SHOWstudio are excited to launch a film by Manny Bonett showcasing menswear from the RCA MA 2014 graduate collections. The fashion film features pieces from the collections of this year's menswear design graduates, seen yesterday, 29 May, on the runway and through our live stream! Watch it now and stay tuned for a womenswear film and footage from the catwalk show!
All month long, Nick Knight has been revisiting the extensive archive from his two decades-long working relationship with Kate Moss, exploring the idea of recontextualising the image of the iconic model. He has revisited some of the most memorable imagery of his career, from Kate in David Bowie's pale blue suit, to the second fashion film he ever made in 1995!
The latest set of images revolve around White Wedding, an Agent Provocateur campaign shot from 2008, during Joe Corré's time at the helm. The elaborate shoot, featuring projections, props, people, animals and artists Jake and Dinos Chapman, has been unravelled by film editor Younji Ku and transformed into imagery that reveals the 'previously unseen building blocks.' Knight says, 'out of all the imagery I created, somehow the vision of Jake Chapman ramming chocolate eclairs into his eye sockets will remain with me forever'.
Continuing our Subjective series, Nick Knight sat down with Liberty Ross to discuss shooting with Mario Testino alongside Kate Moss. The series sees Knight interview top models in an attempt to create a history of contemporary fashion photography from a new perspective.
Recalling Testino's 2001 Burberry campaign, shot while still very early on in her career, Ross describes the busy atmosphere of the Burberry shoots and her feelings about working alongside Kate Moss. 'I was very fresh on the scene, and I'd been a huge admirer of Kate for years, it was really a dream to work with her,' she explains. On being shot by Testino, she explains, 'I was learning. I remember Mario said to me, 'when you walk into the room in the morning Liberty, make sure you say hello to the photographer.' Because I was still like, 'oh I don't know, where do I go!' and I would go to the hairdresser and get my hair done just so I could be doing something!'
I've just found out about these amazing tees through TUMBLR. They are super rare and to get one you'll have to trawl through ebay and try win the bid. But i think they are totally worth it.
The designer, Sehtab Ahmad, also releases amazing visuals on YOUtube to acompany the tees. All round, it's an amazing, futuristic shopping experince, which I'm really loving.
SHOWstudio are collaborating with C.E! Japanese brand CavEmpt have designed a new limited run capsule collection that includes tees and jumpers! We'll be dropping an interview with Sk8thing, an exclusive video by C.E and the clothing collab very shortly!
Oneohtrix Point Never (OPN) have designed the graphic on the tees, which will be sold through SHOWstudio Shop from June 10! The garments are extremely limited run so don't miss out. GET READY!
SHOWstudio is excited to present a Rodarte Fashion Mix! Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the duo behind the romantic and eccentric label, have selected their top tracks to add to our rolling series. Self-confessed geeks, the pair's design process includes personal and cultural references, from film to their experience of growing up in Pasedena, California. Kate Mulleavy even sold her prized record collection to fund their first samples.
It's no surprise then that their playlist is eclectic and exceeds the usual track list of just ten songs! But then who would want to reign the sisters in!? Their 18-track playlist is pure gold! Plug in to the bumper mix, and expect vintage gems from the classic rock of Tom Petty and Joan Jett to the electronic sounds of Kraftwerk and New Order!
On 16 May, SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard teamed up with antique fashion expert Virginia Bates and leading stylist and luxury brand consultant Hannah Teare to speak about current trends in wedding dress design. The talk was held at the V&A to coincide with their Wedding Dresses 1775-2014 exhibition.
The panelists discussed the way in which designs have changed historically while simultaneously preserving elements of past British tradition. They cited a variety of gowns, from Queen Victoria’s flamboyant wedding look, to Kate Middleton’s ‘gala red carpet dress’ by Alexander McQueen and Bianca Jagger’s minimalist retro outfit.
Additionally, they answered questions concerning originality. This involved speaking about why women like to deviate from mundane, conventional mainstream ‘looks’ in order to achieve an authentic appearance on their wedding day.
On-demand footage is now available for those who couldn’t make it down to the V&A.
Our exploration of fashion's fascination with deliberately awkward, uncanny silhouettes, prints and shapes continues with an insightful essay by fashion historian and lecturer Lucy Norris. This new addition to our Ugly series explores the influence of surrealism on the industry’s leading creatives.
