SHOWstudio Shop is now stocking Hood by Air ! HBA's street wear clothing seamlessly merges the aesthetic of hip hop with high fashion, and has garnered support from the likes of Kanye West and A$AP Rocky. The Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is available to buy now and precedes an exclusive collaboration with SHOWstudio later in the year. The partnership follows the phenomenal response we received to the OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh hoodies that sold out in record time. There's only limited stock available so place your order now to avoid disappointment.
Model Liberty Ross is the latest contributor to our Punk fashion film season. The series tasked filmmakers and creatives with fashioning an item of clothing to express their personal take on punk. HOME ALONE sees Ross take the rebellious punk process of customisation as the film's central story.
Watch Ross armed with a potato stamp and red paint in our Punk project now, or shop the garments from the film in the SHOWstudio Shop!
Later today, we'll be launching Liberty Ross' brand new Punk film, Home Alone. Speaking on the film, Ross comments, 'there’s nothing more punk than being a mum.' As you wait for the film, whet your appetite with all Ross' reference images on our Tumblr now!
This week myself and SHOWstudio contributor Sue-Wen Quek are heading to Asia to attend FIDé Fashion Week, a one week spectacle in Singapore featuring the most exciting Asian couture and ready to wear designers, as well as household Parisan names, such as Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland. At least that was the plan.
Due to a missed connecting flight, we instead got stranded in Paris CDG, equipped only with our hand luggage packed for tropical weather. After being given a voucher to an airport hotel and a tomato sandwich, we decided to adventure into town instead to admire the morbid beauty of Père Lachaise Cemetery, the famous graveyard and resting place to some of history's greatest makers and thinkers, including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Édith Piaf and Maria Callas.
Our unexpected stay in France is coming to an end and we will be in Singapore - hopefully - by Sunday, so watch out for updates from FIDé Fashion Week on the SHOWstudio blog!
Filmmaker Kathryn Ferguson has offered up her contribution to our Punk fashion film series - a work that responds to the hyper-sexualisation of women in music videos. Ferguson has previously explored themes surrounding female role-models for SHOWstudio with her film project Four-Tell earlier this year. Her punk film Rear Guard is accompanied by an essay by journalist Phoebe Frangoul. Frangoul comments;
'Rear Guard takes tropes that have become depressingly familiar and subverts them to shock the viewer out of their complacency. The ugly slogans displayed by the dancers in Rear Guard come from the same place as riot grrrls scrawling ‘SLUT’ across their stomachs in the ninties – another incarnation of post-punk’s subversive spirit.
Punk is ultimately about realising that beauty and ugliness are two sides of the same coin – a theme which is at the heart of Kathryn’s film. The human body – the female body in this case – is beautiful, but the eye of the beholder isn’t always benign. Understanding the tension between the subject and the gaze is key to unpicking and addressing pop’s current problem.'
Ferguson adds, 'Punk means protest. I'm particularly interested in the post-punk Riot Grrrl movement and how they used the ethos of punk to get their message across. An ethos that is still so relevant today and continues to inspire activist groups such as Pussy Riot.'
SHOWstudio Shop is excited to announce that we will soon be stocking the New York underground fashion label, Hood By Air. We've been establishing firm ties with some of the most innovative street wear brands, and this is the latest label to grace our shelves. It follows our recent collaboration with OFF-WHITE c/o Virgil Abloh, which received a phenomenal response and sold out in record time.
Shayne Oliver of HBA has established a label that seamlessly merges the aesthetic of hip hop with high fashion, and has garnered support from the likes of Kanye West and A$AP Rocky. He has a reputation for showcasing his garments in various vanguard performances, most notably earlier this year when his collection was presented in Selfridges car park that was transformed into a skate park. HBA has also collaborated with the BEEN TRILL collective, and their highly sought after t-shirts will also be available to buy when the line launches next week.
Keep watching the blog to learn more and find out when you can buy yours.
Nick Knight continues his series of interviews Punk: Photography today with a call to Ray Stevenson. They discuss one of punks most enduring images, Stevenson's portrait of Soo Catwoman.
The photograph presents an unusually alluring vision of a movement that valued everything depraved and degenerate. Gazing directly down the camera lens, Soo Catwoman's prerogative was to dress in a way that would provoke and aggravate- she shaved her hair to look like cat ears, flaunted multiple piercings and dressed in the expected seditionaries apparel. Stevenson reveals however that it had the exact opposite effect on him and in fact, he was held in thrall of her look. This reaction seems to have been shared, with the image gracing the covers of multiple publications internationally. In the interview, Stevenson reveals details about this shoot that was commissioned by Malcolm McLaren and contemplates the punk legacy.
