1. by Penny Martin .

    Margiela Exposes His Origins

    You might feel you now know what's going to be in the shops come January (lots of white, lots of lace etc.). But if you want to know what designers will be doing in three seasons' time, you need look no further than Martin Margiela, who has been emulated by nearly everyone this week. So you'd better get your sewing machine out and run yourself up an elegant dress. Don't think of cutting it from the roll of fabric it's made from, though. These were also propped up on the trolleys that were wheeled, Sisyphus-like, around the Stade de France tonight. Brilliant.

  2. by Penny Martin .

    McQueen Supports Kate Moss

    Mmm, short, aren't they? These Alaia-esque numbers came out to the thumping sound of Susie Quatro and Tina Turner, baring a buttock or two as they swished along, fast. Not as fast as Alexander McQueen doing his lap of honour, wearing a 'we love you Kate' T-shirt.

  3. by Penny Martin .

    Lutz of Style

    It won't suprise you to learn that the soundtrack was 'Goldfinger'. The drag-queen performed a stylish mime of the said Bond theme as the fashion equivalent of 80s dance troupe Hot Gossip performed ironic 'interpretations'. All this was in danger of detracting from the clothes parading down the centre of the stage...were they not also stylish in a quiet sort of a way.

  4. by Penny Martin .

    Reading From the Same Song-Sheet at John Galliano

    With more than a nod to the forthcoming Arbus retrospective at the V&A, these 'mature twins' were one of the more subtle pairs modelling the John Galliano mens and womenswear that came down the catwalk tonight (fat women, tall men, toyboys, gay divorcees and many other 'unusual types' were also present and correct). Though, from the mawkish inclining of heads and patronising applauding the dwarf bride and groom displayed among the audience, it was unclear whether the spectators fully understood or embraced the 'everyboy's free' mantra expressed in the accompanying music.

  5. by Penny Martin .

    Balenciaga Appointment

    It's rare for individual garments to live up to rave reviews like the ones Balenciaga has recieved this season. But in the case of these dresses, the Spring/Summer collection actually *surpasses* all the effusive praise lavished upon it by the fashion press. The house is shrewd in being transparent about its use of history: these are reworked versions of a 1960s dress sourced from the redoubtable Balenciaga archive. To prove it, an exact copy hangs next to the new pieces. The paradox is that the new ones appear modern through their use of historical construction techniques and light-faded fabrics, reminiscent of late 18th and early 19th century dress. The mystery is how they keep it so cool and unfanciful.

  6. by Penny Martin .

    Lanvin Turns a Corner

    Not a pearl in sight! Tonight Alber Elbaz served up a Lanvin collection that was perhaps his most modern, probably the least Bourgeois and certainly the most likely to appeal to a younger market. Watch those gorgeous shift-dresses fly come January...

  7. by Penny Martin .

    3rd Annual TOKION Creativity Now Conference

    We are working like mad to get the new 'Moving Fashion' programme launched at the end of this week: more of that later. Deadlines are tight not least because I am flying out on Thursday to 'moderate' at the 3rd Annual TOKION Creativity Now conference, held at the Great Hall of The Cooper Union in New York this weekend. SHOWstudio presented last year and it was a very interesting mix of keynote speakers and panels on the key themes represented by the magazine (music, art, fashion, design, film, etc.).

    Personally, I'm convening a panel on 'Design and Grace', featuring Julie Verhoeven, Laurent Fetis, Elisabeth Arkhipoff and Jeremy Blake, but other sessions include: Antony from Antony & the Johnsons, William Eggleston, Todd Haynes, Richard Prince, Stephen Shore and Jonathan Caouette (Tarnation).

    If you're coming, be sure to identify yourself!

  8. by Ross Phillips .

    Antwerp Mk2

    After an unscheduled stop, and a night spent sensing the atmosphere and experiencing the comfort at Slapen Enzo, I have returned. Sharmin Nordien and I flew out yesterday to set up the pod in a new location in Antwerp, the Fashion Museum. Everything was running smoothly until we plugged in the mic to find out it wasn't working, a quick call to FedEx and the aforementioned stopover and all is well. Residents of Antwerp now have another 3 weeks to pull out all the stops and impress the judges on our Belgian panel. Go go go!

