Alexander Fury's Tumblr takeover is in full swing! The journalist extraordinaire is showcasing the hidden details of couture, from candid shots of fittings to intricate details of beadwork and the insides of structured dresses. Fury has been filling our Tumblr with content from the current A/W 14 collections as well as past seasons, vintage ephemera and quotes from the designers, revealing a rare insight into the secret world of Haute Couture.
We have what are sure to be two extremely interesting panels in store for day 3 of the Couture collections!
Then be sure to tune back in at 15:30 BST for our next panel on Russian couturier Ulyana Sergeenko, featuring writer Hilary Alexander, Djurdja Bartlett and writer Anastasiia Fedorova. Both panels will be chaired as usual by SHOWstudio’s own editor Lou Stoppard!
Each Collections season, we invite an artist-in-residence to illustrate the catwalk. But we’ve added a twist especially for the Haute Couture A/W 14 shows. London based artist Stephen Doherty is currently in the studio creating a wall of his runway depictions to feature as the backdrop for this round of panel discussions. Doherty will fill in his figures with looks from selected shows as the collections continue, creating a more complete picture each time!
Tune in now and through-out Couture fashion week to watch a live stream of Doherty at work. There will be purchasable items by Doherty available in the SHOWstudio Shop later on - so stay tuned for more on that!
Fury has been posting up a storm of exquisite imagery and content from current and past couture seasons, including quotes from designers along with photographs of fittings, close-ups of garment details, drawings, mood boards, and everything else that goes into creating the most complex collections in fashion. Check it out this rare perspective on the couture shows.
Keep checking back throughout the week to follow Fury’s curation.
SHOWstudio is proud to present the world exclusive of a new film by Marina Abramovic and adidas. The short is the first ever re-staging of Abramovic’s iconic 1970s performance Work Relation. The performance is re-imagined through the lens of the 2014 FIFA World Cup™ and explores the parallels between sport and performance. We interviewed Abramovic prior to the launch and found out some more about the affinities she finds between the two disciplines.
Niamh White: There are many parallels between your performance art and sport- commitment, perseverance, endurance, selfless-ness, collaboration, discipline, pain. What are the most important similarities for you? Can one learn from the other?
Marina Abramovic: One similarity between performance and sport that I wanted to highlight in this video is the importance of group collaboration. When Ulay and I originally performed the piece Work Relation in 1978, the power of collective strength came through in the performance. I believe that it is important to learn from other disciplines in order to bring new life to whatever it is that you do. This is something at the heart of my institute, MAI, and something that I felt was important to convey in this video, which was itself a collaborative project.
Niamh White: You often ask your performers and participants to wear lab coats, as though they are a kit or uniform. Why have you chosen to do this?
Marina Abramovic: I ask the performers to wear lab coats to create a sense of collective experimentation. A willingness to experiment and risk failure is what allows for growth, both on an individual level and on the level of the collective. The lab coats also mute external distractions such as bright clothing, which can deepen the internal focus of the performers. When participants perform the Abramovic Method at MAI, they will be asked to wear lab coats for these reasons, as well as to create a temporary community with those who are experiencing the work together.
Watch the video in its entirety exclusively on SHOWstudio now!
Couture fashion week is here! We’ve got a great set of panels to celebrate, starting with our live Schiaparelli discussion today at 11:00 BST, followed by our Christian Dior panel at 17:00 BST. Our own Lou Stoppard chairs both panels, featuring special guests Amber Butchart, Judith Watt, James Sherwood, Verity Parker, Kerry Taylor, and Lucy Norris.
As always, stay glued to our Collections page for more up to the minute coverage, including behind-the-scenes action, runway images and reports by Stephanie LaCava. Finally, head over to our Tumblr page to see a special couture curation by none other than SHOWstudio regular Alexander Fury!
Alongside our coverage of the collections, Fury will be posting about all things couture, specifically focusing on the technical process of couture - so look out for reference imagery, quotations, and other media showing the technique and toil behind some of the most beautiful pieces in fashion.
While we continue our Subjective series, presenting the history of contemporary fashion photography from the perspective of models, Nick Knight is launching Transformative, a new series of interviews with those who work behind-the-scenes: makeup artists stylists, and hairdressers. The series aims to highlight and celebrate the tireless work these individuals do, rather than simply crediting the photographer as the mastermind of a fashion shot.
This week’s Transformative interview, our first ever, features makeup artist Val Garland sitting down with Knight to discuss her entrance into the makeup world and the gritty Dior campaign they worked on together in 2001. 'Advertising had been slick and polished... it wasn't about a certain woman, it was about every woman' she said, before continuing, 'It felt like the first time that Dior was aimed at the young - it wasn't fuddy-duddy'.
Watch their candid interview now, and stay tuned for more intriguing, behind-the-scenes views in Transformative!