Norris discusses the original doyenne of surrealist fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli - ‘It is to her that designers such as Lagerfeld, Kawakubo, Saint Laurent, Prada, Mugler, Lacroix and Gaultier owe their debt' - and unpicks the vision of woman suggested in the work of today's star creatives such as Rick Owens and Christopher Kane.
Other significant questions explored are the cultural aspects of surrealism’s influence on fashion in our present epoch. Norris argues that creativity and innovation in fashion have the power to challenge the thought processes that tell us we should dress a certain way to attract members of the opposite sex.
Read the essay now to find out more about the influence of surrealist art on high fashion or explore of Ugly series as a whole.
The final week of Nick Knight's Kate Moss Month Tumblr curation considers ideas of privacy and intimacy. Searching through his archive from his 20 year working relationship with the iconic model, Knight has revisited 10 by 8 transparencies he shot of Moss, noting 'Looking under these transparencies under a magnifying glass, which I would do to choose them, every pore, every eyelash or every freckle is so crystal clear and so sharp as to make the viewing of it feel almost obscene in its invasion of a person's physical privacy. You never see people like this in life, as your eye cannot focus so close.'
Adding Kate's own words from hours of unedited SHOWstudio interviews to these extreme close-ups, Knight has altered the original material, implying and creating a sense of intimacy with his arrangement of word and image.
The highly anticipated Shaun Leane SHOWcabinet opens to the public today at SHOWstudio Shop! The unique exhibition seeks to give an insight into Leane's creative process, by placing eight bespoke pieces alongside objects which give clues to the inspirations of the house of Shaun Leane. Included in the cabinet of curiosities are a single diamond tusk earring as an ode to Leane's very first creation debuted in Alexander McQueen's collection in 1994, a vibrant gem set butterfly brooch displayed alongside an original Damien Hirst painting, an elaborate pair of feather hoop earrings with a Philip Treacy hat, and some stunning emerald earrings accompanied by a raw, natural emerald named the 'Medusa.' The show also includes a live snake and an antique kimono from the archive of Daphne Guinness!
Drop by 19 Motcomb St to immerse yourself in the psyche of one of the world's most innovative fine artisan jewellers, and visit SHOWstudio Shop now to browse the bespoke pieces!
I am thrilled to be in Finland for Pre Helsinki, a fashion event supported by the Ministry for Foreign Affairs of Finland in collaboration with a range of Finnish creatives. Finland has a rich history of beautiful design work, from the iconic Marimekko 'unikko' print, recognised across the world for its joyful simplicity (and aptly celebrating its 50th birthday this year), to the output of younger, upcoming creatives like Satu Maaranen, who won last year's fashion design prize at the 2013 Hyères festival. While here, we've been privileged to get to see some of this work up-close. A highlight was visiting fashion designer Vuokko Nurmesniemi's house, which was built by her late husband, acclaimed designer Antti Nurmesniemi and is perhaps one of the most wonderful pieces of sixties residential architecture in existence. 83-year-old Nurmesniemi was kind enough to regale us with stories from her long career in fashion, discussing how she's influenced everyone from Raf Simons and Issey Miyake to a whole generation of young Finnish designers. Nurmensniemi's work, both at Marimekko and at her own label Vuokko, was truly revolutionary and ahead of its time and helped establish the reputation of Finland as a design centre in the fifties. Nurmensnimi pioneered dresses made out of one piece of fabric, large prints and clean, futuristic shapes and freed women from corsets and general design fuss. What an icon!
My schedule also included a visit to the Marimekko textile printing factory, which allowed me a peek at the brand's wonderfully-named 'Colour Kitchen' where they dream up their iconic hues. While watching the bold prints come to life, it was impossible not to reflect on how progressive and exciting the brand was when it debuted cheerful androgynous shapes and unconventional patterns in the fifties and sixties, designs that set new parameters of taste. It's great to see that the brand is now championing new design talent, as Maaranen herself was working in the factor as a freelance designer.
