For our latest collection of London menswear Spring/Summer 2015 illustrations, check out Eduardo Mata Icaza’s last offerings, this time from the KTZ show. Icaza illustrates three of KTZ’s geometric designs using only black, white, and shades of grey atop the orange canvas, a perfect reflection of the mostly monochrome collection presented on the steel grey catwalk.
Subjective is the series instigated by Nick Knight to explore the history of contemporary fashion photography through the eyes of those who are at the centre of the image, but often left voiceless - the models. So far, Knight has sat down with icons including Kate Moss, who opened up about working with Corrine Day, and Lily Cole, who spoke about learning to model and being shot by Steven Meisel.
This week’s interviewee, Kristen McMenamy, shares her experiences working with Jeurgen Teller. McMenamy sat down with Knight to recount the story of how she began her modelling career. It was after being canceled from a Versace shoot, ‘Versace, at that point, that was it… you get cancelled, you’re a loser,’ that the devastated American model returned to London to do an i-D cover with Juergen Teller, who similarly had just been cancelled from another Versace shoot. ‘Who needs them?’ they decided, with McMenamy scrawling “Versace” across her chest, leading to the famously controversial photograph at the centre of this Subjective.
Watch this candid interview now and stay tuned for more, rare Subjective perspectives.
The London Men's Collections ended yesterday! Before the madness of Milan begins, be sure to catch up on our previous discussions - the Craig Green and Xander Zhou panels are now available to watch on demand!
The Craig Green panel featured Matt Williams, Rob Meyers, and Dan Thawley, chaired by Daryoush Haj-Najafi. The panel spoke to the highly emotional nature of the show, with Thawley reporting that our own Lou Stoppard was in tears at the end. ‘When I first saw these first looks, that was what I got - purity’, said Williams.
The Xander Zhou panel consisted of Daryoush Haj-Najafi, Tianwei Zhang, Sohrab Golsorkhi, and Shaun Cole exploring the Chinese context of the show. ‘People in Asia dress in a more radical way because we feel disconnected from our pasts,’ Zhang said.
Catch up on the in depth discussions now!
This past weekend Belgium presented their finest crop of emerging fashion designers at SHOW2014, the graduation show of the Antwerp Fashion Department. The nearly 4 hours long spectacle featured work of all years, however the focus was on the master students, who closed the show with their graduate collections.
The ten design students set a new gold standard with their versatile, original collections, proving once more that the Antwerp Fashion Department remains on top of its game. SHOWstudio's Marie Schuller represented SHOWstudio as part of the SHOW2014 external jury, which also featured Dazed and Confused editor Isabella Burley and Style Bubble's Susanna Lau.
Congratulations to Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene and all the other teachers of the Antwerp Fashion Department, as well as all graduating students!
Fashion film has become a major promotional and communication tool during collections, so it comes at no surprise that many designers this LC:M chose film to present their new designs. To celebrate this season's offerings, the British Fashion Council hosted a special evening of fashion film launches, followed by a panel discussion at the ICA this Monday. Film Night screened films by designers such as Christopher Raeburn and Nicholas Kirkwood and discussed the global change towards moving image in fashion promotion in a panel chaired by film critic and broadcaster Jason Solomons.
The panel consisted of filmmakers Kathryn Ferguson and Sean Frank, designer Christopher Raeburn, British GQ online fashion editor Nick Carvell and SHOWstudio's very own Marie Schuller.
The London Collections: Men are now over! Milan begins on Saturday 21 June, while you wait, review our coverage from London, including panel discussions on the likes of Christopher Shannon, Moschino, Craig Green and others. We've also got runway looks from all the shows plus our signature curated social media feeds. Last but not least, reviews by our own editor Lou Stoppard are in!
Head over to the Collections page now for the full picture!
The final day of the London menswear Spring/Summer 2015 collections features a live panel discussion of luxury street wear designers Matt Dainty and Ben Cottrell, collectively known as Cottweiler.
Tune in at at 11:00 BST to hear writer Daryoush Haj-Najafi, A Magazine Curated By editor Dan Thawley, Primitive London co-owner Andrew Grune, art director Matt Williams, music editor Finn Diesel, gather to discuss their thoughts on the Cottweiler show.
As always, stay glued to our Collections page for more live coverage!
It’s day three of the London Men’s Collections, and we’re happy to announce that our live panel discussions on MAN, Christopher Shannon, and Moschino are now available to watch on demand!
The Christopher Shannon show was reviewed live by Steve Salter, Rob Meyers, and Bel Jacobs. The panelists discussed Shannon's place in the London fashion pack ‘I think of him as someone who designs for outsiders', and his inspirations ‘it goes back to that teenager in their bedroom, trying on looks, trying to find themselves,’ said Salter.
