We have a new Fashion Mix! SHOWstudio invites fashion’s elite to compile a playlist of their ‘greatest hits’ to celebrate the link between music and fashion. Our mixes feature designers, models, journalists and photographers, and this week’s playlist is curated by journalist and editor of British GQ, Dylan Jones! Get a blast from the past with Bowie, The Clash and The Beach Boys. This playlist is perfect for summer weather! Turn it up.
We are happy to announce Yasuto Kimura as the winner of the SHOWstudio prize at ITS Trieste 2014!
The designer who's collection comes from a Japanese cultural and historical background, challenges the conventions of business wear, redefining the working men's outfit with a sense humor and functionality. The SHOWstudio prize will enable Kimura to create a fashion film of his collection together with the SHOWstudio team and under the mentorship of Nick Knight himself. The featured garments will also be made available in the SHOWstudio Shop.
Further winners of the contest that ended last night with the design finalists' fashion show as well as the award ceremony were Katherine Roberts-Wood who took home the prize of Collection of the Year, as well as CSM schooled Anita Hirlekar, who was awarded the Fashion Special Prize.
RCA graduate Zoe Waters won the Diesel prize, consisting of a 6-month internship with Nicola Formichetti and his team, on top of a cash prize of no less than € 25,000.
SHOWstudio congratulates all the winners and is looking forward to translate Kimura's creativity and talent into a fashion film.
For more than 10 years, International Talent Support has taken place in the beautiful Northern Italian town of Trieste. The event focuses on continuously discovering and supporting fashion and accessory designers, and has previously worked with Mark Fast, Peter Pilotto, Aitor Throup, James Long and Astrid Andersen, amongst others. Now in its 13th year, the creative platform and fashion contest directed by Barbara Franchin retruns stronger than ever, handing out cash prizes amounting to almost €100,000 to the lucky finalists, as well as a range of lucrative job opportunities.
We are excited to be return to Trieste for a second year where our very own Marie Schuller will represent SHOWstudio on the fashion jury. Also judging the 10 fashion design finalists will be Style Bubble's Susie Lau, Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni, Floriane de Saint Pierre, and Diesel Artistic Director Nicola Formichetti who will award a €25,000 cash prize plus a 6-month internship with Diesel's Creative Team.
Although not present in Trieste, SHOWstudio's director Nick Knight will still be casting his vote! In addition to his jury services, Knight will award a special SHOWstudio prize to his chosen finalist; a fashion film of the winner's collection.
Stay tuned to hear news from the event and details of the winner announcement tomorrow evening!
You may remember our editor, Lou Stoppard, posting about her trip to Helsinki, Finland. While she was there, she partook in the Aalto Arts Fashion Seminar at Aalto University, co-charing a talk titled For Fa$hion’s S@ke, which we are launching the footage of today!
The panel had a fantastic lineup of speakers, many of whom are frequent SHOWstudio panelists as well! The discussion was co-chaired and curated by editor of A Magazine Curated By Dan Thawley, and featured LCF’s dean Frances Corner, milliner Stephen Jones, designer Lutz Huelle and sound designer Michel Gaubert, along with his partner and collaborator Ryan Aguilar. The talk was dedicated to the late Professor Louise Wilson, who was scheduled to attend but passed away just a few days before. The seminar focused on the accessibility of high fashion, the way technology and social media has revolutionalised shopping and design and the paradox of ‘affordable luxury’, amongst many other topics.
We’ve got more exclusive content on our Collections page!
Maison Martin Margiela tapped into the creative world of Instagram! Graphic designer Adrien Brunel and filmmaker Adriano Valerio - two artists who both have a curiosity for the unconventional and an eye for the abstract - offer an unusual look behind-the-scenes at the Artisinal collection via the photo sharing app.
Brunel captured beautiful black and white shots of the models in masks, captioning them 'The Very Fabric of Dreams', while Valerio got coloured off-centered shots, several from behind the models, to offer a different view. Be sure to check out their work on our Collections page, and don’t forget to follow Brunel and Valerio on Instagram!
The Maison Martin Margiela panel saw editor Harriet Quick, writer Bel Jacobs, and designer and lecturer Heather Sproat discussing the vintage-to-couture collection. ‘Haute couture is the purest form of fashion as art,’ said Sproat, with Jacobs adding, ‘I love the idea of taking something old and valuing it.'
The Vionnet panel featured couturier Deborah Milner, V&A curator Oriole Cullen, and Somerset House curator Shonagh Marshall, who sat down to discuss the idea of ‘demi-couture’ and Hussein Chalayan's role at the heritage house. Both panels were chaired by SHOWstudio’s own editor, Lou Stoppard.
Relive the collections and learn from the experts with all of our fantastic on-demand panels now!
Today, 10 July, we are launching the next segment of Subjective, a series of interviews conducted by Nick Knight that explore the history of contemporary fashion photography as told from the subjects’ perspectives. This week’s interview is with Lily Cole, who discusses her experience being shot in the nude by Terry Richardson for The Pirelli Calendar.
The picture is of a nude Cole submerged underwater, shot from the naval up, with her arms crossed beneath her exposed breasts. As Knight points out, the image is ‘surprisingly romantic’ given Richardson's usual style. Cole paints a different image of Richardson than that which has been publicised recently - he has come under attack for misogyny and manipulation - saying ‘I like Terry a lot; I think he’s a sweetheart, a funny guy… he’s quite shy.' Due to a miscommunication between agent and publication, Richardson had planned to shoot Cole fully nude, something she was uncomfortable with, so the resulting image is a stripped back version of the original plan; ‘the picture felt quite safe,’ she says.
