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  1. by SHOWstudio .

    The Noritaka Tatehana residency ends with a live shoot!

    Noritaka Tatehana's residency at SHOWstudio comes to close today as he completes a pair of his besopke heel-less designs live on camera. But there's more! After spending the last three days getting an in depth look at his creative process through our exclusive livestream, viewers will now be able to see the finished shoes modelled by longtime Noritaka-wearer Daphne Guinness in a fashion film directed by Nick Knight.

    Tune in now to see the shoes on film and don't forget to visit our SHOWcabinet exhibition celebrating the work of the Japanese designer, running until the 7 November 2014 at 19 Motcomb Street!

  2. by SHOWstudio .

    Three new essays on the subject of Girly!

    We launched our Girly project early this month with a live fashion film shoot examining 'fashion's relationship with overt, cartoon femininity'. We're excited to publish three essays further exploring different facets of the 'girly' trend - internet aesthetics, Luella and the problems of reclaiming girlishness.

    In an extract from her academic article The Problematics of Reclaiming the Girlish: The Powerpuff Girls and Girl Power, professor and expert on children's media Rebecca Haines deconstructs the 'girl power' movement, citing nineties cultural references from the Buffy the Vampire Slayer and the PowerPuff Girls to the Spice Girls. She explores the messages of 'girl power' and their appropriation by advertisers as well as the contradictions present in this incarnation of feminism, 'the relationship between girl power’s pro-girl rhetoric and its emphasis on the construction of a circumscribed feminine appearance must not be underestimated. As one crisis girls face is a preoccupation with their looks, emphasising appearance is problematic, but appearance is central to girl power’s attempts to reclaim the girlish.'

    MATCHESFASHION.COM's senior writer and shopping editor Chris Hobbs contributes an essay on fashion and the language of the web - inspired by the fact the 'girly' trend is heavily prevalent on and often inspired by social media sites such as Tumblr and Instagram. A self-confessed emoji addict, Hobbs writes about the fashion industry's use of these internet aesthetics, 'Daubing your brand in these mini pictures, for the moment at least, says 'we’re young, we’re with it and we’re a little bit off-centre.''

    Finally, fashion writer Ana Kinsella offers an ode to designer Luella Bartley and her influence on the current wave of girly fashion. 'While Luella's English Girl might be an idiosyncratic character, straight from the wardrobe of Withnail and I by way of the King’s Road, her wares appealed to a myriad of types.'

    Enjoy our three new essays while you wait for the fashion film - launching next week. And stay tuned for more content including an essay by writer and regular SHOWstudio panel guest Bertie Brandes, as well as interviews with fashion insiders who play key roles in making 'girly' popular - designer Ryan Lo and stylists Louby Mcloughlin and Lola Chatterton. 

  3. by Mandi Lennard .

    Rick Owens Signs Rick Owens

    This is a warning to anyone traveling on the top deck of any London bus traveling down Oxford Street this month. Do not be alarmed when you see a 25-foot torso of Rick Owens, weighing a whopping 1.5 tonnes, featuring 24 kilometres of hair and a fire-burning torch atop Selfridges' front façade. It's the centrepiece to the store's massive homage to the designer, marking 20 years since the inception of the Rick Owens label.
     
    Head to Selfridges at 18:00 BST this Saturday, 13 September, when Owens himself will be exclusively signing copies of his brand new book Rick Owens within the ground floor Concept Store. Part of The Masters, Selfridges lead creative scheme for this autumn, Owens fittingly signifies Master of Elements.
  4. by SHOWstudio .

    Watch Nick Knight's Killer Heels film!

    As part of their latest exhibition, Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe, Brooklyn Museum invited Nick Knight to create a film exploring fashion's most provocative accessory. Running from 10 September 2014 to 15 February 2015, the show offers a closer look at the high heeled shoe throughout history and includes more than 160 vertiginous pairs.

    Knight's film La Douleur Exquise acts as the perfect accompaniment, featuring bespoke glass slippers designed by Georgina Goodman, it recalls the shoe's fairytale association with the painful pursuit of love. Passion, tension, hardship and discomfort are all themes that underly this visual exploration of shoes. Watch the fashion film now!

  5. by SHOWstudio .