  9. Posted .

    Fashion films project launches tomorrow!

    After several mysterious blog entries on the subject, we can now provide details on the amazing new fashion film project to which we have been alluding. The link below leads to a project description document (for internal use) that details how from tomorrow, we will be screening 30 seconds of moving fashion by a different member of the fashion community (photographers, models, art directors, hair and make-up artists, designers) each day. Of course, this is not final, but it gives some sense of what the project will consist of.

    We have received such great goodwill to this project that it looks like the films will run well into December. To give you at taste of the first fortnight, however, practitioners include: Steven Klein, Liz Collins, Glen Luchford, Alice Hawkins, Tim Walker, Lily Cole, Sølve Sundsbø and more!!

    There is much to say, but we risk repeating the material inside the document, so have a good read here. Penny Martin interviewed Nick Knight about his motivations behind Moving Fashion yesterday. A transcript and recording of their chat will join the project as soon as it is ready.


    1. Zeina
      05:58 9 Jan 2013
      The whole installation ralely worked in a auspicious way. The real wall, those windows up high, the odd parachute sculptures, the lovely laptop mini film, The way we all had to come together to look in the window of the van, the engine running,the coming together of family and friends and city officials and the powerfully simple time line that drew it all together (I had the pleasure of handing out) it worked for me.I think the waist shirt workers would have been very proud. In fact I felt them there.falling and rising.
  10. by Christabel Stewart .

    Frankfurst Music Salon

    Curators Max Hollein and Mattias Ulrich recently curated a lively seven night programme of concerts at the Schirn Kunsthalle Frankfurt. TRANSMISSIONS wasn't present live to film it, but had access to examples of the music being played, posted here for listening. This image of Rodney Graham (sourced from a great blog: shows the artist immersed in a room of salon-hung guitars which provides perfect pictorial shorthand for the meeting of artistic and musical interests that the artist-as-musician events embodied.

  11. by Penny Martin .

    Project Launches with exclusive film by Glen Luchford!!

    Model Gemma Ward, plunged into a tank of water, is the star of the first of our MOVING FASHION thirty second films. Chosen for his key role in shaping what contemporary fashion looks like, photographer Glen Luchford responds to the simple SHOWstudio brief of creating 30 seconds of motion image featuring a garment from the Autumn/Winter '05-06.

    Never intended as definitive statements or exhibition pieces, the value of this experimental series of short film will be in watching the way in which different members of the fashion community respond to the same stimulus of making fashion move: just like the designer always intended. Collectively, they will act as an alternative 'collections story' for the current fashion season.


    1. Marc
      04:34 9 Jan 2013
      I follow Alex and Ani on Facebook and I own the Path Of Life Expandable Wire Bangle Set which I wear EVERYDAY! I love the bnglae sets and have purchased some for close friends, who equally love them as well! I don’t Tweet, but I do Facebook and have posted your blog to the News Feed.
  12. by Penny Martin .

    Art + Commerce 2005 Festival of Emerging Photographers

    Our choice of photographers Glen Luchford and Liz Collins to flank our first 'Moving Fashion' weekend (there's a tip as to what is coming up on Monday!) was partly influenced by Art + Commerce, their agency's, annual festival, which is being staged in Brooklyn Bridge Park, New York this weekend. The opening is happening as we speak (18:00 hrs NYC time), it opens to the public tomorrow and runs until the 25th.

    The principle is that any unrepresented, unpublished photographer is invited to contribute to an 'open submission' process, screened by the mighty Art + Commerce photographic organisation and contextualised in a high-profile exhibition. See Sung Jin Park's South Korean 'Kid Nostalgia' series above. The whole endeavour follows in a long legacy of big commercial entities doing something philanthropic in association with the arts (think: Medici family etc.) but for the 24 photographers being showcased, you could certainly argue that the benefit of association goes both ways. If you can't make it over to New York, there is always the catalogue, PEEK!


    1. Doris
      23:55 17 Aug 2012
      Ali! I did not know that you put photos of our faoihsn show day on the Internet ! They are really beautiful..congrats! you definitely must give me some tips to take pictures like that !
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