We’ve been lucky to have artist Stephen Doherty in the studio for the past few days, creating a gorgeous mural on the studio wall, which depicts different looks straight from the couture collections.
See Doherty’s work in person at CAVE tonight, for the opening of Waiting in Now, an exhibition showcasing a new series of figures by Doherty that touch on themes of wilful distraction, wonderment, desire and restlessness. The exhibition features a collection of blue drawings made in the build up to Doherty’s S/S 15 collection.
Be sure to head over to CAVE to see the incredible designs in person, and in the meantime, be sure to tune in to our camera to watch Doherty finish the studio mural!
We were thrilled to welcome a host of brilliant panelists into the studio to discuss the couture A/W 14 collections, including Judith Watt, James Sherwood and Amber Butchart who unpicked Schiaparelli by Marco Zanini. The experts discussed the difficulties of reviving a heritage house, 'It's tricky to get that heritage correct without becoming cartoonish,' concluded chair Lou Stoppard.
Lucy Norris, Verity Parker and Kerry Taylor joined Lou Stoppard to unpick Dior, musing on Raf Simons' suitability as creative director of the legendary house. 'It's a marriage made in heaven,' said Norris. Topics also ranged from the importance of a working archive to the sense of appropriateness currently seen in fashion.
Our special guests for Chanel, Caroline Charles, Hilary Alexander, Grace Woodward and Frances Corner, spoke about the modernisation of haute couture. The Ulyana Sergeenko discussion, featuring Hilary Alexander, Djurdja Bartlett and Anastasiia Fedorova, revolved around the emerging Russian fashion industry.
Tune in today, 8 July, for our final live panels of the A/W 14 Couture collections!
Then at 16:30 BST we're rounding up our haute couture conversations with a dissection of the Vionnet collection. We're welcoming V&A curator Oriole Cullen, curator Shonagh Marshall and designer Deborah Milner to the golden chairs to share their thoughts on the show.
Keep up with our coverage from the rest of the Couture shows over on our Collections page.
OFF-WHITE’s A/W 14 collection is now available at SHOWstudio Shop! Founded by Virgil Abloh the OFF-WHITE collection features t-shirts and hoodies with a Carravaggio print, these are then accompanied by long sleeved t-shirts, shorts and socks all branded with bold, monochrome graphics.
Alexander Fury's Tumblr takeover is in full swing! The journalist extraordinaire is showcasing the hidden details of couture, from candid shots of fittings to intricate details of beadwork and the insides of structured dresses. Fury has been filling our Tumblr with content from the current A/W 14 collections as well as past seasons, vintage ephemera and quotes from the designers, revealing a rare insight into the secret world of Haute Couture.
We have what are sure to be two extremely interesting panels in store for day 3 of the Couture collections!
Then be sure to tune back in at 15:30 BST for our next panel on Russian couturier Ulyana Sergeenko, featuring writer Hilary Alexander, Djurdja Bartlett and writer Anastasiia Fedorova. Both panels will be chaired as usual by SHOWstudio’s own editor Lou Stoppard!
Each Collections season, we invite an artist-in-residence to illustrate the catwalk. But we’ve added a twist especially for the Haute Couture A/W 14 shows. London based artist Stephen Doherty is currently in the studio creating a wall of his runway depictions to feature as the backdrop for this round of panel discussions. Doherty will fill in his figures with looks from selected shows as the collections continue, creating a more complete picture each time!
Tune in now and through-out Couture fashion week to watch a live stream of Doherty at work. There will be purchasable items by Doherty available in the SHOWstudio Shop later on - so stay tuned for more on that!
Fury has been posting up a storm of exquisite imagery and content from current and past couture seasons, including quotes from designers along with photographs of fittings, close-ups of garment details, drawings, mood boards, and everything else that goes into creating the most complex collections in fashion. Check it out this rare perspective on the couture shows.
Keep checking back throughout the week to follow Fury’s curation.
SHOWstudio is proud to present the world exclusive of a new film by Marina Abramovic and adidas. The short is the first ever re-staging of Abramovic’s iconic 1970s performance Work Relation. The performance is re-imagined through the lens of the 2014 FIFA World Cup™ and explores the parallels between sport and performance. We interviewed Abramovic prior to the launch and found out some more about the affinities she finds between the two disciplines.
Niamh White: There are many parallels between your performance art and sport- commitment, perseverance, endurance, selfless-ness, collaboration, discipline, pain. What are the most important similarities for you? Can one learn from the other?
Marina Abramovic: One similarity between performance and sport that I wanted to highlight in this video is the importance of group collaboration. When Ulay and I originally performed the piece Work Relation in 1978, the power of collective strength came through in the performance. I believe that it is important to learn from other disciplines in order to bring new life to whatever it is that you do. This is something at the heart of my institute, MAI, and something that I felt was important to convey in this video, which was itself a collaborative project.
Niamh White: You often ask your performers and participants to wear lab coats, as though they are a kit or uniform. Why have you chosen to do this?
Marina Abramovic: I ask the performers to wear lab coats to create a sense of collective experimentation. A willingness to experiment and risk failure is what allows for growth, both on an individual level and on the level of the collective. The lab coats also mute external distractions such as bright clothing, which can deepen the internal focus of the performers. When participants perform the Abramovic Method at MAI, they will be asked to wear lab coats for these reasons, as well as to create a temporary community with those who are experiencing the work together.
Watch the video in its entirety exclusively on SHOWstudio now!