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  1. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 6

    We’re nearing the end of our week-long celebration of Nick Knight and Lee McQueen’s creative collaborations. The penultimate piece of footage gleaned from Knight’s archives shows the creation of an image from 1999 for the debut issue of Tina Brown’s Talk magazine. The final photograph follows the tradition of Knight and McQueen collaborations in terms of its extreme imagery and emotive concept. McQueen appears bound in chains and hanging from his own flesh in a padded cell, the themes of torment and captivity symbolising the designer’s unhappiness working as head designer at Givenchy. The short film gives a glimpse of the image-making process from beginning to end. 

    Marian Newman is the latest of McQueen’s collaborators to be interviewed about her relationship with the ground-breaking designer. The nail artist speaks about working on shows and projects including the Alexander McQueen S/S 10 Plato’s Atlantis show, Lee McQueen’s last. 'Every time I did something with him there was always a story with the nails, which was great - and it was unheard of in those days,' she says of the designer's attention to detail.

    In conversation with Lou Stoppard about his Talk magazine image, known as The Cell and shown as today's unseen footage, Nick Knight gives his penultimate interview on his creative collaborations with Lee.

    Enjoy today's exclusive Unseen McQueen content, we'll be releasing the final piece of archive footage and accompanying interviews tomorrow, 19 March.

  2. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 5

    It’s Day 5 of our week-long journey through Nick Knight’s archive of projects created in collaboration with Lee McQueen. Each day, we’ve been revealing one previously unseen, newly edited piece of footage and today’s archive surprise originates from 1998. 

    Inspired by the Alexander McQueen A/W 98 Joan collection, Nick Knight shot an editorial for the April 1998 issue of The Face featuring Lee McQueen himself in character as Joan of Arc and model Shirley Mallmann on a bed of nails. The process of creating the extreme editorial and cover images was captured by Knight for his archive using handycams. 

    Sitting alongside the footage, in the latest in a series of interview with other individuals who collaborated with the designer, Lou Stoppard interviewed Nadja Swarovski about her relationship with the designer. The principle sponsors of Savage Beauty at the V&A, Swarovski provided support for many of McQueen’s shows and projects during his lifetime. Nadja Swarovski speaks about meeting Lee McQueen through Isabella Blow, her love of working with fashion designers and the ways McQueen worked with crystals.

    As always, today’s newly revealed footage is contextualised by an interview with Knight himself, as he recalls shooting McQueen and Mallmann for the April 1998 The Face cover story.  

    Immerse yourself in our Unseen McQueen project so far, and stay tuned for more exclusive content, released daily until 19 March 2015.

     
  3. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 4

    Our Unseen McQueen series continues with footage from 2005. Lee McQueen and Nick Knight worked together to create the campaign imagery for Puma’s first collaboration with Alexander McQueen. Inspired by Lee McQueen’s passion for nature, the concept for the shoot surrounded the idea of a man morphing into a cat. The footage cuts from Lee McQueen explaining the process of creating the image to the shoot itself, featuring an athletic model and a live puma; ‘he wasn’t very co-operative, he just snarled a lot and sat on his arse’ noted McQueen of the animal. The film also shows the stages of laborious retouching that went into completing the photograph.

    Interviewed by Lou Stoppard, Joseph Bennett talks about working with the designer on his theatrical runway shows. A British production designer, Bennett designed every Alexander McQueen show since Spring/Summer 1999’s No 13. He also designed the Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition at the Met in New York and the V&A in London.

    Finally, in today’s interview with Nick Knight, the photographer recalls the same Puma shoot seen in our newly edited archive footage and the difficulty of trying to recreate the 'power of nature... with a slightly overweight puma in Park Royal Studios.'

    Enjoy Day 4 of our Unseen McQueen series and expect the next installment at 11:00 GMT tomorrow, 17 March 2015. 

  4. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 3

    Day 3 in our Unseen McQueen week brings to light photoshoot footage, recorded, as always by Nick Knight for his archive using handycams, of a shoot for the 20th edition of Visionaire, guest edited by Comme des Garçons. The resulting editorial featured Devon Aoki as a Manga heroine and Laura de Palma (shown in this footage) in the controversial metal ‘Bellmer’ harness worn by Debra Shaw in the Alexander McQueen S/S 97 La Poupee show. Watch the 1997 shoot (complete with a very nineties soundtrack).

    Our exclusive interview for today features Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty curator Claire Wilcox talking to Lou Stoppard about working with members of McQueen's team, including set designer Joseph Bennett, Sam Gainsbury and Katy England, to create the exhibition, which opened yesterday, 14 March at the V&A.

    Placing the Visionaire shoot footage in context, Nick Knight speaks about his experience of shooting editorials with Lee McQueen, and their work for the 20th edition of Visionaire, captured in today's previously unseen archive footage.