The Moschino panel featured Mimma Viglezio, Frances Corner, Samuel Bayliss-Ibram, Dominic Jones, and Harriet Verney, chaired by our resident host Daryoush Haj-Najafi. An interesting twist to the evening included two celebrity questions from none other than Jeremy’s PR representative, Kelly Cutrone following some great one liners from the panel, such as Sam’s ‘You can be cheap and chic but this just feels cheap!’ Watch this discussion of Moschino’s place in fashion and history, and the transition from its political roots in Italy to modern day London at the helm of Jeremy Scott.
Last weekend we teamed up with Craig Green to kick off LC:M with a lunch hosted at Ace Hotel, London's Hoi Polloi for a notable guest list including Alexander Fury, Carri Munden, Charlie Porter, Judy Blame, Nicola Formichetti, Astrid Andersen and many more!
The summery lunch provided the perfect start to the season with Nick Knight and Craig Green welcoming guests with a refreshing 'Fantabulosa' cocktail featuring lemongrass, cardamom, gin, cucumber. and splash of Limoncello, or a 'Shoreditch Greens', a cold pressed juice by Lovage, Ace Hotel's resident juice window. This was followed by a fresh, light and green(!) menu featuring new Hoi Polloi summer lunch dishes, which includes Watercress and Lovage soup, blackened sugar snaps, a salad of spelt, asparagus, cow's curd and radish, and salmon with charred cucumber, avocado and soy, followed by strawberries, pink peppercorn meringue and milk ice cream; menus featured an illustration of Craig Green S/S 2014 interpreted by Fiona Gourlay, the original artwork of which is available to purchase from SHOWstudio Shop; resident music maesto Xavier Roide created an exclusive soundscape with his myriad synthesisers, which developed into synth pop with dessert, followed by the lovely Jonjo DJing.
Nick Knight provided his thoughts on the subject of London menswear 'I'm so thrilled to host an event to kick off LC:M. London is the city that pioneers the most dynamic and beautiful menswear, from dandies like Beau Brumell to current designers like Craig Green with his amazing skill for texture and craftsmanship. It feels really like our city is a home of innovation. I'm looking forward to being amazed and inspired by all the great fashion we are going to see over the course of the next week.'
For an expressive take on the London menswear Spring/Summer 2015 collections, check out artist Eduardo Mata Icaza’s new illustrations of the latest runway offerings, this time from J.W. Anderson’s show. For these three depictions, Icaza used the blank yellow color of the untouched canvas as the main silhouette, painting colors around in the dreamy landscapes of waterfalls and hills seen on some of his first looks.
Day three of the London menswear Spring/Summer 2015 collections has some exciting panels in store. The fashion experts will be gathering around the green screen to discuss NEWGEN MEN talent Craig Green, and Beijing based designer Xander Zhou.
Tune in at 12:00 BST as art director and former Haus of Gaga creative director Matt Williams sits down with Clash Magazine creative director Rob Meyers and A Magazine Curated By editor Dan Thawley to discuss the Craig Green show.
Later on, at 15:00 BST, fashion writer Tianwei Zhang, art director at TANK magazine Sohrab Golsorkhi, and LCF's Shaun Cole sit down to discuss the Xander Zhou show.
For more live coverage, take a look at our Collections page now!
We're excited to launch an exclusive interview with CavEmpt designer and co-founder Sk8thing! The chat drops alongside our collaboration with the streetwear brand. With his mysterious public persona and innate understanding of exclusivity, the Japanese designer seldom gives interviews and often appears with his face masked. 'I thought it was more interesting to remain disguised,' he explained to Lou Stoppard, noting the influence of the Phantom of the Opera in his use of secrecy and mystery.
Topics of conversation ranged from building cult brands to the London riots of 2011 and the pros and cons of cultural consumption in the post-internet era. Watch the Sk8thing interview now!
Setting up the venue - three hours to go!
We're excited to exclusively launch Palmer//Harding's S/S 15 film! For their latest collection, shown yesterday, Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding embraced the tension between strength and vulnerability as their design foundation. The resulting collection has been captured in a film shot by Cecilie Harris and starring olympic gymnast Sam Oldham and model Oliver Jones.
The portrayal of the athelete's agility and power in motion expresses a juxtaposition of strength and grace that encapsulates the label's vision of modern masculinity. The effect is further emphasised by Jones' portrayal of 'naive youth liberated in a concrete and steel setting'.
The first of Lou Stoppard's reports from the London menswear S/S 15 shows are in! SHOWstudio's editor has penned frank and fair reviews on the runway offerings of MAN, Astrid Andersen, Topman Design, Matthew Miller, Lou Dalton and more! Her reports give insight into the inspirations of the designers, while assessing the impact of their finished collections and pinpointing their strengths (and weaknesses).
'For S/S 15 the focus was teenagers, as Shannon had been perusing Adrienne Salinger's brilliant nineties book of teens in their bedrooms. It's no secret that a teenager's room is their world, full of posters and relics that capture and display their fragile sense of self and deep felt emotions. The beauty and earnestness of that teen spirit was captured by Shannon perfectly in the collection,' writes Stoppard in her verdict on the Christopher Shannon show.
Read Stoppard's show reviews now on our Collections page, and expect more soon!