The menswear collections continue in Paris, but you can revisit the Italian shows with our panel discussions, now available on-demand! Daryoush Haj-Najafi and our industry expert panelists unpicked the Autumn/Winter offerings from Marni's Pitti Imagine show as well as Milanese icons Prada and Versace, pondering vularity, nostaligia, gender-bending at Prada and the lack of pants at Versace.
We're rounding off our coverage of the Autumn/Winter 15 menswear shows with two of Paris' most discussion worthy shows, Loewe on Friday 23 January at 16:00 GMT, and Études on Saturday 24 January at 13:00 GMT.
Unpicking the Madrid-based house's second collection with star designer J.W. Anderson at the helm, our Loewe panel will feature the expert verdicts of i-D's senior digital editor Dean Kissick, creative consultants Gianluca Longo and Mimma Viglezio and LCF's Rob Phillips. This season's creative output of the Études studio collective will be analysed by Cake on Coffin PR's Maria Pizzeria, stylist and music producer Henry Mackay-Bull, 1 Granary editor-in-chief Olga Kuryshchuk and T-R-E-M-O-R-S editor Maksymilian Fus Mickiewicz who will join our chair, Complex UK's Daryoush Haj-Najafi on Sunday at 13:00 GMT.
Tune in to watch these panels live and review all our A/W 15 menswear collections coverage while you wait, with curated image and social media feeds, show reports by our editor Lou Stoppard and all the rest of our insightful panel discussions, available to watch on-demand.
Introducing Gary Card, the latest guest illustrator to give their take on the A/W 15 menswear collections.
Following on from Unskilled Worker, SHOWstudio's resident artist for the Milan menswear collections, Card's original artworks inspired by the Paris shows will be appearing on our Tumblr page over the course of the week. The set designer and illustrator is one of London's most talked-about talents, having previously collaborated with SHOWstudio on Nick Knight and Dinos Chapman's Agathe and Seraphine's House project for Garage magazine.
Head to our Tumblr to find the full series of Unskilled Worker’s wonderful Milan-inspired artworks.
Following London, Pitti and Milan we're finally at the last leg of the men's collections - Paris! Join resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi and a host of industry experts as they consider the season's biggest shows.
On Wednesday 21 January we'll be kicking things off with a discussion of the Gosha Rubchinskiy show featuring Masha Mombelli, Anastasiia Fedorova, Kyle Steward and Alban Adam at 15:30 GMT. This will be followed by a closer look at Walter Van Beirendonck's collection with help from Hettie Judah, Maarten Van Der Horst, Carri Munden and Curtly Thomas and at 17:30 GMT. Last but not least, tune in at 20:30 GMT for observation and analysis of Raf Simons with John-Michael O'Sullivan, Dean Kissick, and Rob Meyers.
The next day, Thursday 22 January, we'll be talking Louis Vuitton at 13:30 GMT with Mimma Viglezio, Katie Baron and Paul Gorman, followed by an examination of Rick Owen's A/W offering featuring Maarten Van Der Horst and Rebecca Gonsalves. Phew!
There will be more to come this weekend as we ponder Loewe and Etudes but in the meantime, you can stay up-to-date with menswear happenings including runway shots, social media feeds and Lou Stoppard's runway reviews, all available on our Collections page.
Introducing Unskilled Worker, the latest in our stable of guest illustrators capturing the key looks from the Milan A/W 15 menswear collections.
Following on from Chloe Feinberg, SHOWstudio's resident artist for London Collections: Men, Unskilled Worker's original artworks can also be found on our Tumblr page. The London-based, self-taught artist rose to prominence via her wildly successful Instagram account, her striking portrayals of faces and fashion drawing a large following.
Check out Unskilled Worker's first works right now on our Tumblr - Marni, Bottega Veneta and Ermenegildo Zegna amongst them - and follow her progress as the collections continue. Don't forget to review Feinberg's delicate renderings of the best from LC:M too.
Artwork by SHOWstudio contributor Patrick Ian Hartley goes on display tomorrow, 17 January, in a new exhibition titled Faces of Conflict hosted by the Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM) and the University of Exeter. The exhibition puts an unflinching focus on the the facially disfigured casualties of World War I, highlighting the ways in which artistic practice fed into surgical practice (in the work of sculptors as mask-makers or epithesists), and how radical new forms of surgery changed the context in which artists represented the face. The presentation features artwork produced in the immediate aftermath of the war by artists such as Otto Dix and Wyndham Lewis alongside contemporary pieces from Hartley, René Apallec and Eleanor Crook. These are displayed with various medical instruments, surgical documents and masks that illustrate the unprecedented innovations in maxillofacial surgery at this time.