    Enjoy today's archive gem and interviews and come back tomorrow for Day 4 of Unseen McQueen.

  5. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 2

    It’s Day 2 of our week-long celebration of Lee McQueen and the legacy of his long creative collaboration with Nick Knight. The second item in our top secret line-up of footage from Knight’s archive captures the working progress behind Blade of Light, one of the photographers most famous works. The image features pieces from the Alexander McQueen S/S 04 Deliverance collection and was choreographed by Michael Clark. The behind-the-scenes film shows the group of celebrated creatives at work, posing the models and dancers around the gigantic perspex shape that formed Knight’s ‘blade of light’. 

    Explaining the footage further, an exclusive interview with dancer and choreographer Michael Clark sits alongside. Clark provided the choreography for the both the Alexander McQueen dance marathon inspired Deliverance show and Knight's subsequent Blade of Light image. He also opened the Amex-sponsored Black show in 2004 performing a dance with model Kate Moss. 

    Finally, in conversation with Lou Stoppard, Nick Knight discusses the making of the Blade of Light image. ‘When the models worked for Lee they were absolutely devoted to him. You hardly ever got anybody who grumbled about having to do these things’ he remembers on the subject of the physically challenging shoot.

    Watch the footage and associated interviews with Clark and Knight, and get ready for tomorrow's archive Unseen McQueen piece.

     

  6. by SHOWstudio .

    Unseen McQueen: Day 1

    It’s Day 1 of our long-awaited Unseen McQueen series. In conjunction with the record-breaking Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition, opening tomorrow, 14 March at the V&A, SHOWstudio celebrates Nick Knight’s collaborative relationship with the late Lee McQueen by releasing never-before-seen, newly-edited footage of interviews and photo-shoots from the photographer’s archive.

    We begin our week-long McQueen takeover of the site with a 1998 interview with the designer. The footage shows a young Lee McQueen in conversation with Knight’s then first assistant, Sølve Sundsbø. The pair can be seen discussing Knight and McQueen's collaborative relationship and the creation of their first project together, a series of images for the 1996 Florence Biennale. ‘At the time that was happening I was starting to work for Givenchy and everything was going crazy.’ the designer said of the project. ‘I suppose that’s why one of the pictures I asked Nick to do was of my head exploding, because that’s how I felt.’ On working with Knight, he observed, ’when we work together, we think as one - usually what he was thinking I was also thinking.’

    To accompany the previously unseen interview, SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard interviewed Katy England, who worked with McQueen as a stylist on his shows for 13 years. England speaks about how first she met the young designer, the collaborative environment of his studio and being busy backstage at some of his most iconic shows; ‘I often used to wish I could watch them but I was always backstage,’ she recalls. 

    Rounding off our first day of McQueen revelations, Knight also speaks to Stoppard about how he came to meet and work with McQueen as well as his long-term habit of filming his photo-shoots, and the making of the same 1996 Florence Biennale images.

    Watch our first archive piece and the illuminating interviews, and stay tuned for day 2 of Unseen McQueen

  7. by SHOWstudio .

    Illustrating McQueen

    A collection of specially commissioned illustrations pays homage to a selection of Alexander McQueen's most pivotal designs. SHOWstudio has established a community of fashion illustrators and artists that work in a variety of mediums to re-interpret garments in new and imaginative guises. For the occasion of the Savage Beauty exhibition at the V&A and the Nick Knight & Alexander McQueen exhibition at SHOWstudio, each of these artists; Helen Bullock, Jowy Maasdamme, Piet Paris, Jenifer Corker, Rei Nadal, Stephen Doherty, Velwyn Yossy, Conrad Roset, Kukula, Francois Berthoud, Laura Laine, Gary Card, One Eye Girl, Fiona Gourlay, Valerie Servais, Tobie Giddio, Josie Hall, Frida WannerbergerCharles Jeffrey, Bex Cassie, Eduardo Mata Icaza, Unskilled Worker and John Booth have created artworks that operate as an ode to an important McQueen design. 

    Collectively these works pay tribute to the various facets of McQueen's prolific craft driven and conceptual oeuvre and give a new account of his creations through the eyes of a range of artists. The selected looks were drawn mostly from the items chosen my McQueen creative director Sarah Burton to appear in Nick Knight's 2010 tribute film, To Lee, With Love, Nick; items she felt showed off his extraordinary talent best.

    View each beautiful illustration now, and stay tuned; the original artworks will be available to purchase online soon at SHOWstudio Shop. The project sits alongside SHOWstudio's wider Unseen McQueen project that showcases previously unreleased photo-shoot footage and interviews from Nick Knight's archive.

  8. by Iain R. Webb .

