Live Now Live Fashion Film Shoot

09:45 - 20:00 on September 2 2014 BST

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  1. by Susanna Lau .

    Jacket Collector
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    I now have two Krystrof Strozyna jackets and they never seem to fail to garner positive comments with regards to their cut. Strozyna knows he's on to a winner so his S/S 2012 collection featured a jacket established in his earlier work in a fetching shade of pistachio green.  I feel jacket number three coming on….

  2. by Susanna Lau .

    Postle's Posse

    Jenny Postle was another 2011 CSM MA graduate on the Vauxhall Fashion Scout block but she has teamed up with fellow textiles course graduate Sam Leutton to form Leutton Postle and together, their collection at the Merit Award show continued on from where the MA collection left off. Knitting and weaving with unusual materials and a patchwork mishmash of colour and texture created striking pieces. I'd love to see Postle work on textiles experimentation within a house or a label or to push her work to more refined shapes.

  3. by Susanna Lau .

    Taxi Driver
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

     

    Louise Amstrup switched up to a smaller presentation format condensing her message down to nine looks which was far more effective. Her big story was the prints derived from photographs of New York, inspired by ideals of the Big Apple and films like Taxi Driver. They manifest as both literal and abstracted on Amstrup's cool n' collected separates. Kudos too to the collaborations with Finsk for the architectural colour-blocked wedges and Hannah Martin for the enamel plated jewellery.  

     

  4. by Susanna Lau .

    Under The Sea
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    Manuela Dack grew up in the Carribean and looked to her hometown for inspiration for her latest delicate yet ornate S/S 2012 collection. She's teamed up with Jenny King who does all the embroidery for designers like Erdem, to apply this squid onto a pale green skirt with beading detail. Not sure whether I want to eat it or wear it...

  5. by Susanna Lau .

    English Debut
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    Phoebe English' use of knitted hair in her MA collection at Central Saint Martins may have been a bit on the heavy-handed side for me, but these heavily pleated canvas pieces from her collection shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout's Ones to Watch definitely made a stronger impact. Deliberately fraying at the sides, the recollection of 16th century ruffs or Egyptian papyrus textures, the collection showed English as someone promising to look out for.  

  6. by Susanna Lau .

    Sister Sister
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    Sibling went to the pub last season and this time takes a walk down the British seaside pier for the graphics and motifs of their new Sister by Sibling line for us girls to get excited about. I'll still be getting stuck into the menswear stuff but Sister provides some unabashed cotton candy pink for me to OD on.

  7. by Susanna Lau .

    Hit That Raeburn Note
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    I might have told Christopher Raeburn off for having to go all the way to Museum of London had he not put on such a rich and multi-media filled presentation. We had a film. We had an interactive display where hitting jackets on a rail produced sound and LED light symbols on the wall (I stayed there for a good five minutes looking like a crazy person hitting these jackets). None of that distracted us from the presentation of the collection itself, with his nylon windcheater fabrics as a rainbow backdrop. It was more of the same fare from Raeburn but that sort of consistency works for him as well as his stockists. I know where I'll be getting my waterproof gear from

  8. by Susanna Lau .

    Sublime Staples
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    The design duo Palmer Harding wowed the panel at NewGen with their focused concept of white shirts that employs structural detailing that some will recognise from Matthew Harding's 2010 CSM MA collection. His partner Levi Palmer brings his menswear prowess to the table by offering an equally weighted mens and womens collection with options ranging from the deceptively simple to the visibly complex. 

  9. by Susanna Lau .

    bStore Gal
    Susanna Lau's view of London S/S 2012

    Chloe Struyk joins the bStore team to refresh their womenswear offering and she's loosened the look by playing with African-inspired prints that she has designed herself as well as revelling in a more feminine aesthetic that should put bStore's womenswear on par with their successful mens line.

    Comments

    1. Jailen
      00:27 27 Oct 2011
      Stellar work there everyone. I'll keep on readnig.
    Comment
  10. by Susanna Lau .

    Daytime Metallics
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    My New York Fashion Week is now unfortunately done but it ended on a strangely high note - at Diesel Black Gold, of all places. Sophia Kokosalaki's aesthetic has been somewhat swallowed up since joining the Italian superbrand but today, she latched onto a relevant mix of metallics and preppy where printed foil (derived from a smashed mirror) was mixed with oxford shirts.  It's heavily reliant on styling of course but it's certainly a covetable vision for Diesel Black Gold which has sometimes relied too heavily on clubby dresses. 

  11. by Susanna Lau .

    Sleeping Beauty
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

     

    S/S 2012 makes Rodarte's 'pretty' oeuvre official. The Mulleavy sisters have progressively softened their aesthetic over the past few seasons and this one goes into even more saccharine territory - from Van Gogh's sunflower paintings and starry nights to dresses fit for a Disney princess to swish around in. It of course pleases me to no end that Sleeping Beauty's soundtrack concluded the show. I wonder what the unlikely front row make up of Taylor Swift and Solange and Beyonce Knowles took from it all...

     

  12. by Susanna Lau .

    To The Point
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    I'm missing Marc, the mainline (grrr… yes, I'm part of the fuming English lot….) but it did feel like we were about to see the big tamale at his Marc by Marc Jacobs show as it started bang on time with the usual scramble for seats. Jacobs simplified things, paring everything right down to a singular shot of neon coral or a spare frilled peplum on a skirt. It felt very much like a reverb of what has just gone before us in S/S 2011 but for the Marc by Marc Jacobs girl, it's definitely a newly pared back and less cutesy look.

  13. by Susanna Lau .

    Walk Like An Egyptian
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    Michael Angel has downgraded from flashy shows and for some, flashy prints to presenting more subtle collections in low key situs. The downgrade is a good call though as he lets his fabric choices do the talking in this collection inspired by his mother's Egyptian roots. John William Waterhouse's painting of Cleopatra is distorted on this sleeveless trench but that's about as literal as it gets as he explores the surfaces of ancient ruins through pre-pleated fabrics and heavily texturised cottons.

  14. by Susanna Lau .

    J. Crew Coming At Us
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    I wouldn't have cared about J. Crew a year ago but the much-loved American preppy chain is coming to the UK through e-commerce (launching today) and it continues to be a firm favourite with the NY fashion crowd for their no-nonsense but slightly trend-driven pieces. S/S 2012 is bright and juicy much like the rest of the NY shows with sequins and shimmer that are made casual with the pairing of a denim shirt.

  15. by Susanna Lau .

    Cocktail Hour
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    I wanted to almost kiss Thom Browne after his presentation which was long but well worth the time to see a very elegant bygone soiree play out. His models play the roles of hostess, guests and tableaux characters well whilst showcasing Browne's madcap way with piling on the layers, all struck with his signature tricolore palette and detailing. How does a string of rubber ducks look elegant? When paired with a raised shoulder cocoon cape of course that hugged the body from knees up. There's something a little bit intentionally sinister about the whole set-up where ladies appear to have their necks disappearing into silhouettes. From a positive perspective, perhaps it's a nod to those fabulous ladies that grace blogs like Advanced Style.

  16. by Susanna Lau .

    Charitable
    Susanna Lau's view of New York S/S 2012

    There was one point at the Donna Karan show when I felt I was at a charity concert what with the soundtrack and indeed, the roots of this collection was born from a visit to Haiti, post-earthquake. Visibly, people will read into it as Africana but beyond the surface detailing, it's all very much business as usual at Karan with most of the collection imbued with her recognisable pragmatic traits.

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