Richard Mortimer & Brix Smith-Start comment on Comme des Garçons
Richard Mortimer and Brix Smith-Start share their thoughts on the Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2013 show in a soundbite taken straight after the live panel discussion.
Richard Mortimer and Brix Smith-Start share their thoughts on the Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2013 show in a soundbite taken straight after the live panel discussion.
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Watch the Comme des Garçons live panel discussion. Lou Stoppard is joined by GQ's editor-at-large Princess Julia, Ponystep's Richard Mortimer and Start London's co-founder Brix Smith-Start. Don't miss this exciting debate!
Putting pencil to paper, our resident illustrator Jowy Maasdamme continues to add to our holistic collections coverage with her personal interpretation of the Paris shows.
Suggesting the show’s silhouettes and offering a taste of its technical textures, Maasdamme’s illustrations are a visual shorthand for Alexander Wang’s debut Balenciaga show. The luxury label’s instantly recognisable curve is implied in Maasdamme’s bold black blocks. Likewise, Wang’s celebrated cracked leather pieces are conjured in the figures’ fragmented skin.
Turning her hand to Rick Owens’ show, Maasdamme focused in on the American designer’s high collars and voluminous hair for Autumn/Winter 2013. As our Paris reporter Kiki Georgiou commented in her show review, ‘To say that the models’ hair was windswept does not even come close to covering it. They looked as if they’d just emerged from a wind tunnel but Owens’ girls are fierce, they can handle that.’ With chiseled cheekbones and dangerously dark eyes, Maasdamme’s figure embodies Rick Owens’ powerful vision.
Alber Elbaz’s beetle print and bug brooches take a nightmarish turn in Maasdamme’s illustration of Lanvin’s elegant show. Creepy-crawlies scuttle across her pointy fingered figure, grouping together on its wispy haired head.
Last night the wonderful Oriole Cullen popped into SHOWstudio to take part in our Lanvin live panel discussion. A real bank of fashion history, she noted that Alber Elbaz's incredible beetle print could have been a modern interpretation of a traditional technique that saw beetle shells embroidered onto opulent evening wear. Look at this incredible image she's just sent through!
For more fascinating insights review our on-demand Lanvin live panel now!
Fallen for Iris Van Herpen's luminous descriptions of the spaces between . Tonal drawings . Iridescent prismic magic.
Living in the limelight
Ipads in the changing room...
At 17:30 GMT on Saturday 2 March 2013 tune in for the Comme des Garçons live panel discussion.
Joining chairwoman Lou Stoppard in the studio will be GQ Style’s editor-at-large Princess Julia. Additionally, Richard Mortimer, the entrepreneur behind the cult London club BoomBox and editor-in-chief of Ponystep, will be offering a contemporary and informed take on the Japanese label. Finally, co-founder of Start London boutiques Brix Smith-Start will bring her knowledge, and personal experiences as a pioneer of avant-garde design, to the discussion table.
Tune in for the live running commentary on an eagerly anticipated Comme des Garçons show.
Gareth Pugh's show in boarded up palais - stucco and chandeliers and heartbreak. A war zone of unrequited love - bare branches scribbled like nerve endings across mourning grey and black. Austere, febrile passionate - just brilliant!
There were some interesting and engaging debates on the Gareth Pugh live panel discussion with big questions being raised by the enthusiastic panelists.
Lou Stoppard was joined by curator Norman Rosenthal, fashion commentator Caryn Franklin, head of digital at Matthew Williamson Rosanna Falconer and VICE UK's fashion editor Daryoush Haj-Najafi. Although the debates were heated and the dialogue entertaining, there was no doubt that everybody was a fan of Pugh's aesthetic confidence and avant-garde treatment to house hold black bags.
Whilst hand-painted leather jackets were absent from Claire Barrow’s Autumn/Winter 2013 Fashion East show, these are what the young designer is best known for. Rediscover her signature DIY punk aesthetic in Petal, a fashion film from her residency at SHOWstudio.
In November 2012 Barrow created a bespoke leather jacket exclusively for SHOWstudio's LiveStudio to coincide with Nick Knight's Flora exhibition. The exhibition featured botanical prints and pioneering floral still lifes. For Barrow's LiveStudio she added acrylic roses, leaves and falling petals across a cropped leather jacket. The ten minute film provides an intimate insight into Barrow’s technique and shows Barrow discussing what roses symoblise for her and why the jacket reminds her of a gravestone for the single rose that inspired Petal. The LiveStudio also cameos The Horrors’ frontman, Faris Badwan, who models Barrow's biker in a shoot by Nick Knight.
The Flora project included two other craft-centric LiveStudios, one with milliner Piers Atkinson and the other with lingerie couturier Carine Gilson. Each LiveStudio created hand-made one-off pieces which are available to buy from SHOWstudio Shop.
Karl's Lagerfeld store opening. Monochrome rammed with cameras.
Creative director of Cutler & Gross, Monica Chong, revelas her thoughts on the Dior show straight after our live panel discussion.
Watch Chong above now!
Stylist and fashion editor, Verity Parker, revelas her thoughts on the Dior show straight after our live panel discussion.
Watch Parker above now!
Raf Simons’ reign at Christian Dior continues with his second ready-to-wear collection since taking the helm at the Parisian powerhouse in April 2012. As the Autumn/Winter 2013 show streams live on Friday 1 March, join our editor Lou Stoppard and expert guests for a live panel discussion at 13:30 GMT.
Assisting Stoppard in her evaluation of the show will be fashion editor and stylist Verity Parker, casting director Jess Hallett and Monica Chong, the creative director of Cutler and Gross, who will make her live panel discussion debut.
Revisit the on demand footage of our ‘Vogue On’ Book Club to hear journalist Charlotte Sinclair talk about the book she penned on the creator of the New Look himself. If the discussion whets your appetite for more Dior, visit the SHOWstudio shop where Sinclair’s book is available to buy now.
Much has been made of how Simons is combining his modernist aesthetic with the traditional codes of Dior. Tune in at 13:30 GMT on Friday 1 March 2013 to uncover the latest instalment in Dior's story!
Textile and fashion curator at the V&A Oriole Cullen responds to the Lanvin Autumn/Winter 2013 show, sharing her view on Alber Elbez's collection for the Parisiennne label. See if you agree with her opinion expressed in the clip above!