While new military technology proved lethally efficient during the war, the same advancements had not been made to rebuild the shattered minds and bodies exposed to the shells ands shrapnel they spread. Physically maimed veterans were encouraged (through government policy) to remain out of the public view for fear of horrifying or provoking the masses and as such undermining the war effort. There were however, artists at this time who exposed the full horror of these mens' suffering. Otto Dix's etching Skin Graft portrays a face ravaged by mechanised warfare. Drawn with direct reference the injured men he encountered during his own service, the portrait presents a cuttingly ironic militarised man. Grotesque, ghoulish and gangrenous, the subject's suffering is glaringly depicted. Other artists paired with surgeons such as Harold Gillies in order to create ever more effective prosthesis.
Hartley began investigating the pioneering work of Harold Gillies after his collaboration with Dr Ian Thompson in sculpting bio glass facial implants, (you can hear the pair talk about this in an exclusive interview on SHOWstudio). His research lead him to create the Wellcome Collection funded Project Facade, for which he examined the lives of a number of Gillies' patients who had undergone experimental maxillofacial surgery. Hartley embroidered military uniforms with details of each of his subject's histories using the stitching and suture techniques developed by Gillies for his surgery. For Faces of Conflict in Exeter, Hartley has revisited this project, looking particularly at one individual, Walter Ernest O'Neil Yeo. Yeo was a gunner on board the HMS Warspite and suffered cordite burns during the Battle of Jutland. He was treated by Gillies and while the surgery was entirely successful in restoring function to the eyelids, the aesthetic results were not entirely satisfactory. Gillies freely admitted that mistakes had been made at the pre-operative stage, which resulted in an infected skin graft thickening and giving the impression of a mask.
Hartley documents the pivotal events in Yeo's life in a diptych featuring a naval uniform and a hospital gown of the type worn by these patients. Through fabric manipulation, digital embroidery, appliqué, heavy burning and branding, these pieces of apparel narrate the story of this serviceman in an incredibly intimate way. The duress under which Hartley puts each item of clothing echoes the violence suffered by Yeo's own body. This work and many others are on view, and Hartley's residency at the university continues this year. The exhibition is open to the public from tomorrow until 5 April at the Royal Albert Memorial Museum and Art Gallery in Exeter.
Image: Patrick Ian Hartley, From Yeo Diptych, 2014, Vintage patients gown, digital embroidery, appliqué, branding
Courtesy Patrick Ian Hartley
Tune in at 19:00 GMT this Saturday 17 January to watch a panel of industry experts including creative director Harris Elliot and fashion photographer Amarpaul Kalirai dissect Donatella's dream for the male Versace customer in a live-streamed video chat.
On Sunday 18 January at 17:30 GMT Vogue.co.uk's Jessica Bumpus, milliner Stephen Jones, Machine-A's Stavros Karelis and Anna Pesonen of SSAW magazine join our resident chair, Complex UK's Daryoush Haj-Najafi to unpick master designer Miuccia Prada's latest menswear offering.
Don't miss these insightful discussions and while you wait, revisit our on-demand panels from LC:M covering Cottweiler, Craig Green, Nasir Mazhar and MAN amongst others. Be sure to keep an eye on our live curated social media and runway image feeds, as well as show reports by our editor Lou Stoppard.
In the latest addition to our In Conversation series, a group of experts gathered with members of the public to discuss the provocative work Chair by artist Allen Jones. This piece is currently on display at the Royal Academy, where this discussion was held, along with other work from the artist’s long career. Leading the debate, which discusses reactions to Chair then and now, was Art Under Attack; Histories of British Iconoclasm curator Stacy Boldrick. Invited speakers included conservator Lyndsey Morgan who worked on Chair after it was sabotaged with acid in 1986, fashion commentator and feminist Grace Woodward, and Edith Devaney, curator of Allen Jones RA at the Royal Academy of Arts, who each present their own personal reactions to the work.
Considering reactions to the piece since its creation in 1969, the discussion cites media depictions of controversial artworks, the destruction of artworks as feminist protest and the peculiarities of the visual language of BDSM. The conversation verges around subjects of the suffragettes, the 2002 film The Secretary and the fashion photography of Ellen Von Unwerth, as Woodward comments; ‘It raises the question, if this was made by a woman would we even be sitting around talking about it?’ On the topic of public responses to art exhibitions, Morgan also points out that ‘people get disgusted at a distance, I feel that happens often with shows I’ve been involved in. People go off and talk and go ‘it’s terrible’ and you say ‘well have you been?’ and they haven’t.’
