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  1. by SHOWstudio .

    New to Girly: Morna Laing unpicks Meadham Kirchhoff!

    The latest addition to our Girly project is an essay on Meadham Kirchhoff’s S/S 12 collection, A Wolf in Lamb’s Clothing, penned by the London College of Fashion’s Morna Laing! 

    Recognising that the representation of the ‘woman-child’ in fashion often serves as a signifier or symbol for the times we live in, Laing considers the roles of the London label's famed S/S 12 collection’s ‘pastel-clad Courtney-Love-alikes’ and ‘pirouetting girl-child ballerinas.' She argues that Meadham Kirchhoff’s re-appropriation of the kinderwhore aesthetic amounts to a cunning political message and that the collection ‘can be understood as an instance of same-sex drag: exaggerating the contradictory demands of ideal femininity; betraying its constructed-ness; subverting it from within.’

    Read her essay in full and be sure to revisit past essays and interviews in the Girly series. The project includes a fashion film by Nick Knight and Rei Nadal which features key Meadham Kirchhoff pieces.

  2. by SHOWstudio .

    A dose of Helen Bullock

    Luxury womenswear designer Phoebe English and illustrator and textile designer Helen Bullock first met during their time at Central Saint Martins. For English's S/S 15 collection, shown in September 2014 at London Fashion Week, the two friends collaborated for the first time. The resulting collection combined English's precise, hand-crafted aesthetic with Bullock's tactile 'prints', inspired by the idea of destroyed florals. 

    Bullock has also shared with us her depictions of looks from the S/S 15 fashion weeks in her signature spontaneous style. Enjoy her expressive takes on runway ensembles from the likes of Tom FordJ.W. AndersonMarc Jacobs and Meadham Kirchhoff, and visit the SHOWstudio Shop to own one of her bold pieces!

  3. by SHOWstudio .

    Claudia Maté's Tumblr takeover has begun!
    1 - 7 November

    As part of our monthly tradition of giving a guest creative free reign over the SHOWstudio Tumblr, we're handed over the page to artist Claudia Maté for a week starting today, Saturday 1 November!

    The Spanish-born, London-based artist's portfolio features a myriad of online projects where she experiments with different programming languages and 3D software. Maté is best known for her work on Cloaque.org with Carlos Sáez, a seamless Tumblr-based collaborative collage, or ‘digital landfill’. Engaging with new ideas about our visual culture and the language of the internet, Maté’s other projects range from Sweet Finances!, an installation exploring the artistry of commodity markets, to her David Bowie GIFs, created in response to the V&A exhibition. 

    So far Maté has been posting manipulated versions of images by the likes of Steve McCurry (above), Mario Testino, Tyrone Lebon and more. Check it out!

  4. by Marie Schuller .

    Punk Love!
    Marcos Mello's SHOWstudio film now in colour

    Do you remember Marcos Mello's award winning film for SHOWstudio's Punk fashion film series in 2013? The forward thinking piece, entitled Punk Love, which features Brazilian models Alicia Kuczman and Isabel Hickman surrounded by the unique motion design of light painting, has now been reworked in colour. The new version takes Mello's light paintings to the next level and you can watch it here.

    Revisit the entire SHOWstudio Punk series to watch work by Judy Blame, Ruth Hogben and Erica Schreiner, to name but a few. 

  5. by Lou Stoppard .

    Help Save A Piece of Photographic History

    Islington Council are trying to shut down brilliant darkroom BDI to build luxury flats. Please sign this petition to help save this small business and place of photographic history!

    BDI, located in the Redbrick Estate, is the place where Nick Knight pioneered a new form of colour photography, creating super bright images, while working on the Yohji Yamamoto catalogues back in 1985. It was only thanks to the open-mindedness of BDI's Brian Dowling that the method was ever invented and since then BDI has worked on numerous iconic fashion campaigns and editorials with photographers such as Glen Luchford, Craig McDean, Corinne Day, and Davids Sims. It's not really an overstatement to say that BDI helped change the way the world is coloured. Today BDI is still thriving despite technological and digital developments and is one of the few places where students from schools such as Central Saint Martins, the Royal College of Art and East London College can go and learn about traditional photographic hand printing. Please show your support.

    Recent comments

    1. Mariam
      08:05 1 Nov 2014
      Save the creativity
    2. Joe Stephens
      23:45 2 Nov 2014
      This is an outrage.
    3. SHOAIB bukhari
      10:29 8 Nov 2014
      Fuck flats that no one can afford. This is so much more important.
    Comment
  6. by SHOWstudio .

    A new essay by Bertie Brandes!

    Our Girly project continues with a new essay from journalist and Mushpit founder Bertie Brandes! Whilst the series took key A/W 14 piece - from Ryan Lo's tutus to Meadham Kirchhoff's frocks - as its starting point, S/S 15 was a landmark season when considering fashion's relationship with feminism. Shows like Chanel and Moschino couldn't have come at a more apt time when analysing the 'Girly' vogue.

    Focusing on the the commodification of feminism and the dichotomy that often exists between fashion and the feminist movement, Brandes deconstructs the hyper-feminine aesthetic, citing work by designers like Meadham Kirchhoff, Karl Lagerfeld and Jeremy Scott, who are 'twisting ideas of girlishness into something unexpected.' She argues 'when girlishness is done intelligently, and with genuine complexity it is a wonderful, insightful thing.'

    Read the full essay now and stay tuned for more Girly content, including an upcoming piece on Meadham Kirchhoff's Spring/Summer 2013 collection Wolf in Lamb's Clothing.

  7. by SHOWstudio .