Worldwide exclusive! SHOWstudio is delighted to announce that we will launch a new film by Marina Abramovic and adidas in celebration of the 2014 FIFA World Cup. The pioneering performance artist has partnered with the brand on a film documenting the reenactment of one of her seminal works that was last performed in 1979. The short explores the parallels between performance art and sport, and will be revealed in its entirety exclusively on SHOWstudio from 7 July. More details to follow!
Early this year we launched Ugly, a landmark series that explores fashion's fascination with deliberate awkwardness and vulgarity. The project was inspired by the statement from Miuccia Prada that, 'ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting. Maybe because it is newer,' and features essays by esteemed fashion journalists and a scholarly interview with curator and historian Valerie Steele.
This week we launch a new essay by writer and SHOWstudio's own editorial assistant Sarah Kathryn Cleaver. The piece focuses on ugliness within beauty trends. Cleaver writes, ‘Isabella Blow’s deliberately lipstick stained teeth, Anna Piaggi’s softly waved turquoise fringe and blotchy doll make-up and Michele Lamy’s gothic, inked forehead, silver teeth and black fingers are all examples of an irrepressible creative drive, expressed using the nearest available media, the skin and the contents of a makeup bag’.
Our own Nick Knight is giving you the chance to see London through his eyes via a unique collaboration with American Express!
In 2012 Knight dreamed up Pussycat, Pussycat our first ever Instagram shoot, so it makes sense for American Express to partner with Knight on #MySecretCity, a real time photography exhibition hosted live from London on Twitter. Knight is out and about in London, capturing photos of the hidden inspirations he sees in the places he passes by every day, and sharing them in real time. The Twitter exhibition shows the hidden beauty in these unexpected locations, including city gardens, brutalist architecture, and metropolitan playgrounds to help people realise the full potential of London.
‘We get so stuck in our familiar ways around the city that we miss the sheer beauty and inspiration all around us, which is why I’m working with American Express to celebrate this wonderful city and help people see its hidden beauty,’ says Knight.
Head over to our Twitter now to watch as Knight posts his snapshots in real time!
Tigran Avetisyan's capsule collection for SHOWstudio Shop is now available to purchase! The designer has created a limited run 'Selfie' outfit which consists of a t-shirt and shorts. The set features mirrored writing with the slogan 'Us and Them'. Tigran has also created an iPhone case especially designed for taking 'Selfies' in the mirror.
Yesterday New Medium, Diverse Messages; Convention & Transgression in the Fashion Film, LCF Graduate School's first conference on the subject of fashion film took place at their Central London base.
The conference discussed the rising genre and screened a variety of work, with early experiments by Guy Bourdin and Blumenfeld, up to the latest and most forward thinking offerings of the world of fashion film, such as Nick Knight's newest film #asif.
Speakers included Nick Rees-Roberts from the University of Bristol discussing films by Guy Bourdin, as well as Hussain Currimbhoy, talking about fashion film as documantary. Speaking about the never ending mystery of what a fashion film actually is, Stephen Whelan from Whitelodge discussed he lack of convention and need for transgression within the genre. Filmmaker Kathryn Ferguson was interviewed by the conference's organiser and initiator, LCF's Nilgin Yusuf and SHOWstudio was represented by Marie Schuller talking about fashion imagery and technology, as well as screening SHOWstudio's most exciting recent film output, including The Elegant Universe and Knight's SS13 Lane Crawford Campaign.
We've come to the end of our two day live shoot, but keep your eye on The Graduates project for the fashion film as well as the editorial soon to be published in 1 Granary magazine.
Over the course of the 1 and 2 July 2014, Nick Knight, Simon Foxton and the 1 Granary team created a shoot that showcased the work of ten graduates from the CSM MA class of 2014. The beautifully crafted menswear and womenswear pieces were modelled by Sang Woo Kim and Alexia Wight, against the understated set-up of the white-painted studio.
If you want to see more from the graduate designers, take a look at our Tumblr, where we're posting the groundwork behind the collections featured in the project in the form of sketches, reference images, fabric samples and more!
In tandem with The Graduates shoot, we're curating our Tumblr with the inspiration and groundwork behind each of the featured designers' final collections. Expect inspiration boards, reference imagery, sketches and developmental designs. So far we have looked in detail at the work of textiles sepcialists Fiona Blakeman and Anita Hirlekar and knitwear designer Serena Gili.
The Graduates is a collaborative project between Nick Knight and 1 Granary, the CSM student-run magazine, along with stylist Simon Foxton, to showcase ten of the graduate’s collections in an editorial spread and fashion film. Five graduate's looks remain, today we'll be shooting the work of the menswear graduates on model Sang Woo Kim as well as more womenswear on the lovely Alexia Wight. Watch now!