Right now, Bart Hess is collaborating with Ruth Hogben on a Punk fashion film live in our studio, Hess is exploring punk's association with metal objects by magnetising pins and chains to make a punk garment, all while Hogben captures on film. Watch now!
Designer Bart Hess, film maker Ruth Hogben and stylist Ellie Grace Cumming are here in the studio making preparations for their shoot today. They are joined by dancer Eric Underwood who will model Hess' latest creation and feature in the team's punk fashion film. Hess will magnetise various chains, studs and clips to create a wearable punk garment while Hogben captures their movement on film. Watch the shoot unfold over two days during a live broadcast from 11:00 BST today and tomorrow.
We're blacking out the studio for tomorrow's punk happenings!
Don't forget to tune in to SHOWstudio tomorrow, 20 August, from 11:00 BST, for a live stream starring the prolific filmmaker Ruth Hogben, designer Bart Hess and stylist Ellie Grace Cumming! The awe-inspiring trio will make their contribution to our Punk film season by creating a garment inspired by punk's association with metal adornments. Watch live!
Our most recent Punk: On the Runway call is Margiela themed, following on nicely from last week's commentary from ShortList's Adrian Clark! While Clark waxed lyrical about the Maison Martin Margiela S/S 93 show, style writer and former Vogue fashion features editor Harriet Quick reminisces about Martin Margiela's haunting catwalk show from the year before, S/S 92.
'Off course he was showing in Paris very much under his own terms', explains Quick. 'The invitations were sent out to guests and press that invited them to go to not a conventional auditorium, but a disused subway in the outskirts of Paris - I'm sure you can imagine everyone's delight!'
The show is an example of Margiela at his best, though it's difficult to find much of a record of it online. Caroline Evans, in her brilliant book Fashion at the Edge, writes, 'Martin Margiela's Spring-Summer 1992 collection was shown in a disused Paris metro station, Saint Martin, that had been out of use since 1939. Its three main stair wells down which the models paraded were lit by 1,600 beeswax candles, stuck by their own wax to the metal handrails. The presentation was entirely new, revolutionary for a catwalk show, yet also old in its evocation of pre-war dereliction and its use of poetic urban spaces. This complex dialogue of past and present also incorporated a vision of the future in that Margiela's innovative way of showing clothes broke new ground in mapping out future possibilities for the catwalk show.'
The latest editorial for Joseph Lally's online magazine Lally Pop 421 is here. We'll shortly be launching a punk film from the image-maker, but in the meantime visit Lally Pop 421 to enter Lally's world...
I once had a good day
my thoughts were clear
and nothing hurt.
The SHOWstudio SHOWcabinet will be transformed this September when we open an exhibition dedicated to exploring the images and objects that defined the punk aesthetic. Curated by Nick Knight, the show includes artworks by Robert Mapplethorpe, Tom of Finland, Jim French and Jamie Reid, photography from Ray Stevenson, Judy Linn, Jonh Ingham, Bob Gruen and Dennis Morris, and personal effects from key punk players, including Vivenne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren, The Clash and more.
The punk aesthetic was coined by relatively few individuals who found inspiration in the detritus of the streets and the deprived working class. The spirit of DIY that infiltrated all aspects of the punk ethos instilled a sense of opportunism in its participants, it encouraged a frank individualism which momentarily allowed a power shift from the privileged few to the impoverished many. While the life time of punk was fleeting, the tenacity with which it attacked the establishment has left an indelible mark on subsequent creative output. It is this that we intend to explore in the show.
A key series of photography arrived today from journalist and photographer Jon Savage. Titled Uninhabited London, the series presents a picture of West Kensington in the late 70's. Savage recognised the impact that the desolate London landscape had on his contemporaries at this time, and documented his surroundings from Westbourne Park Road to Shepherd's Bush spur. He has linked the environment with punk explicitly, saying 'The hyper-speed velocity of the Clash’s early live shows were, in part, an indication of the energy that came from seeing London’s dereliction as an opportunity: the forgotten city as playground.'
The series sets the scene for our upcoming show which opens Wednesday 4 September. We'll reveal further artworks to be included soon.
Admire the intricacy of Carine Gilson's couture lingerie creations with the launch of an edited process film of her LiveStudio! The original stream was the last installment of our Flora series, which also saw Claire Barrow and Piers Atkinson come into the studio to make one-off creations. Flora: Carine Gilson saw the lingerie couturier create a full length sheer negligee embroidered with lace flowers live on camera.
