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  1. by SHOWstudio .

    The latest Ugly contribution: an essay by Harriet Walker

    Recently, we kicked off our Ugly project, which unpicks fashion's fascination with deliberately 'ugly' aesthetics. So far, we've live streamed a fashion film shoot featuring fashion by Christopher Kane, J.W Anderson, Margiela and more, and launched an enthralling discussion between SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard and director and chief curator of The Museum at the Institute of Fashion Technology, Valerie Steele. Next to take the garish baton is writer Harriet Walker.

    The NeverUnderDressed.com fashion features director initially assesses society's obsession with perfection, dissecting everything from Spanx to selfies. 'We go to the ends of the Earth to find our best angles. Sometimes we get a little help sharpening them too,' she writes. However, Walker sees a countermovement appearing. 'What we see increasingly, both on the catwalk and the pavement, is a willingness in high-end and high street shoppers alike to reconsider the archetypal precepts of female dress,' she argues.

    Walker's essay is an astute analysis, contributing to our on-going exploration of all things repulsive and all those who are repelled. Read her brilliant piece now and stay tuned for more in the series from fashion historian Lucy Norris and The Independent's Alex Fury.

  2. by SHOWstudio .

    Watch experts talk fashion education

    SHOWstudio is proud to be teaming up with The Royal College of Art for the second year running to celebrate their MA graduate fashion show, which features work by menswear, womenswear, knitwear and millinery graduates and will be streamed live on SHOWstudio on 29 May.

    In preparation for the show and to provide a useful resource for our student viewership, SHOWstudio streamed a live panel discussion on the topic of fashion education on 12 May. The line-up included RCA's Wendy Dagworthy, fashion journalist Iain R. Webb, and designers and RCA alumni Matthew Miller and Holly Fulton, as well as our own Lou Stoppard. The talk was particularly poignant as it times with Professor Dagworthy's retirement from her position as head of fashion at the RCA. During her time at the RCA, and before that Central Saint Martins, Dagworthy has taught some of the fashion industry's most acclaimed names, from Stella McCartney and Hussein Chalayan to Giles Deacon and Erdem. She was also instrumental in the establishment the first incarnation of London Fashion Week. Dagworthy and the rest of the panel chatted animately about the ways London's colleges have changed over time, the way to make the most of a degree and the way in which tuition fees and budget cuts have affected arts education. Watch on-demand footage of the panel now.

  3. by SHOWstudio .

    Our J.W Anderson Design Download winner is...

    For our tenth Design Download - launched as a special Christmas gift to viewers - J.W. Anderson offered up not one but two patterns. The designer invited our viewers to reinterpret the leather top and balloon skirt from his acclaimed A/W 13 collection by downloading the patterns, printing them off and then fashioning a whole new look. Budding creatives from around the world took part, with entries coming in from places such as Singapore, Los Angeles, Sydney and Melbourne. Today, 19 May, after much deliberation from Nick Knight and J.W himself (our esteemed judges), we are thrilled to announce that the winner of the competition is…Ryan Rodriguez. Rodriguez is currently a student at Central Saint Martins. His concept for the Design Download was to use the pattern to make a garment that allows the wearer to adapt the shape of the garment's silhouette freely in every way. By loosely weaving Chinese silk, poly latex and cotton, then connecting all the ends to toggles, Rodriguez made garments that allow the wearer to pull at any toggle to adjust the garment vertically and horizontally, creating countless silhouettes and line variations. His pieces will now star in a specially commissioned SHOWstudio fashion film. Congrats Ryan and well done to all who entered!

  4. by SHOWstudio .

    Nick Knight's second ever fashion film!

    Nick Knight dug deep into his archive to pull out his second ever fashion film! The film's launch coincides with our Kate Moss month on Tumblr and explores society's obsession with images of celebrities and our voyeuristic tendencies when it comes to icons. The film was shot in 1995 during Knight's first ever session working with Moss, who was twenty years old at the time and fast becoming a worldwide star. It features footage from security cameras - a nod to the debate and controversy that surrounded surveillance culture at the time of filming - and presents Moss going about a normal day, from waking up to visiting a Madison Avenue studio to returning home. It is only as the film progresses that the viewer realises he is watching Moss from a stalker's perspective in a sinister play on anonymity, fame and privacy. The work was edited at the time by friend and collaborator Jason Evans (Travis).

    Watch The More Visible They Make Me, The More Invisible I Become now!

  5. by Lou Stoppard .