    Style Heroine

    With everyone riffing around deconstruction, individualism, army surplus, gender bending and lace (all tied up with string), then you'd be wise to check out the back catalogue of superstylist Caroline Baker
     
    Photo by Eddy Kohli from Tatler, June 1984
  9. by Sarah Piantadosi .

    Re-Edition

    Becoming a Body Without Organs, After Deleuze is a work based on a performance by Kevin Brennan, an artist currently studying at the Slade School of Fine Art. Kevin and I collaborated to create a series of images for Re-Edition Magazine based in Antwerp. You can see the whole series here.
  10. by SHOWstudio .

    Reflective 2: A Kilgour fashion film

    Savile Row brand Kilgour mark their Spring/Summer 2015 collection with a fashion film by Nick Knight and Kilgour’s creative director Carlo Brandelli. The second in the ‘Reflective Series’ after last year’s Kilgour: The Relaunch film, Reflective 2 uses mirrored boxes in black and silver built by Brandelli to reference the layers of development and ideas put into creating the A/W 15 garments.

    As Brandelli himself explains; 'The idea was to arrange these as an installation and capture the image of a silhouette. The architectural nature of the sculptural layers building is a comment on how the thought process builds with layers of ideas.'

    Watch the new fashion film now.

  11. by SHOWstudio .

    A new film! Design Download: J.W. Anderson winner

    Remember our Design Download: J.W. Anderson competition? Launched as a special Christmas gift to viewers, the project saw J.W. Anderson offer up not one but two patterns for a leather top and balloon skirt from his acclaimed A/W 13 collection. SHOWstudio invited viewers to create their own J.W. Anderson pieces from the pattern and submit images of their garment to a competition. 

    After much deliberation from Nick Knight and J.W himself selected Central Saint Martins student Ryan Rodriguez as the winner thanks to his dynamic fringed reinterpretation of the garment using chinese silk, poly latex and cotton. His pieces now star in a specially commissioned SHOWstudio fashion film by Jon Emmony. Watch it now, and revisit the crafty project as a whole.

  12. by SHOWstudio .

    Missed our live interview with Venetia Scott? Catch up!

    Yesteday, 10 March, Venetia Scott visited the studio to talk about her life in fashion live on camera. On-demand footage of the stylist-turned-photographer's In Fashion conversation with Lou Stoppard is available to watch for a limited time only. Hear her discuss her 'anti-fashion' aesthetic, her early work at British Vogue, The Face and Nova magazines, her passion for 'stories rather than clothes', her long collaboration with Juergen Teller and the two characters that underpin all her shoots.

    Watch now, or revisit other chats in our archive with acclaimed image-makers, stylists and photographers including Lucinda Chambers, Solve Sundsbo and Ruth Hogben.

  13. by SHOWstudio .

    Follow François Berthoud’s Paris illustrations

    We invited Zurich-based fashion illustrator François Berthoud to be our guest Collections illustrator for the Paris Autumn/Winter 2015 season. So far, the acclaimed fashion artist has executed elegant drawings of runway looks from the Saint Laurent Paris, Veronique Branquinho, Givenchy, Chloe and Celine shows in his signature precise style.

    Stay tuned for Berthoud’s final artworks on our Tumblr as he rounds up his SHOWstudio residency!

  14. by SHOWstudio .

    Tune in tomorrow for a live interview with Venetia Scott

    Tune in tomorrow, 10 March for a live interview with Venetia Scott. SHOWstudio editor Lou Stoppard will be talking to the stylist turned image maker at 15:30 GMT. Streaming live as part of our ongoing In Fashion interview series, the candid chat with Scott follows in the footsteps of interviews with numerous notable industry luminaries, including Craig Green, Jefferson Hack and Simon Foxton

    Don't miss the photographer discussing her distinctive style and collaborations with the likes of Juergen Teller, David Sims, and Marc Jacobs.

  15. by SHOWstudio .

    Introducing Our Paris Fashion Week Illustrator- François Berthoud

    We've invited Zurich-based fashion illustrator François Berthoud to illustrate the Paris Autumn/Winter 2015 womenswear collections as part of our fashion week coverage. 

    Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, Berthoud graduated from the School for Graphic Design, Lausanne in 1982, before moving between Paris, Milan and New York. 

    His early fashion illustrations were championed by Anna Piaggi in Vanity Fair, and he has since appeared in publications such as Vogue and Numero as well as advertisements for brands including Viktor&Rolf, Bulgari and Tiffany. In 2014, he drew upon his background as a cartoonist to produce an animated comic strip for Prada's Candy Florale perfume. 

    His experimental style is renowned for its precision and elegant eroticism, and his hand-made aesthetic employs the increasingly unusual technique of linocutting in order to capture both mood and moment with irony and artistry. 

    Stay tuned for the first of his works on the SHOWstudio Tumblr, and review the work of our guest Milan Fashion Week artist Gordon Flores while you wait.

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