    Kristen McMenamy on working with Tim Walker

    The latest episode of our Subjective interview series is here! This week, Nick Knight gets supermodel Kristen McMenamy's perspective on a selection of images of her, shot by Tim Walker

    McMenamy explains how one photograph of her clad in armour surprised her by being the best of the whole shoot, when she felt that it wasn't working. 'That's when you have to trust the photographer,' she concludes. During the conversation she also speaks about her preference for working with photographers who direct her, 'oldie but goodies' as she calls them, and loving Walker's way of shooting - 'It's old school, the whole team goes to a big house and spends a week just taking time… you become friends and you gel and you have your dinners together and you have your lunches together and you stay in the same big house. I love that, it's probably like being on a movie set.'

    Of another photograph from Walker's Origin of Monsters series for Love magazine, McMenamy also recounts that the wings she was wearing almost caught fire - 'that would have been a good death, in a haunted house, because I would have haunted that house!'

    Watch the candid chat for the full story and stay tuned for another instalment next week! 

  6. by SHOWstudio .

    Catch up with our Marc by Marc Jacobs panel on-demand!

    If you missed it or just want to re-watch, last night's Marc by Marc Jacobs panel discussion is now available on-demand! Fashion PR Mandi Lennard, ICA curator Matt Williams, writer Hettie Judah and founder of MACHINE-A Stavros Karelis were chaired by SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard

    Watch the experts as they discuss the type of femininity - described by Judah as ‘girlitude’ portrayed by the label's aesthetic. ‘There’s a real mixture of tomboys and girls that are ripping up vintage looks’ Judah adds, on the subject of Marc by Marc Jacobs' diverse clientele. The panel also mulled over the appointment of Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller as creative directors for the MBMJ brand, 'Sometimes it takes another designer to come along and get you to the next level,' commented Karelis.

    Learn more from the fashion insiders whilst enjoying this absorbing discussion - available on-demand now!

  7. by SHOWstudio .

    Re-watch the Thom Browne panel!

    The on-demand footage from this morning's Thom Browne panel is now available! The live panel saw editor and chair Lou Stoppard in conversation with writer Harriet Verney, art director Tom Hingston and SHOWstudio’s very own director, Nick Knight. Follow the experts' colourful debate, which diverged onto the subjects of American style, the success of menswear designers on the womenswear runways, and the childlike aesthetic of the show, described by Knight as ‘a strange, slightly sort of school boy look'.
     
    Relive Thom Browne's S/S 15 show whilst learning from the experts - watch the panel on-demand now. 
  8. by Iain R. Webb .

    Divinely Decadent

    It was a delight to spend last evening in conversation with legendary Biba creator Barbara Hulanicki at the Fashion Museum in Bath. A glimpse of Biba fake leopard can be seen on the jacket worn by Arthur Kane, bass guitarist with the New York Dolls, during their iconic 1973 ‘mock rock’ performance on The Old Grey Whistle Test.

  9. by SHOWstudio .

    Live Marc by Marc Jacobs panel discussion tonight!

    Our panel discussions continue with a thorough dissection of the Marc by Marc Jacobs S/S 15 show tonight, 9 September at 21:00 BST. SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard is joined by the ICA's Matt Williams, writer Hettie Judah, PR Mandi Lennard and buying director Stavros Karelis for live observation and analysis of the show. Be sure to watch!

    While you wait, stay updated on everything NYFW with our Collections catwalk coverage!

  10. by SHOWstudio .

    The Bonnet shoot is over

    That's the end of Nick Knight and Amanda Harlech's ode to the bonnet. The two-day shoot saw Knight shoot the lovingly-made creations of the industry's most acclaimed designers, with the help of the beautiful and barely made-up faces of models of all ages.

    Keep an eye on the Bonnet project if you want to see the finished fashion film and V Magazine editorial. We've got more live stream action starting tomorrow, be sure to tune in to Floating World, where celebrated shoemaker Noritaka Tatehana will be crafting a pair of his signature gravity defying shoes here in the studio!

  11. by SHOWstudio .

    Tune in tomorrow for a Thom Browne discussion!

    New York Fashion Week is still going strong, and we're taking an in-depth look at Thom Browne's S/S 15 show with one of our signature panel discussions. Be sure to tune in tomorrow, 9 September at 11:00 BST to watch editor and chair Lou Stoppard unpick the show with the help of art director Tom Hingston, designer Peter Jensen and writer Harriet Verney

    Meanwhile, you can keep up with the happenings on the New York runways with up-to-the-minute coverage, over on our Collections page. 

  12. by Niamh White .