    Rest in Peace Louise Wilson

    All of us at SHOWstudio are saddened to hear of the death of Louise Wilson. Officially, Louise was professor of fashion design at Central Saint Martins, but in reality she was so much more. She was a visionary, an educator who never took the easy route and taught her students just enough to get them through a degree, but instead sought to completely upturn the way they thought, reprogramming their creative brains. By doing that Louise changed the lives of most of her students. She pushed countless figures across fashion to create their best work and find their vision through a mixture of wit, aggression and, frankly, unbridled mania. I studied under Louise. It was a privilege. She was utterly fearless and totally uncompromising - my favourite kind of woman. There are nowhere near enough words to describe the great debt the fashion world owes her. This interview with Hywel Davies from 2011 is a fine reminder of her passion and brilliance. Rest in piece Louise - you achieved so much.

  6. by SHOWstudio .

    Joseph Lally's Soap Opera: The final episode!

    For the past months Joseph Lally has entertained and shocked us in equal measure with his Soap Opera series, taking fashion film to an extreme with his exploration of taboos from suicide to sexuality and fascism. Today we launch the finale, aptly entitled Money Shot.

    Lally's final episode takes tounge-in-cheek inspiration from the conventions of pornography, euphemistically censoring the sexual imagery with visual puns of dollar bills and fireworks. In his own words 'The money shot is that which arrests the eyes and seduces the senses.' Enjoy the filmmaker's farewell to Soap Opera, complete with his signature use of black and white and beautiful boys.

    Watch Money Shot now!

  7. by SHOWstudio .

    The more visible they make me...
    The latest from Nick Knight's archive

    'I like obsessiveness.' So begins Nick Knight explanation of the latest set of images in his month-long Kate Moss Tumblr curation. Counting down to the release of the second fashion film he ever made, the photographer is posting gifs from the same shoot, his first with the model, all the way back in 1995!

    The work is entitled The more visible they make me, the more invisible I become and features a 20 year old Kate Moss. It was shot on a security camera at a time when surveillance culture was just beginning and a topic of controversy. The medium and its subject combine to make a powerful statement about celebrity, voyerism and the fashion photographer. 

    Follow the curation, and stay tuned for the fashion film!

  8. by SHOWstudio .

    Enter The Elegant Universe now!

    Earlier this year, Nick Knight embarked on a live fashion shoot with the help of couture doyenne Lady Amanda Harlech who styled incredible S/S 14 haute couture pieces from the likes of Chanel, Valentino and Margiela, on model and physics scholar Alexia Wight

    The trio sought to create a mathematical universe out of each piece, resulting in a stunning, delicate fashion film, created with the help of SHOWstudio video editor Younji Ku. Ku combined 3D scans of each look with the editorial work - which will appear in print in V magazinealongside audio of Wight discussing the intricacies of physics.

    The project was about exploring different dimensions,' Knight explains. 'I wanted to juxtapose what I, the photographer saw, against what the computer saw. When I look at the couture I see certain things that are useful or beautiful to me, just like when the computer captures the couture it also sees something that's useful to it, but that view is totally different.'

    Explore The Elegant Universe now and be sure to delve into the process by re-visiting un-cut footage from the two day shoot!

  9. by SHOWstudio .

    Shaun Leane interview is up on-demand!

    The latest fashion legend to take a chair and open up for our In Fashion series was acclaimed avant-garde jeweller Shaun Leane

    In the candid interview, Leane went into detail about how he embarked on his career as a goldsmith, disclosing how his impeccable eye for detail and fascination with objects led him to progress quicker than most during his seven year apprenticeship at Hatton Garden. 'I was making tiaras by the age of eighteen,' Leane laughs. Leane went on open up about his long-time friend and collabotor Alexander McQueen whom he worked with for 10 years after first collaborating on the groundbreaking Highland Rape show in 1995. 

    This is an interview not to miss - watch the uncut on-demand footage now! 

    To see the work of Leane upclose, be sure to visit our upcoming SHOWstudio Shop exhibition, which opens to the public on 23 May 2014. The display will showcase eight bespoke pieces created exclusively by Leane, alongside inspirational works from Damien Hirst, Philip Treacy and more! 

  10. by SHOWstudio .