London Collections: Men is finished but you can still head over to Tumblr to view artist Chloe Feinberg's illustrations of the key shows! Feinberg has depicted looks from LC:M favourites including Sibling and Christopher Shannon as well as young designers Sankunz and MAN, all in her signature sweetly surreal style.
Stay tuned for the Milan shows as seen through the eyes of self-taught, London-based illustrator Unskilled Worker!
Join us tonight for our first and only Pitti panel of the season as we unpick the Marni show!
Resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi will be sitting down with creative consultant Sharmadean Reid, editor Dal Chodha and writer Natalie Theo as they ponder the Autimn/Winter 2015 collection and the current climate of Italian menswear.
Watch the acclaimed jeweller share his first memories of fashion and tales of his ‘amazing’ apprenticeship making fine jewellery in Hatton Garden. Describing his ‘favourite phase’ restoring antique pieces, Leane credits his past masters with inspiring him to produce ‘my own jewellery that is a statement of the times that we live in now’, in reaction to the ‘real mass production era’ of the 1990s. Leane reflects: ‘That’s when I fell in love with design. Then through a moment of serendipity I met Alexander McQueen, and off we went.’
Watch Leane’s revealing interview now, complete with stories of his innovative work with McQueen - ‘nothing was impossible’ - and his continuing need to push boundaries in the wake of his collaborator’s tragic, untimely death. Don’t forget to review the rest of the rolling In Fashion interview series featuring fashion luminaries from Daphne Guinness to McQueen himself.
'I was just so ecstatic to work with you because I'd been a fan of yours for so long,' says Ross of the editorial for POP magazine, and Knight is equally complimentary; 'From my point of view, you modelled in a completely different way from anyone else I'd ever photographed.' Styled in cardboard garments by John Galliano and bondage tape, she also recalls the experience of getting undressed at the end of the day: 'I don't forget that feeling of relief!'
Other topics of conversation include mentors, Katie Grand, and why modelling can't be taught -'It's something you feel inside you that needs to come out, but it's also a business and you have to learn that side of it.'
Our own Nick and Charlotte Knight together with Stavros Karelis, founder and buying director of London's acclaimed Soho concept store MACHINE-A and stylist Anna Trevelyan, who is also MACHINE-A's creative director, hosted the SHOWstudio + MACHINE-A London Collections: Men Closing Party last night.Held within the panoramic 7th Floor of Ace Hotel London Shoreditch, guests enjoyed Absolut Elyx cocktails (respectively named after Charlotte Knight, Anna Trevelyan and SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard), and music from Skinny Macho, Larry B, and Matthew Williams while enjoying the amazing view of the London skyline.Guests included industry insiders such as Ed Marler, Craig Green, Carri Munden, Rafferty Law, Skepta, Nasir Mazhar, Harriet Verney, Henry Holland, Princess Julia, Astrid Andersen, Tim Noble, Calum Knight, Bip Ling, Ryan Lo, Liam Hodges, Antony Price, MNEK, Billie JD Porter, Claire Barrow, Shaun Samson, Cozette McCreery, Sadie Williams, and Benjamin Kirchhoff. The event appeared to also form aftershow parties for Craig Green, Nasir Mazhar, and Xander Zhou, all showing on the official LC:M schedule earlier in the day.Catch up with our coverage of all the key LC:M shows, and stay tuned for Pitti and Milan coming soon!
Selected to cover the London Collections: Men, SHOWstudio resident illustrator Chloe Feinberg has been busy depicting her favourite shows, the results of which are beginning to appear on Tumblr.
Taking inspiration from Topman and Fashion East's MAN initiative, Feinberg reveals her pencil rendering of Nicomede Talevera's striking separates in stages, set in an architectural space, the model having melted away. The Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art trained artist then moved on to depict Sibling's playful offering for A/W 15.
Follow Chloe Feinberg's progress on the SHOWstudio Tumblr as she captures more of the London shows in her signature style and explore original artworks by SHOWstudio resident artists from past seasons, available to purchase now from the SHOWstudio Shop.
Our very own editor Lou Stoppard has been dashing round London Collections: Men, taking in and writing up the designers' new Autumn/Winter 2015 offerings.
Providing insightful and detailed analysis, Stoppard's reviews so far include heavyweights Alexander McQueen, Moschino and J.W. Anderson and London stalwarts Sibling - 'both silly and cerebral' - Christopher Raeburn, Astrid Anderson and more. Giving us insight into the newest wave of talent, Stoppard also gives her verdict on the three young designers starting out at MAN, Fashion East and Topman's initiative: 'a strong showing and one that said lots about the future of menswear and its history as well.'
Stay tuned to our collections coverage as Stoppard moves on to Pitti, Florence and thereafter to Milan and Paris, continuing to report back on the menswear shows.