We're almost halfway through Joseph Bennett Tumblr takeover! The production designer has been posting never-before-seen imagery from his many collaborations with Alexander McQueen. Expect a behind-the-scenes look at seminal shows including Voss, Scanners and Plato's Atlantis.
In an intriguing collaborative project, model Tessa Kuragi and designer Jon-Ross Le Haye have created Bruise Album, a one-off, light activated album and a limited edition of 50 facsimile books showcasing a collection of semi-transparent images of bruising.
Kuragi, who has shot for fashion photographers such as Inez and Vinoodh and Ellen Von Unwerth, has long collected photos of bruises she has sustained over the years. 'I have always been drawn to bruising as a mark of love, endurance, trust, and the paradoxical nature of sexual sadomasochism - being both incredibly intimate and caring, whilst mediated through pain and suffering,' she explained. With the help of her partner Le Haye, the designer behind numerous recognisable Tate and Whitechapel Gallery campaigns, she presented her collation of bruises as a series of semi-transparent images bound together in a re-appropriated Victorian photo-album. The format acts to mirror the fading of bruising over time - together the collection forms a combined bruise that lightens with each page turn, while the pretty illustrations on each page create a strange juxtaposition. The pair's choice of translucent paper also references the nature of bruises on the skin, where blood, something previously concealed, leaks to just below the surface.
In March 2015, SHOWstudio teamed up with MACHINE-A on a brand new online retail venture. To celebrate the collaboration, Nick Knight invited the dynamic community that surrounds the London concept store to transform themselves into the idols they dream of being. Watch creatives, including Skinny Macho, Matthew Williams, Carri Munden and Darq E Freaker, transform into the likes of Bob Marley, North West and Voldemort with the help of face-mapping technology adapted by SHOWstudio's digital art director Jon Emmony. Styled by MACHINE-A fashion director Anna Trevelyan, the shape-shifters wear pieces by designers including Cottweiler, Nasir Mazhar and Ashish.
Explore the project now and browse the clothes in SHOWstudio / MACHINE-A's newly-launched shop!
Continuing SHOWstudio's tradition of inviting a guest creative to curate our Tumblr page each month, 1-7 April 2015 will see production designer Joseph Bennett share never-before-seen imagery from his various collaborations with the late Alexander McQueen.
Having designed many of McQueen's most seminal shows including Voss, La Dame Bleue and Plato's Atlantis (as well as the Savage Beauty exhibiton in both New York and London), Bennett's archive of behind-the-scenes photographs perfectly complements our recent Unseen McQueen project.
Take a look at his first posts now and don't forget to watch his Unseen McQueen interview for an in-depth discussion on his work with the designer.
Watch the latest instalment of our ongoing Subjective series, which sees Nick Knight reflect on the history of contemporary fashion photography from the perspective of the models. This week's interview sees him in conversation with British supermodel Erin O’Connor.
To mark John Galliano's first five years at Christian Dior, Knight shot a series of images interpreting Galliano's groundbreaking haute couture collections from Spring/Summer 1997 to Spring/Summer 2002. O’Connor takes a look back at her striking photograph from the Past, Present & Couture project, discussing the dynamic between photographer, model and capturing the image: ‘Theres a real ugly beauty to this because there is nothing polite and contained about it,’ she explains.
SHOWstudio is delighted to announce that non-seasonal publication Archivist has been nominated in the fashion category of this year's Designs of the Year exhibition.
Now in its eighth year, Designs of the Year celebrates design that 'promotes or delivers change, enables access, extends design practice or captures the spirit of the year.' Archivist, which is edited by regular SHOWstudio panelist Dal Chodha, takes an 'inspirational rather than aspirational' view of fashion, exploring collections in depth and bringing to the foreground aspects and details that in this climate of fast fashion and excessive consumption, tend to be overlooked.
Visit the Design Museum until 23 August 2015 to see all 76 nominees over 6 categories.
Two years in the making, Satori is a feature-length film created by video and performance artist (and frequent SHOWstudio collaborator), Erica Schreiner.
Inspired by the principle of Satori as the alpha and omega of Zen Buddhism, the film tells the story of a woman who gives birth to eggs and sells them to survive so she can continue to make art. With the help of an encouraging unicorn, the all knowing goddess Isis and a disagreeable Beta fish, she finds a way into the universe where she goes in search of answers about her current existence as an artist.
Combining the haunting with the ethereal in her signature style, the film explores notions of femininity, motherhood and creation, all shot, edited and performed single-handedly by Schreiner. In her own words, 'Satori is the story of my life, the story of the artist.'
SHOWstudio filmmaker Raquel Couceiro has brought our Illustrating McQueen artworks to life through a series of subtle animations. Our community of artists and fashion illustrators were commissioned to create artworks that would operate as odes to important McQueen designs for an online exhibition that accompanied both our Unseen McQueen series and the Nick Knight and Alexander McQueen exhibition at our gallery in London. The artworks can now been seen in a short film that charts each look in chronological order and cites both their significance within McQueen's wider practice and the artist's technical or conceptual interpretation of it.
The artworks in this collection range from Unskilled Worker's bright-eyed hybrid figure that appears half raven and half human to Laura Laine's rendering of femininity at its most ferocious in her pencil drawing of the rigid leather dress with horse hair fringing from Spring/Summer 2005 It's Just a Game. Each of the works are original paintings and drawings and they are available to buy through our newly launched online shop.
Watch the film now!
We’re very excited to reveal imagery of Alexander McQueen’s Amex funded Black show that has sat, untouched in Nick Knight’s archive for nearly a decade! Working behind-the-scenes at the event in 2004, Nick Knight had minutes to capture each model in their looks before they headed onto the catwalk. Photographing the girls - including Kate Moss, Lily Cole and Naomi Campbell - behind a sheet of glass, McQueen and Knight intended to assemble the images after the show, but never found time.