    Nick Knight interviews Kristen McMenamy

    SHOWstudio is thrilled to have kicked off a landmark new interview series that explores the history of contemporary fashion photography as told from the subjects' perspectives. When envisaging Subjective, Knight sought to empower models by putting their oft-unheard stories in the spotlight. Today, 14 May, we turn to the work on the late great Helmut Newton. Iconic model Kristen McMenamy discusses working with Newton for American Vogue, describing his precision over body hair and unexpected conservatism. Watch her in conversation with Knight now, or revisit the first interview in the series, which sees Kate Moss discuss Corinne Day.

  11. by SHOWstudio .

    SHOWstudio speaks at Decoded!

    Yesterday, editor Lou Stoppard and digital art director Jon Emmony spoke about SHOWstudio's pioneering work at fashion and tech conference Decoded. Other speakers included Mary Katrantzou, Lulu Guinness and Henry Holland, alongside representatives from Facebook, ASOS and Net-a-Porter, plus many others.

    The Decoded Fashion Summit launched in 2012 as the first global event series and networking community encouraging entrepreneurship and advancing innovation in fashion and retail. Its events are based in New York, London and Milan and include summits, tech expos, startup competitions and hackathons for fashion.

    Stoppard and Emmony were at the event to talk about our recently-launched virtual shop experience, created in collaboration with MACHINE-A. They discussed the desire to celebrate icon bricks and mortar spaces using digital technologies, allowing a global audience to experience an iconic London store, and explained the creative process, from scanning the store using an iPhone to building the model in Cinema4D.

    Check out the interactive for yourself!

  12. by SHOWstudio .

    Sarah Burton, Steven Klein and Vivienne Westwood support Russia's LGBTI community

    This year, London Fashion Week timed with the Winter Olympics held in Sochi, Russia. SHOWstudio and long-time collaborator Gareth Pugh teamed up with Amnesty international in their fight against the prejudice and violence directed towards the Russian LGBTI community.

    We asked members of the fashion industry and creative community - designers, artists, stylists, models, writers, singers, actors, filmmakers and editors - to show their opposition to the intolerance by taking part in individual 'protest films' that, together as a series, form one united voice - an overwhelming voice that says, 'Love is a human right.'

    While the games are over, we have continued to recruit more and more people to join the protest. The latest additions to the project include huge names such as Sarah Burton, Andreas Kronthaler, Marios Schwab, Steven Klein and Vivienne Westwood. We are honoured and thrilled that such acclaimed, busy creatives have given their time to support the cause.

    Keep following the protest.

  13. by SHOWstudio .

    Kate Moss Month continues!

    Nick Knight continues his Kate Moss Month Tumblr curation with a look back at a Vogue story he shot with the model back in 2003. Prefaced with the simple introduction, 'Kate modelling David Bowie's pale blue suit from his Life On Mars? music video. Beautiful', this week's series of imagery is a selection of behind-the-scenes gifs and grainy shots, which verge from the ethereal to the humorous. 

    Keep following our Tumblr for more Kate Moss as you've never seen her!

  14. by SHOWstudio .

    Shaun Leane In Fashion. Tune in today!
    Watch the interview at 12:00 BST

    Tune in to SHOWstudio’s In Fashion series for a live interview today, where our own editor Lou Stoppard will meet with acclaimed Avant-Garde jeweller Shaun Leane. The discussion will be streamed at 12:00 BST. 

    Shaun embarked upon his career at the tender age of fifteen when he trained at London’s jewellery center, Hatton Garden. He has since flourished into a fully accomplished jeweller and was awarded 'UK Luxury Jewellery Designer of the Year' in 2006 and 2009.

    His stylistic qualities are premised on the notion of fusing the past with the present. Leane’s design conception consists of keeping alive historical British tradition while simultaneously adding a modern, cutting-edge approach. ‘We cannot look to the future of design without remembering our past,’ he says. 

    The interview looks set to answer some interesting questions concerning one of the UK’s most exciting, homegrown artisans. Watch live at 12:00 BST!

  15. by SHOWstudio Shop .

    SHOWstudio x AMBUSH jewellery

    SHOWstudio shop is collaborating with design collective AMBUSH! Partners in work and life, Yoon and Verbal set up AMBUSH in Tokyo in 2002. Yoon states that, 'We didn’t see what we wanted in the market so we decided to make the jewels ourselves. Everything we do has a DIY spirit and intertwines with each other.' From there the company has grown from strength to strength with supporters including Kanye West and Pharell Williams.  

    We are excited to announce that the SHOWstudio x AMBUSH capsule collection will drop on Friday 16 May! Visit SHOWstudio Shop on Friday to snap up your limited SHOWstudio ID bracelets and hats!

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