Doyenne of modern, high-end European lingerie, the Belgian designer has been building her eponymous self-titled label for the last twenty-two years. Now boasting luxury boutiques in Brussels, London and Paris, she has grown her signature range to include stockists from Barneys in New York to Lane Crawford in Hong Kong.
You know that phrase, 'she's cut from a different fabric'.
Earlier this year, SHOWstudio launched a major fashion film and animation competition to celebrate this season's theme of Punk. Fashion filmmakers and animators were asked to create a short film featuring a one-off DIY-inspired garment, which also reflected their own personal interpretation of the movement.
This week's winner is photographer Charlene Bagcal! Bagcal is a multi-hyphenate creative. She began her early career as a painter, then later worked as a graphic designer before focusing her career on fashion photography and creative direction.
In 2012, her fashion film, Solace for //SLANG, ranked on the prestigious Fashion Film Network's top 10 film list. This year, her commissioned fashion film, Dreamland for DRESSLAB, was chosen as an Official Selection at the La Jolia Fashion Film Festival.
Watch Bagcal's Sleek film now! The next winners will be released in the upcoming weeks. Stay Tuned.
Designer Bart Hess and film maker Ruth Hogben join forces this summer for SHOWstudio's latest live stream. On Tuesday 20 August and Wednesday 21 August, the pair can be seen creating their contribution to our Punk film season live on SHOWstudio.com. The series has required various creatives to embrace the spirit of DIY in punk and create a garment to feature in a one minute fashion film.
Inspired by punk's association with metal adornments, Hess will be building his garment entirely from studs, pins and chains. Hess is known for creating experimental fabrics that can drastically alter the body when used sartorially, and now he has developed a method of intuitively manipulating the shape and movement of his studs with magnets to create a wearable object. Hogben will capture both the making process and the final garment in a film that embraces punks' prerogative to provoke in a contemporary setting. The final film will be posted on SHOWstudio in the coming weeks and a magnetised accessory by Bart Hess will be available from SHOWstudio Shop.
Tune in to SHOWstudio from 11:00 BST on Tuesday 20 August and Wednesday 21 August to see this dynamic pair in action.
The latest fashion expert to partake in our Punk: On the Runway series is Adrian Clark, editor of ShortList Mode and style director of ShortList. Clark references the Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1993 show as a standout 'punk' moment in fashion, citing its treatment of the fashion press as particularly memorable. 'You can't recreate punk as a style, punk was about an attitude and a time and a reverence. It was an acoustic to what was going on in the establishment,' he explains. 'Punk itself, when it's replicated as a style, seems fake'.
Forget about denim jackets, hair spikes and studs, the S/S 93 Margiela show was more subtle in its subversion. Margiela presented two different collections, one featuring head-to-toe pure white garments and one all-black ensembles. These were shown in different venues and guests were only invited to just one show, to the dismay and confusion of editors and photographers alike. The white collection was shown in a disused hospital in Montmartre, while the black collection was shown in an old house in Pigalle.
Listen to the full story now.
Our latest Punk fashion film comes from image-maker and SHOWstudio alumnus Penny Tu! Tu collaborated with Shao Yen Chen on this poignant piece, which offers a soft, haunting view of punk. 'I am fascinated by the psychology of many great rebellious minds - visionary, delicate and troubled,' explains Tu. 'I wanted to explore that, a different facet of punk, expressing it with emotion and sensibility.'
Adhering to SHOWstudio's commitment to revealing the process behind fashion image-making, we are excited to unravel the research imagery behind War, Nick Knight and Simon Foxton specially-curated issue of Big magazine from 1997. Make sure to head to SHOWstudio's Tumblr throughout the month to discover all the exciting imagery from the dynamic collaboration.
'Frequently the most beautiful and exiting imagery is a technical byproduct of the final image', explains Knight. 'Often it is in these 'mistakes' I am able to explore and pursue visual paths that were previously hidden.'
Check out Behind the Screens now for invaluable insight into key SHOWstudio projects. The gallery includes digitalised images and films from Lady Gaga's infamous Monster Ball tour, as well as 3D scanned images of Ming Xi for Lane Crawford's S/S 2013 collection.