If you thought the recent flirtation with 80s pop culture was a fleeting phase (with every new band looking and sounding like a second-rate Jam, Specials or Siouxie and the Banshees and rumours of Pam Hogg, Bodymap and Rifat Ozbek revivals on heavy rotation), tonight's Fashion East saw it developed into a full-blown cultural occupation. Particularly Marios Schwab, who opened the esteemed 'new talent' showcase that is now into its tenth season, demonstrated the renewed affection for the hard-bodied glamour of designers such as Azzedine Alaïa or Thierry Mugler. With their contour-hugging tailoring and metal trims, these garments suggested predatory women belonging to the photography of Herb Ritts or mid-to-late 80s clubland. The question for Gareth Pugh, whose showstopping, Baroque performance wowed the crowds for a second season running (with Casey Spooner modelling an electrically-lit dress as a finalé), is what his clothes mean outside the context of clubs and fashion shows. Visual comparisons to the costumes of Leigh Bowery and fetishwear of the House of Harlot abound, of course, but what is perhaps most significant is how hungry the fashion press are for the horror, camp and sheer entertainment of Pugh's theatre of fashion.
If you've been reading the fashion press this week, you'll have seen them go crazy for the news of the swan dress, which is currently sitting at a fantastic £6,200 (and there's still three days to go)! If you can't quite stump up that kind of cash, there are still real bargains to be had: brand new Stella McCartney over-the-knee boots from the current collection at only £218, vintage Viktor & Rolf for £5.50, seamed stockings worn by Dita Von Teese for £10.50 and Lily Cole's shirt for 99p! You can now bid directly from the AUCTION section of the site, so go on: cough up for fashion!
Multimedia artist Daniel Brown has been working on a series of interactive images as the final –‘Dress Me Down’– part of this project. Featuring Liberty Ross in various states of undress, the footage used features the chosen favourites taken from each of Jonathan Kaye’s nine key Autumn fashion looks. SHOWstudio viewers shaped each look over the three-day live styling event last May, and nine were chosen out of the forty+ created and captured in front of our webcams.
As the Autumn-Winter season kicks into gear, the nine looks will be released onto the site in three sets of three, first group up comprises Ecclesiastical, Tomboy and Military, fashioned through the chatroom by ‘jasnar’, ‘kitty’ and ‘gypsy’. As a clue to how our guest stylists came upon their looks, original transcripts from the chatroom are now also being posted to this project.
Inspired by stripping girls on saucy novelty pens, these have been created in Danny’s favoured Macromedia Director program, for which you’ll need the shockwave plug-in. Most of you should have this plug-in if you’ve been watching our other interactive work in recent years. As we’re particularly titillated by the results, work is now underway to create special versions that can be downloaded to compatible mobile phones (trans. Cell phones). We expect these to be ready as the final three interactives hit the site in early October. More news to be posted as it happens. For now, enjoy the show…
Inteviewing for Unit F's Contemporary Fashion Archive, Diane Pernet came by first thing. We exchanged 'blog portraits': here she is, adjusting her camera phone.
Only two more days to bid for a unique piece of fashion history! Bjork's swan dress is currently sits at a fantastic 6,000GBP. If you can't quite stump up that kind of cash, there are still real bargains to be had: brand new Stella McCartney over-the-knee boots from the current collection at only 218GBP, vintage Viktor & Rolf for 10.70GBP, seamed stockings worn by Dita Von Teese for 15GBP and Lily Cole's shirt for 99p! You can now bid directly from the AUCTION section of the site, so go on: cough up for fashion!
Only a few hours to bid on items in our online charity fashion auction. Of course seasoned eBay'ers will hold off bidding until the eleventh hour, but is that really in the spirit of charity? Don't forget you need an eBay account to bid, so if you've just been window shopping be sure to set one up if you plan to grab a bargain at the last minute.
The auction ended last night at eight o'clock, as over one hundred and eighty items finally went under the eBay hammer. Word from Oxfam is that the sale has raised a magnificent total of more than £19,000!!! You generous people. To see what each lot went for, check the AUCTION section of the project.
Now that all the fabulous clothes are flying off to their new owners, we're left feeling a little bereft and curious about their new destinations. So we've devised an ingenious way of keeping track. A letter will accompany each lot, explaining the provenance of the garment (and the relevance of the initial submissions form you all filled in) and urging new owners to send us a picture of the item in its new home. These will be pubished on the site as we receive them. See excerpt:
To now complete the story of these clothes, we ask that you send a picture of yourself wearing or in possession of the garment, to be published on the SHOWstudio website. Please include your name and location.
e-mail your pictures to:
Or post them to (but we cannot return your prints):
Bring and Buy Pictures
25-31 Ironmonger Row
E-mail Received from Oxfam:
I just wanted to update everyone on how the auction went, and most importantly to say THANK YOU! to all of you who helped and contributed, especially all at SHOWstudio, who decided to give the clothes to Oxfam in the first place.