One of the main reasons I came to Helsinki was to partake in the Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar, which took place in the middle of our schedule at Aalto University and was titled 'For Fa$hion's S@ke'. I was honoured and thrilled to be co-chairing the discussion alongside the seminar's guest curator Dan Thawley from A Magazine Curated By. Our lineup of speakers was second to none - milliner (and SHOWstudio favourite) Stephen Jones, LCF's brilliant dean Frances Corner, designer Lutz Huelle, sound designer Michel Gaubert and his partner and collaborator Ryan Aguilar. There was one notable absentee, the wonderful and fearsome Professor Louise Wilson, who sadly passed away last weekend. Naturally, we dedicated the talk to her memory, and kept in mind all the insightful, witty and cutting remarks she would have made had she been able to join us as we discussed how fashion has got so fashionable. The 3 hour plus discussion saw us navigate topics such as the difference between 'consumption' and 'fashion', the way Instagram has revolutionised both shopping and design, the accessibility of 'high fashion' and the paradox of 'affordable luxury'. It was a truly brilliant discussion and I'm thrilled that footage of it will be available on SHOWstudio shortly! A highlight for me was spending a part of the talk sporting Stephen Jones' brilliant 'Interview' hat, which features a mini screen that can display a hat of your choice, whether a bowler, top hat or cap. Truly the best example of wearable tech I've come across - move over smart watches!
The soon-to-be-released What Would Julia Do is a collection of images taken by photographer Rebecca Thomas, assembled in the form of a documentary photographic essay focusing on her friend and noteable figure, Princess Julia.
This is not the first time Princess Julia, crowned by the club kids for her nightlife endevaours, has had her striking personality and appearance captured. She has been a name of recognition since her early 1980s participation of the Blitz Kids club scene and hanging around with people from Marc Almond to Boy George. Princess Julia, as the creator of this photographic journal puts it, 'glides through the worlds of fashion, music, art and ‘general frippery’. She has been a DJ, model, muse, musician, writer and curator. She is a totem of, tribute to and inspiration for London’s underground artistic endeavours.'
Consequently, the pages of Thomas' What Would Julia Do are filled with Princess Julia's antics and adventures, featuring members of London's creative scene such as Pam Hogg, Judy Blame and Dinos Chapman. A resulting selection of glossy yet candid, amusing and thoroughly intriguing images available this May!
In the meantime meander through some of our fashion Collections panel discussions such as Roksanda Illincic and Rick Owens A/W 14 - with Princess Julia in the chair (and cameo's from her cover star dog Barney) there's never a dull opinion.
The wait is nearly over as SHOWstudio Shop's Shaun Leane exhibition opens to the public tomorrow 23 May 2014! At a private view this morning, Shaun Leane himself revealed the inspirations behind the latest SHOWcabinet. Leane spoke of an interest in the history of Cabinets of Curiosities, which the curation of the show reflects, as well as the inspiration he derived from each piece. On Damien Hirst's Psalm 136: Confitemini he explained 'it's so full of life but also about death' echoing the codes of his house; a fascination with fleeting beauty and nature.
Our own Nick Knight also contributed a few words, explaining the motivation behind displaying Leane's work alongside the art and artefacts that inspire it 'SHOWstudio has always been about showing how artists work in conversation with one another'.
Visit 19 Motcomb St from tomorrow to experience the exhibition, which features bespoke pieces by Leane alongside artefacts that inspire it including the original Damien Hirst, a piece from the archive of Daphne Guinness, a raw natural emerald and more!
Subjective is the latest series instigated by Nick Knight to explore the history of contemporary fashion photography through the eyes of those who are at the centre of the image, but often left voiceless - the models. So far, Knight has sat down with Kate Moss who opened up about working with Corrine Day and Kristen McMenamy who spoke about creating images with Helmut Newton.
The next iconic individual to share her stories from all sides of the lens is Lily Cole. Knight intially chats with Cole about the notion of learning to model, to which she responds, 'I think it's quite intuitive; I wouldn't instinctively call it a skill but I think you do get better at it from practising but in quite a natural way. You can't study it.'
This follows on to centre around a photograph Steven Meisel took of Cole for Vogue Italia in July 2003, when the British model was just fifteen. She shares working with Meisel, his attention to every detail in her body and face that leads to creating one of the images that undeniably launched her international career, whilst still at school. 'He's very good at finding nuances... particular but gentle.'
We're excited to launch a new fashion film by filmmaker and frequent SHOWstudio contributor Laura Falconer! Ripple was shot during Taiwanese-born fashion designer and Central Saint Martins MA graduate ShaoYen's A/W 14 presentation at London Fashion Week and showcases pieces from his collection. To correspond with ShaoYen's conceptual starting point of 'a single water drop onto a sheer slither of translucent water', Falconer used lighting and projections on top of a dream-like set, designed by Rain Wu & Clio Capeille. The result? An ethereally beautiful depiction of ShaoYen's rich, flowing collection.