    Noritaka Tatehana LiveStudio marks opening of our SHOWcabinet exhibition

    To celebrate the launch of his SHOWcabinet exhibition this week, Noritaka Tatehana will take up residence at SHOWstudio on 9, 10 and 11 September 2014 to create a pair of his vertiginous heel-less shoes during a live broadcast. Revealing his process for the very first time, the shoemaker will give a step by step demonstration of the techniques used to create his gravity defying designs. Viewers of the stream can submit questions directly to Tatehana through SHOWstudio.com, so whether you want to know which university he went to, what he's inspired by or how he came to be the shoe designer of choice for Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness, now is your chance to ask. When the shoes are complete, Nick Knight will shoot them on Daphne Guinness, a longterm champion of Tatehana, in a finale that marks the opening of the exhibition. The shoot will result in a series of editorial images and a fashion film that depicts Tatehana's latest creation.

    The live studio kicks off tomorrow, 9 September, from 14:00 - 18:00. Submit your question to Noritaka Tatehana now!

  13. by SHOWstudio .

    Watch day two of the Bonnet shoot!

    Tune in today, 8 September, to watch the second-part of Nick Knight and Amanda Harlech's Bonnet shoot. Some of fashion's finest makers were approached to craft their own interpretation of the historic item of headwear. So far Knight has shot bespoke creations by Johanna O'Hagan, Riccardo Tisci, Sarah Burton, Stephen Jones, Noel Stewart and Daphne Guinness on models ranging from infancy to adulthood. Harlech's theatrical styling features an array of vintage pieces and Junya Watanabe garments.

    We kicked off today's shoot with a piece by Philip Treacy. Tune in now to watch Knight shoot this beautiful body of work resulting in an editorial for V Magazine and a fashion film for SHOWstudio. 

  14. by SHOWstudio .

    Watch Nick Knight shoot live!

    We're streaming all the behind-the-scenes action of Nick Knight's latest photo shoot. Knight has teamed with Amanda Harlech to revive the bonnet, a now largely extinct piece of headwear with a rich and varied history. A selection of their favourite makers, including Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton, Iris Van Herpen, Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci, Stephen Jones and J.W. Anderson, were approached to craft their own interpretation of a bonnet, with encouragement to ignore limitation and create freely. The bonnet can frame the face, capturing the gaze and serving as a funnel for beauty, or it can stand alone as an attractive object. It can give status or it can give anonymity. It can protect and shield the wearer or it can draw attention. These many roles will be celebrated in an editorial for V magazine and fashion film for SHOWstudio.

    The bonnets will be shot on a variety of models, through from children to adults, clad in a mixture of vintage clothes and pieces by Junya Watanabe. Watch live today, 7 September as we kick off the shoot. Our first model will be sporting a bonnet from Daphne Guinness' personal collection!

     

     

  15. by SHOWstudio .

    Introducing our NYFW S/S 15 illustrator - Viktoria Kim
    View her work on Tumblr now

    Each season as part of our collections coverage we invite an artist to illustrate the key shows. We're thrilled to have Viktoria Kim translating her favourite runway moments from the New York S/S 15 catwalks into her own artistic visions.

    Born and raised in New York City, Kim graduated with a BFA in advertising at the School of Visual Arts in 2014, and has since worked for publications such as Visionaire and V Magazine, as well as styling for Vfiles

    Her first illustration - inspired by Gareth Pugh's immersive presentation - is already up on our Tumblr and Collections page. Check it out and stay tuned for more! 

     

  16. by SHOWstudio .

    Penny Martin and Nasir Mazhar interviews now on-demand!

    If you happened to miss the inspirational live stream of the The Gentlewoman editor-in-chief Penny Martin in conversation with SHOWstudio’s Lou Stoppard, don’t worry - it's now available to view on-demand. Watch Martin as she gives an insight into her life as editor: ‘I get bored if I don't feel in awe of something,’ as well as delving into subjects such as feminism, cover stars, and breaking the rules.

    You can also catch up on young designer Nasir Mazhar’s extremely candid interview, also conducted by Stoppard. Mazhar talks about the pressures he faces as a young designer, ‘There's no excuses. If you want to be a big designer you need to up your game.’ He also shares his views on fashion media, ‘There's a lot of stale things in this industry to be honest,’ - and the phrase ‘street wear’ -  'It's fashion. I think it's belittling to call it streetwear.’

    Both interviews are now available on-demand, view them along with more from our In Fashion series - a must watch for all aspiring journalists, editors and designers!

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