So, the total selling price from the auction was £19,200!
I've estimated that the total costs of the auction will be around £4,000 - this includes everyone's time, ebay/PayPal fees, delivery, packaging etc. So a profit of £15,000, along with at least 43 international press articles in the build up to the auction - this is fantastic.
The star item - the Björk dress - actually went down in price from £6,300 to £5,350 (after a genuine bidder retracted their bid and a rogue bidder was pulled from the auction). It was the Bjork dress that got us a lot of
the PR - it's also Oxfam's highest ever Ebay sale! It also got over 300 watchers (getting us on the Ebay Pulse site), with 15,000 hits - so it's broken all of our records.
Other star sellers included:
Although all the items are bargains for those who bought them - the Matthew Williamson dress going for £87 was probably the best deal. The most popular designer/donor (excluding Björk) though has to be LA based Rick Owens, whose 3 donations sold for nearly £1,200!
Now comes the trick of collecting all of the money and distributing all of the items - hopefully nearly all of the 170 customers will be happy with their new wardrobe additions.
Thanks to all again,
Oxfam works with others to find lasting solutions to poverty and suffering.
Oxfam GB is a member of Oxfam International, a company limited by guarantee and registered in England No. 612172.
Registered office: Oxfam House, John Smith Drive, Cowley, Oxford, OX4 2JY
Registered charity No. 202918.
Berliners, click here to see who's on your PSP AMAZE ME panel. Select a brief and visit our micro-studio, hosted by Apartment, between 19 OCT - 16 NOV for your chance to win critical acclaim and a hand-held games console.
Whilst the forum has been developing its discussion on US documentary film-maker Jenny Livingston's excellent 'Paris is Burning' from the late 1980s, this library copy of an abridged version (for a British documentary series called Arena) was unearthed for me at the London College of Fashion. Livingston's film remains an important reference point for the history of the ballroom community. assume vivid astro focus' latest set of video clips for cheapcream show a contemporary glimpse into the competitive world of voguing balls. Clips were all taken at Clubhouse NYC last year and demostrate how the movement has kept very much alive and up-to-date within its ever evolving yet tradition-setting scene. See the runway category being performed - a popular tradition of the ballroom scene in which contestants are judged on the quality and originality of their walk, pivoting and turns as well as their chosen outfits.
An off-site meeting was held last night to discuss work on a great new project that launches in the middle of next month, devoted to fashion film. The ability to show the moving garment was one of the many reasons Nick set up SHOWstudio - nearly five years ago! - and we collectively feel that this potential is yet to be exploited fully. Thus we have invited many of the most prominent photographers, art directors, hair and make-up artists and models etc. in the industry to make a 30 second short that features a garment in motion, as the fashion designer intends us to experience their work. One film will screen each weekday, with a weekly round-up at weekends and collectively, they will act as a 'Collections Story' for the late Autumn/Winter '05-6 season. We've had a brilliant response and it looks like the project could run until well into December at this rate! You can tell I'm dying to mention names (BIG ones!!) can't you, but more of that later...
One thing we've been musing is how to get you, the viewer involved. It's been suggested that, given all the amazing films and animations we receive at SHOWstudio HQ, there are plenty of you out there that would like to show off your editing ideas and skills. We're thinking of offering up some footage that you could edit throughout the run of the 'Moving Fashion' films and post on the site at the end of the project. The task for us, though, is to find something inspiring for you to work with.
The second set of Daniel Brown's interactives have been posted. Featuring cutting edge Autumn/Winter fashion (Rochas, Roksanda Ilincic and Stella McCartney amongst many others) these three outfits were styled by "Peter King', 'Squirrel' and 'Chester' in their 15 minutes of fame in the live chatroom. A further three are due next week, and work is underway to create special versions for mobile phones.
After all the hard work we put into setting up the AMAZE ME pod in Dover Street Market it seems a shame to take it down... so we're not. So if you haven't already been down consider this your second chance to impress one of the six judges and win win win!
Woman bearing trademark 'rollmop' coiffure works the current 'volume' trend in lavish room full of stovepipe jeans and Chanel bags. Where could I be, dear reader? Why, it's Paris fashion week and you've got 8 days of intermittent blog entries comin' at ya. Rick Owens started my PFW off with a beaut.
After all the exquisite, porcelain-coloured leather and signature 'bat's wings' fronds in Rick Owens', Yohji Yamamoto's show was a more solid affair (literally). Lots of black and white suiting that we know and love; navy velvet too. It was amazing to see his architectonic tailoring turned towards the street, though, will a full section devoted to top-to-toe camouflage. Even more so, the crazy dinosaur-era theme that ran throughout: zig-zag Stegosaurus spikes flapping out from models' spines and in this finalé piece, elicitly captured backstage, a jaggy, traililing tail!
Miss Cole takes a moment out of the Pat 'n Eugene dreamteam's 'prehistoric' hair and make-up session to discuss the editing of her film for our forthcoming 'Moving Fashion' project.