1. by SHOWstudio .

    Sarah Kathryn Cleaver writes about monstrous make-up

    Early this year we launched Ugly, a landmark series that explores fashion's fascination with deliberate awkwardness and vulgarity. The project was inspired by the statement from Miuccia Prada that, 'ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting. Maybe because it is newer,' and features essays by esteemed fashion journalists and a scholarly interview with curator and historian Valerie Steele.

    This week we launch a new essay by writer and SHOWstudio's own editorial assistant Sarah Kathryn Cleaver. The piece focuses on ugliness within beauty trends. Cleaver writes, ‘Isabella Blow’s deliberately lipstick stained teeth, Anna Piaggi’s softly waved turquoise fringe and blotchy doll make-up and Michele Lamy’s gothic, inked forehead, silver teeth and black fingers are all examples of an irrepressible creative drive, expressed using the nearest available media, the skin and the contents of a makeup bag’. 

    Read the rest of this essay and take a look at other insights into fashion’s fetishisation of Ugly

  2. by SHOWstudio .

    See London through Nick Knight's eyes in #MySecretCity

    Our own Nick Knight is giving you the chance to see London through his eyes via a unique collaboration with American Express!

    In 2012 Knight dreamed up Pussycat, Pussycat our first ever Instagram shoot, so it makes sense for American Express to partner with Knight on #MySecretCity, a real time photography exhibition hosted live from London on Twitter. Knight is out and about in London, capturing photos of the hidden inspirations he sees in the places he passes by every day, and sharing them in real time. The Twitter exhibition shows the hidden beauty in these unexpected locations, including city gardens, brutalist architecture, and metropolitan playgrounds to help people realise the full potential of London. 

    ‘We get so stuck in our familiar ways around the city that we miss the sheer beauty and inspiration all around us, which is why I’m working with American Express to celebrate this wonderful city and help people see its hidden beauty,’ says Knight.

    Head over to our Twitter now to watch as Knight posts his snapshots in real time! 

  3. by Marie Schuller .

    A day discussing fashion film at LCF
    Convention & Transgression in Fashion Film

    Yesterday New Medium, Diverse Messages; Convention & Transgression in the Fashion Film, LCF Graduate School's first conference on the subject of fashion film took place at their Central London base.

    The conference discussed the rising genre and screened a variety of work, with early experiments by Guy Bourdin and Blumenfeld, up to the latest and most forward thinking offerings of the world of fashion film, such as Nick Knight's newest film #asif

    Speakers included Nick Rees-Roberts from the University of Bristol discussing films by Guy Bourdin, as well as Hussain Currimbhoy, talking about fashion film as documantary. Speaking about the never ending mystery of what a fashion film actually is, Stephen Whelan from Whitelodge discussed he lack of convention and need for transgression within the genre. Filmmaker Kathryn Ferguson was interviewed by the conference's organiser and initiator, LCF's Nilgin Yusuf and SHOWstudio was represented by Marie Schuller talking about fashion imagery and technology, as well as screening SHOWstudio's most exciting recent film output, including The Elegant Universe and Knight's SS13 Lane Crawford Campaign



  4. by SHOWstudio .

    The Graduates shoot is now over

    We've come to the end of our two day live shoot, but keep your eye on The Graduates project for the fashion film as well as the editorial soon to be published in 1 Granary magazine.

    Over the course of the 1 and 2 July 2014, Nick Knight, Simon Foxton and the 1 Granary team created a shoot that showcased the work of ten graduates from the CSM MA class of 2014. The beautifully crafted menswear and womenswear pieces were modelled by Sang Woo Kim and Alexia Wight, against the understated set-up of the white-painted studio. 

    If you want to see more from the graduate designers, take a look at our Tumblr, where we're posting the groundwork behind the collections featured in the project in the form of sketches, reference images, fabric samples and more!

  5. by SHOWstudio .

    Day two of The Graduates Tumblr takeover

    In tandem with The Graduates shoot, we're curating our Tumblr with the inspiration and groundwork behind each of the featured designers' final collections. Expect inspiration boards, reference imagery, sketches and developmental designs. So far we have looked in detail at the work of textiles sepcialists Fiona Blakeman and Anita Hirlekar and knitwear designer Serena Gili.

    Stay glued to Tumblr for more! And keep watching our live stream today to see us shoot the final pieces.

  6. by SHOWstudio .

    Tune in for day two of The Graduates!

    Day two of The Graduates is underway! Tune back in to watch Nick Knight as he continues to shoot pieces by CSM’s graduating class of 2014.

    The Graduates is a collaborative project between Nick Knight and 1 Granary, the CSM student-run magazine, along with stylist Simon Foxton, to showcase ten of the graduate’s collections in an editorial spread and fashion film. Five graduate's looks remain, today we'll be shooting the work of the menswear graduates on model Sang Woo Kim as well as more womenswear on the lovely Alexia Wight. Watch now!

  7. by SHOWstudio .

    Alexander Fury's couture Tumblr takeover returns!

    This time last year, we handed over creative control of our Tumblr to fashion journalist and SHOWstudio favourite Alexander Fury, who transformed it with couture related imagery. We're thrilled to announce a second installment of his Tumblr takeover, beginning this Sunday, 6 July, to tie in with the Couture A/W 14 shows.

