1. by Susanna Lau .

    Brooke's Brains

    Australian-born knitwear designer Brooke Roberts has once again come up with a brain scan inspired collection, taking full advantage of her day job as an NHS x-ray assistant. Her collection is on exhibition at ONOFF and definitely needs to be seen in person to see where the brain scan sections have been delicately layered with a super fine gauzey knit.

  2. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Nile knit action

    A 1970's take on a 1920's exploration of a murder mystery in Egypt sends knitwear label, Cooperative Designs into a themed presentation at the Groucho Club that had a diverse set of models slinking around with martinis, perspex glasses as props and ACTUALLY having fun and smiling. The knitwear, whilst still being within the graphic Bauhaus-era that Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann have mined over the past few seasons is uplified with colours and results in a fresh take on what I thought was a pretty 'done' decade.

  3. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Ward Warning

    SHOWstudio readers meet Kirsty Ward. Kirsty Ward meet SHOWstudio readers. I was quite taken with CSM MA graduate collection which combines pastel textures, diaphanous interloping structures all worked in with her jewellery which she has been developing since working with another young gun David Longshaw. Ward's S/S 11 collection is now on exhibition at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

  4. by Susanna Lau .

    Susanna Lau: Acne

    You'd think Acne would want to make a big rollocking show with their first proper on-schedule outing at London Fashion Week but instead, they kept it slow and steady with a very intimate salon-style presentation in Kensington Palace.

    Equally the clothes slinked about with authority but without making a huge noise hence why Jonny Johansson talked of a clean slate in this collection free of references. What kept it personal were the collaborative efforts with a female tattoo artist that inspired the embossed leather used in several instances.

  5. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Giles

    An exuberant end to a packed packed day where my brains are possibly spilling over with neon, florals, hot pink and hot shoes. Giles returned to London after a two season jaunt to Paris and now currently holds the prize for best LFW finale yet with all the girls (and an extraordinarily looking Veruschka) marching out onto the three floor balconies within the Clerkenwell warehouse space in all their rave kids meets pretty n'prim ensembles.

  6. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Meadham Kirchhoff

    Nicholas Kirkwood being appointed sole director of Pollini, the Italian label which now plans to concentrate purely on accessories has meant that Kirkwood has notched up a few more collaborations this season. These ones at Meadham Kirchhoff are hopefully going to land on my feet - in all five colourways if possible.

  7. by Susanna Lau .

    Poolside Beginnings

    Anthony Vaccarello begins proceedings in Paris and like a fresh breath of air, eschewing any notable trends and paving his own spliced and bare looks where there's an art in presenting a lack of fabric. This wasn't bare necessities for the sake of sizzle - look beneath the silk jersey, printed silks (hinting at tropical as opposed to overstating it...) and wispy tulle and encased are metal structures controlling the drape as well as creating sexy yet severe collars at the neck.

  8. by Susanna Lau .

    Tradition Undone

    Nicolas Andreas Taralis has been easing himself back into the own-name fashion game after a stint at Cerruti and for S/S 11, it was admittedly a continuation of the last collection - an exploration of traditional garments come undone and exposed in V-shaped open backs, square mesh panelling, suggestive suspender straps hanging off tees and more literal forms of exposure as seen here.

  9. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Forever Minimal

    Minimalist tracts in designers may come and go in reactions to seasons but for some it's intrinsic to work in quiet codes that make maximum impact. Dusan Paunovic has been working in this way for a few seasons now and for S/S 2011, he balances hushed colours with just the right amount of looseness.

  10. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Eastern Rising

    Damir Doma's second womenswear collection once again makes that separation from his more-established menswear with a vibrant yellow that referenced Buddhist robes. Doma also surprisingly used the waist as emphasis, with his own raw leather versions of a corset.

  11. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Marani Palette

    Alberto Marani has been impressing quietly on the presentation circuit of Paris Fashion Week with his concise collections that exploit his skills in technical knitwear. This season, he looked at photographs of Zwelethu Mthethwa as well as the artwork of Francis Upritchard for inspiration for the colours as well as the lookbook shot by Mel Bles.

  12. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Sweet Sweet Sacai

    Sacai is one of those labels you know exists but don't know a whole lot about other than they make some of the most covetable knitwear in the season - the sort of stuff you'll wear and over like this cable knit flared tee with a sheer skirt trimmed with a thick garbadine.

  13. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Carven's School Trip

    Carven has been growing from season to season and for S/S 2011 creative director Guillaume Henry imagined a girl wandering through the Louvre and stumbling upon ancient images. Except whilst wandering she put on a polo shirt with built in body/suspender straps as well as a pair of olive bloomer fronted poofy skirt. Which basically ticks my boxes for my dream Brownie's uniform (I never got to be in Brownie's... this is me atoning for my loss).


    1. Hiroshi
      21:23 20 Oct 2012
      I'd like to hear what you think of the Monette/Bear book. I've read and liked Monette's Melusine and have been eyeing a clpoue hard-to-find Bear books (mainly New Amsterdam.)Like the sidebar updates. Helps when I'm snooping around to see what others are reading.
  14. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Calla Happy

    Calla Haynes, a nominee of this year's ANDAM award stepped it up to do a presentation which showcased her various strands of prints inspired by female artists. I think I was trying to be all smart and clever by likening this to a cubist painting but in actual fact, it's inspired by Niki di Sainte Phalle's mosaic garden in Tuscany.

  15. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Head full of straw

    Issey Miyake's show had a brief interlude where wood grain surfaces were explored but more importantly gave ma a hat option made out of straw but shaped like a thirties cloche hat. I loves me a good cloche and this one isn't shabby at all.

  16. by Susanna Lau .

    SUSANNA LAU: Cheer for Cerruti

    Richard Nicoll for Cerruti's second collection was presented discreetly and beautifully with silhouettes accompanied by moving lookbook clips shot by Will Davidson (he also shot a longer 'proper' fashion film for the collection). Chevron inspired by the 40s costume designer Adrian was a main motif as well as plays with sheer, shirting and an elegance that makes this collection distinct from his own, a separation that will serve him well.

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