna Lau .

    Changing of the winds

    Creatures of the Wind have just scooped up the runner's up prize of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund which means more eyeballs are on the Chicago based duo Shane Gabier and Chris Peters. Their A/W 2012 collection thankfully didn't undergo the sanitisation process that so often happens to New York raw talent, goaded by people to edit, reduce and in some cases, diminish. A mish-mash of textures was unified by their influence of the book The Secret Commonwealth of Elves, Fauns and Fairies. This otherworldly reference resulted in a real textural gamut - lime mohair tinged with pink lace, a folksy patchwork cape and as seen here, a bubble gum pink leather and striped knit ensemble - all set off with suitably odd but no less covetable shoes by Tabitha Simmons. It was a breath of fresh air (or wind?) at New York to see such daring clothes collaging.

    Comments

    1. amy.ireland
      16:18 27 Feb 2012
      Oh wow that coat is wonderful!
    Comment
  10. by Susanna Lau .

    Dream a little

    John Rocha troops on to his own beat with another collection that teeters between darkness and romanticism. The end result is always beautiful though despite the mass of raffia and deconstructed layers of fabric that shake about. Abbey Lee Kershaw once again opens and closes the show. You get the feeling she's a personal fan of Rocha's work, looking at her own darkly bohemian style.

  11. by Susanna Lau .

    Patternity Feet

     

    Much will be said about Craig Lawrence's evident refinement at his latest S/S 2012 collection where delicate shades of ivory, shell and rose-gold shimmered in slinky silhouettes. To complement, Lawrence worked with cult site Patternity on the hosiery that was stretched over the shoes or worn as pop socks here.

     

  12. by Susanna Lau .

    Paisley Power

    Paisley, William Morris florals and anything that look like it may have come from a European 1860s drawing room wall was already starting to seep in last season and into resort but for S/S 2012, these 'heritage' prints have come into full bloom. Clements Ribeiro know a thing or two about print making and these florals looking nothing short of beautiful as well as being delicate.  

     

  13. by Susanna Lau .

    Knuckle Duster

    You can always count on Dominic Jones for some 'fi-ERCE' jewellery that might scrape some skin off but this new knuckle duster sees Jones using more semi-precious stones in the form of this straw quartz ring where the lines in the stone are naturally formed.

  14. by Susanna Lau .

    Pleats Please

    Felicity Brown wasn't present at her own presentation as she was about to give birth but hopefully she got the memo that her collection looked marvellous at the Royal Opera House. Less frou-frou and more refined than previous collections, S/S 2012 still showcases Brown's textiles handiwork with these hand-cut strips of silk jersey that are stretched and placed strategically on the gowns.

  15. by Susanna Lau .

    Loaner or Traifer?

    What hybrid word can we come up with for these loafers slash trainers as seen at J.W. Anderson's stupendous show, made in collaboration with Aldo. The Canadian mass shoe brand have gone all out with their collaborations this season and I hope these slightly bizarrely riffed shoes that come off the back sportswear's permeation of the NY collections, get produced.  

  16. by Susanna Lau .

    House of Holland goes West

    There was much to admire at HoH in addition to the usual japes. For one, there was plenty of Cher a la Clueless checks rendered in a palette of colours that straddled between pastel and bright. Underneath it all though were some latex bras and boy shorts in collaboration with Kim West. Another latex name to add to the list that includes Atsuko Kudo and House of Harlow (maker of THOSE scalloped skirts at Marc Jacobs A/W 2011).

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