    Sitting beautifully alongside our coverage of the collections, Fury will present a selection of quotes, details and ephemera from the shows in Paris, uploaded as they happen. Be sure to follow this extra special Tumblr curation through couture fashion week. 

  8. by SHOWstudio .

    Comme des Garcons and Henrik Vibskov panels on demand!

    Relive the collections with our panel discussions! If you missed them, or want to re-watch, the Comme des Garcons and Henrik Vibskov panels are now on demand.

    Our resident chair Daryoush Haj-Najafi hosted both panels; the Comme des Garcons Homme Plus panel featured editor Dal Chodha, writer Hywel Davies, creative director Chris Sutton, and editor Adam Chinese Symbol. The group discussed the rise of luxury sportswear. In response to a celebrity question from designer Nasir Mazhar, the panel concluded 'fashion is based on shifts in sociology; we all grew up liking sportswear, so it's difficult to give up'.

    Our Henrik Vibskov panel was made up of special guests art director Fred Butler, creative director Rob Phillips, senior professor David Kappo, and architect John-Michael O’Sullivan. Phillips commented 'He channels a very specific aesthetic. There's almost a lack of sensory experience in the shows'. The panel fielded a celebrity question from the creative director of Chanel, Amanda Harlech, who asked 'does sound become a part of the design process for Vibskov or other designers?'

    Take a look at our menswear collections live panel discussions, spanning London, Milan, and the Paris collections, all available on demand now!

  9. by SHOWstudio .

    The Graduates Tumblr takeover

    This month’s Tumblr takeover ties in with our newest project, The Graduates! The students featured in the live shoot by Nick Knight and Simon Foxton have provided us with evidence of their process; sketches, swatches, mood boards and all of the reference material that led to their final graduate collections. 

    We'e beginning today with Serena Gili, a recent MA Fashion graduate with a focus on knitwear design. Her work gives great attention to fine details, combined with a strong interest towards innovative and unconventional materials.

    Follow the curation on Tumblr to see the groundwork behind the collections and to get some interesting insight into the designers' processes! 

  10. by SHOWstudio .

    Review John Booth's Paris illustrations!

    The final images from our resident Paris Spring/Summer 2015 menswear artist John Booth are live on our Tumblr and within the Collections page!

    Review his depictions of Thom Browne, Paul Smith, Acne, and more! In his vivid and deceptively simple style, Booth plays with proportions - presenting his fashion illustrations on models with comedically small heads and endlessly varies his composition to give an impression of the show space as well as the garments themselves. See the rest of his previous works on Tumblr and on the corresponding Collections pages - and don’t forget, soon Booth’s beautiful illustrations will be available for sale in the SHOWstudio Shop

  11. by SHOWstudio .

    Tune in for The Graduates live streamed shoot!

    Today’s the day! Tune in now for the live steam of the 1 Granary shoot, The Graduates

    Nick Knight will be shooting for Central Saint Martin’s student run magazine, 1 Granary to celebrate the work of the MA design graduates of 2014. Knight will be teaming up with stylist and CSM alum, Simon Foxton, along with the 1 Granary team, to shoot a fashion film and editorial for publication in the second edition of the magazine, an issue which will pay tribute to the legacy of the late Louise Wilson OBE. The shoot will feature menswear and womenswear by ten of the graduates. 

    Tune in now to watch as the shoot gets underway!

  12. by SHOWstudio .

    #Asif film screening tomorrow at LCF

    Our #asif film just launched today - but it will be screened for the first time tomorrow at the LCF by our own head of fashion film Marie Schuller, who is guest speaking at the “New Medium, Diverse Messages; Convention & Transgression in the Fashion Flim” talk! The film will be used as an example of emerging technology in fashion film. 

    Be sure to check out the talk at the LCF tomorrow! More information and tickets can be found on the LCF website

  13. by SHOWstudio .

    The Graduates live shoot tomorrow 1 July

    Tune in for a live shoot tomorrow 1 July, starting at 9:30 BST! Nick Knight is teaming up with 1 Granary, the Central Saint Martins publication, to celebrate and document work by the CSM MA graduates of 2014. 

    With the help of stylist Simon Foxton, Knight will be shooting a live streamed editorial as well as a fashion film, featuring pieces by ten graduates. The editorial will be featured in the second issue of the magazine, which will pay homage to the late Louise Wilson. Tune in on Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd of July to watch The Graduates shoot take place! 

  14. by SHOWstudio .

    Kenzo and Saint Laurent panels available on demand!

    The Paris menswear collections may be over, but you can still review the week with our fantastic live panel discussions, with Kenzo and Saint Laurent now available on demand! 

    Our Kenzo panel featured editor William Oliver, stylist Cobbie Yates, PR exec Natasha Slater, and editor Harriet Quick, calling Kenzo ‘a brand that makes people feel contemporary’, with Slater adding, ‘you feel that you have something special - even though it’s casual and street, it’s recognisable’ 

    The Saint Laurent panel included special guests creative consultant Mimma Viglezio, designer Maarten van der Horst, creative consultant Phil Bush, and art director Becky Smith. Fashion editor Alexander Fury surprised the panel with a celebrity question, simply asking ‘what’s the point?’. Both panels were hosted by our resident chair, Daryoush Haj-Najafi.

    Check out these two panels, on demand now! 

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