To celebrate the opening of Savage Beauty at the V&A in London, and to pay tribute to Lee McQueen by completing the circle of their Black sponsorship, Amex supported the completion of this ambitious image. Knight worked for weeks to assemble the photographs into a striking tableau that references key motifs visible in McQueen's work and pays tribute to his skill as a maker.
The work also takes on a new, dynamic form in an animated fashion film that references the glass box set of the original show. The project is further explained with a short behind-the-scenes film showing moments from the shoot, interspersed with interviews about the making of the image. A re-edit of the runway footage, complete with a soundtrack by John Gosling, will be launching as part of the project very soon.
In the latest addition to our growing collection of short fashion films by new and emerging filmmakers, SHOWstudio is pleased to present The Chase, a collaboration between Belgian director and photographer Jennifer Massaux and neo-Rococo artist Kukula. Massaux’s film explores the artist’s creative process from start to finish while maintaining the unique essence of Kukula’s haunting and evocative illustrations.
The illustrator behind SHOWstudio’s Kukula’s Couture series and a contributor to our Illustrating McQueen project, Kukula blends influences from both classical art and contemporary pop culture to create feminine, doll-like figures surrounded by symbolic objects.
With styling and production by Aline Pimentel and featuring garments by Chanel and Dries Van Noten, the film explores, in Massaux's own words 'the conjuring of the muse and the fleeting spirit of inspiration,' and builds a whimsical and enchanting world around Kukula's artworks. Watch now!
Catch up on our interview with David Sims, filmed live as part of our In Fashion series. On-demand footage of the photographer's conversation with Lou Stoppard is available to watch for a limited time only. Watch as he discusses his ideas of beauty, his early work with i-D and The Face magazines, the influence of music and his interest in taking photographs of men, ‘There are so many taboos that stand in front of describing men, it’s just easy prey,’ the image-maker muses.
SHOWstudio presents Reed + Rader's innovative film Dubstep Dinosaurs 3D. A year in the making, Dubstep Dinosaurs 3D is the digital art duo's sequel to the original of the same name. The project was built completely in a virtual world using the Unreal gaming engine and utilised motion capture for the characters, continuing Reed + Rader's process of sculpting virtual environments to create films. Enjoy the cutting-edge Dubstep Dinosaurs 3D, featuring a soundtrack by Vacate.
Over years of researching her Icons and Muses project, Tchkonia has interviewed numerous influential figures of 20th and 21st century fashion and culture, including Pierre Berge, Rick Owens and Michele Lamy. She invited SHOWstudio to edit and release the footage as a series entitled Love, Money, God, a nod to the journalist's three key questions.
Following on from the first interview with image-maker Jean-Paul Goude, Betty Catroux discusses modelling for Coco Chanel as a teenager. 'She taught me how to dislike people, she saw the bad in everyone,' she says. Catroux also mentions her close friendship with fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, who she met in a nightclub. ‘He took me all over the world, holidays, trips, everything… Going for days without sleeping, it was natural for us, ’ she says of their free, luxurious lifestyle.
Aside from her eventful life in fashion, Catroux also discusses love, her children and her marriage, likening her husband (interior decorator François Catroux) and Pierre Berger to fathers to her and Saint Laurent. 'They protected us like parents. They thought we were very naughty ... and they wanted to make us stop!' she explains.
SHOWstudio founder Nick Knight interviews Alek Wek as part of our weekly Subjective series. The project, which seeks to tell the story of contemporary fashion photography from the model’s perspective, includes supers such as Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Karen Elson and Kristen McMenamy candidly recalling the iconic fashion images they helped create.
This time round, Wek takes a look back at her experience modelling in the Autumn/Winter 1997 and Autumn/Winter 2000 Alexander McQueen shows. She describes the difficulty of walking on the uneven catwalk for A/W 97's It’s a Jungle Out There, adding ‘If you did too much sashay, you might just end up sashaying on the floor.’ The Sudanese model also reveals that she wold spend hours practicing walking in heels, up and down her apartment, as well as the importance of having a plan as a model; ‘It’s important to be with the agents that aren’t just excited to celebrate you because you’re a newcomer,’ she explains.
Dior and I, the highly anticipated film documenting the creation of Raf Simons’ first haute couture collection for the Christian Dior fashion house, is coming to cinemas this Friday 27 March. To celebrate the release of the documentary by Frédéric Tcheng, SHOWstudio is pleased to present a trailer and an interview with the filmmaker.
The feature-length film documents the eight stressful weeks that Simons had to complete his debut collection. Revealing the inner workings of the design house, from the creative processes of its artistic director to the tireless seamstresses of the atelier, the film explores the personal bonds that form between the collaborators, their work, and the legacy of Christian Dior.
In conversation with SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard, Tcheng speaks about first falling into the world of fashion through working on the Valentino documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor and subsequently co-directing Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel. Recalling a letter he wrote which persuaded an initially reluctant Simons to agree to filming, he explains he was interested in ‘the encounter between the past and the future… between a designer from Antwerp who is very future driven and the atelier who are mostly about people who have worked there for decades and decades. So these two cultures kind of collided.’
In keeping with our commitment to providing a platform for new talent and emerging fashion filmmakers, we’re pleased to present Pippin and the Pursuits of Life, a fashion film by Femke Huurdeman. Originally the filmmaker’s graduation project, the short features the playful Spring/Summer 2015 collection of Dutch designer Maaike Fransen and takes the collection's ethos as its starting point. With a whimsical soundtrack by Ravian de Vries, enchanting sets and hair and make-up by Sacha Kambong and Sofia Commandeur, Huurdeman’s colourful film builds a world around the quirky garments.