    Transformative: Val Garland on Lady Gaga

    Transformative returns! Our rolling series sees Nick Knight reconsider contemporary fashion imagery through in-depth video interviews with the creatives behind the scenes; makeup artists, hairdressers and stylists.

    This week Knight sits down with makeup artist Val Garland, who discusses working with Lady Gaga on her Alejandro music video: 'Before this video she had a look that was very strong with a lot of makeup, and for me, I wanted to do something completely different.' Garland recalls the process of collaborating with director Steven Klein and hairdresser Eugene Souleiman on the shoot and explains the reference points that led her to create the final, pared-back look: 'Everything was slightly religious but sexy at the same time and I just said 'it's all about the mouth.''

    Watch the full interview now and stay tuned for more as Transformative develops. In the meantime, don't forget to explore our sister project, Subjective!

  8. by Mandi Lennard .

    Francois-Henri Pinault on sustainable fashion

    I went to London College of Fashion last night to hear news of a shiny new collaboration with Kering aiming to explore sustainable fashion. Kering chief-executive Francois-Henri Pinault eloquently shared how the company is aiming for quantifiable sustainability targets by 2016, but what I really wanted to know is how does someone like Christopher Kane benefit from Kering's commitment to this issue? In the drinks reception round the corner later, Francois-Henri (pictured) told me that with all the artistic talents they work with, Kering's dedicated sustainability team help source the most environmentally respectful permutation of what a designer is looking for. He says that 20% of Gucci's handbag production is already executed without using metal in the production process, something he is rightfully proud of. One of the biggest messages of the night was the sharing of progress in this field, and how by 'authentic communication', the values of what's being passed on may benefit many. Even when discussing Kering's plans with LCF's audience and students earlier, it was refreshing to see someone of his fashion stature talk about how important the synergies are in this process. And however much Kering has to convey to students, they very much hope to equally embrace what the students can bring to the fore.

  9. by SHOWstudio .

    Claudia Maté's Tumblr takeover begins Saturday 1 November!
    Glorious GIFs

    In keeping with our monthly tradition of giving a guest creative free reign over the SHOWstudio Tumblr, we're excited to announce that new media artist Claudia Maté will be staging a Tumblr takeover, starting this Saturday, 1 November! 

    The Spanish-born, London-based artist's portfolio features a myriad of online projects where she experiments with different programming languages and 3D software. Maté is best known for her work on Cloaque.org with Carlos Sáez, a seamless Tumblr-based collaborative collage, or ‘digital landfill’. Engaging with new ideas about our visual culture and the language of the internet, Maté’s other projects range from Sweet Finances!, an installation exploring the artistry of commodity markets, to her David Bowie GIFs, created in response to the V&A exhibition. 

    Be sure to follow her week-long curation, featuring a selection of animated photographs and drawings, from Saturday, 1 November. While you wait, head to Tumblr now to revisit past takeovers by the likes of stylists Simon Foxton and Anna Trevelyan and artist Peter de Potter

  10. by SHOWstudio .

    Kristen McMenamy on Steven Meisel

    Our Subjective series is back! This week Nick Knight sits down with supermodel Kristen McMenamy to discuss shooting Steven Meisel's famous Grunge and Glory editorial in 1992.

    McMenamy recalls the quiet outdoor location ('I think we might've had to chase off a few farmers in the background') and explains why it marked a pivotal moment in her career; 'I was like, I can't be a woman so I'm going to fuck myself up. I cut my hair… like, I can't be a top model, I'm gonna be anti, and that's the first shoot where I was really glorified for being that way.'

    She also describes the significance of the shoot within the fashion industry - 'For American Vogue and Grace Coddington to do that? It was big huge thing. You don't realise it at the time' - and speaks about her relationship with Meisel: 'I love him. He's made me feel the most beautiful… I worked with him in the eighties, I'm still working with him!'

    Watch the exclusive interview now and stay tuned for more as Subjective continues!

  11. by Mandi Lennard .

    Nasir Mazhar's fur boxing gloves

    Mild frustration that these fake fur mittens by Nasir Mazhar come up too short due to my nail extensions, although I could adopt the clenched fist stance shown by MACHINE-A's Rei Nadal (pictured) who pulls no punches when it comes to her own choice of threads. Still, they are a worthy candidate for the V&A's fashion archive, and that alone makes them a prize acquisition.

  12. by SHOWstudio .

    Floating World: Interview with Julia Hutt

    Coinciding with Noritaka Tatehana's SHOWcabinet exhibition, Floating World, SHOWstudio's Niamh White spoke to Julia Hutt about the significance of Tatehana's work within the history of Japanese craft.

    Hutt, who is curator of Japanese art at the Victoria & Albert Museum, discusses utilitarian objects as works of art, Edo period design, and the traditional use of black lacquer: 'its beauty and importance is such that it must survive, especially as it is so deeply rooted in the art and culture of Japan.'

    Read the full interview now and stay tuned for an essay by V&A research assistant Lucia Savi as our Floating World project continues.

  13. by Niamh White .

    Marie Schuller shoots 3D printed dress for Venice Architecture Biennale

    Today we're shooting with our contributing head of fashion film Marie Schuller. Commissioned by the London College of Fashion in response to Rem Koolhaas' Venice Architecture Biennale, the film has been a collaboration between Schuller and MoMu curator Kaat Debo. It features a 3D printed dress that has been created by Tobias Klein, Alexandra Verschueren and Joris Debo at Materialise. The film will be released on SHOWstudio on 6 November 2014 alongside three others as part of the upcoming 1914 Now project.

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