A print of this image is being displayed as part of SHOWstudio's current exhibition The Photography of Punk and is shown alongside work by Robert Mapplethorpe, Jon Savage and more. The prints are all available to buy from SHOWstudio Shop.
The interview series continues next week when Nick Knight speaks with Jon Savage about his photographs of West Kensington and Judy Linn who photographed Robert Mapplethorpe and Patti Smith in the early 1970s.
The post-fashion week cool-down culminates with four of our signature live panel discussions. We have an impressive roll-call of fashion experts visiting the studio to review the S/S 14 collections from the four major fashion cities. Tomorrow 10 October begins with a New York round-up at 11:30 BST featuring the fashion editor of The Observer Jo Jones and fashion writers Tilly Macalister-Smith and Harriet Walker. Next, fashion editors of The Independent and The Telegraph Alex Fury and Lisa Armstrong and fashion PR Mandi Lennard will be reviewing the London shows at 15:00 BST.
Then on Friday 11 October we'll do it all over again with fashion journalist Charlie Byrne, creative consultant Mimma Viglezio, assistant fashion editor of The Independent Rebecca Gonsalves and once again Harriet Walker discussing Milan at 11:30 BST! Lastly, Paris will be picked apart at 15:00 BST by miliner Stephen Jones, fashion writer Camilla Morton, actress Tallulah Harlech, writer Jo-Ann Furniss and The Independent's Alex Fury. Watch them all live from our Collections page!
Today we have been shooting the first in a series of moving portraits by Clive Booth that will provide a greater insight into some of the industry's leading figures as well as highlighting the different processes and equipment involved in shooting a video portrait.
Fashion designer Henry Holland is Clive's first sitter in a shoot that will use the latest 4K cameras and several creative lighting techniques. We have just finished the first shot that saw Henry on a turntable and have caught some great personal moments with the designer.
More details on how and why the moment was captured in 4K will be released with the footage in the upcoming weeks on SHOWstudio.
Young designer Maartje van Hooij caused a splash when, along with her team, she won the prize for best student film at ASVOFF in Barcelona for her entry Amante. We're thrilled that the talented young creative has now offered up a film exclusively to SHOWstudio as part of our rolling Punk series.
Fittingly, given that her work spans the disciplines of design, styling, art direction and filmmaking, van Hooij both directed her film and created the garment that features in it, the eye-catching Yellow Suit. When asked about the inspiration behind the garment, which was constructed from 200 metres of fringing, van Hooij explained that, 'the ultimate accessory for a man is his girlfriend. If she is hot and looks good his ego is safe. I made an accessory for a girlfriend that will give a man the spotlight when he takes her with him.'
Her film, titled Trash Chic, explores the inherent contradictions present in punk and sees her place her DIY collection in a punk setting. Van Hooij deliberately plays with the contrast between the feeling of the set and the rolls the models play. Watch Trash Chic now!
The lively literary chat saw Watson focus on Vivienne Westwood, while Irvine discussed Cristóbal Balenciaga, Baird-Murray talked about Ralph Lauren and Beyfus assessed Hubert de Givenchy. While there was general agreement that Balenciaga was fashion's greatest master, there was debate over the skills and talents of the other three featured designers. Does great marketing ability make one a great designer? When is historical referencing just copying? Why are fashion books so important to understand the industry? See the authors discuss these questions and more, all while fighting the corner of their respective designers, in this footage now!
While you're at it, why not snap up the books from SHOWstudio Shop or revisit our first ever Book Club discussion with the authors of the first four titles in the series?
Keen followers of our Collections live panel discussions will be aware that the eclectic chairs our panelists sat on during the talks were kindly lent to us by the studios of a range of acclaimed artists. Our visiting experts can be seen perched on seats belonging to Henry Krokatsis, Conrad Shawcross, Tobias Klein, Wolfgang Tillmans, Anj Smith, Tim Noble and Sue Webster, Barry Reigate and our very own Nick Knight. While I can often be seen reclining on the white chair the late great Lucian Freud painted Leigh Bowery on! Particularly of note is Henry Krokatsis' quaint paint-splashed stool, which once belonged to the brilliant David Hockney - Krokatsis inherited it when he moved into Hockney's old studio!
Visit all our on-demand panel discussions to see if you can spot all the different chairs! Here's Distric MTV's William Oliver looking great on Krokatatsis and Hockney's stool during our Prada discussion, and here's Ponystep's Richard Mortimer rocking out in Tim and Sue's rocking chair during our Moschino chat!
On Wednesday 9 October, Phaidon Press will be launching a newly updated and expanded edition of their industry bible The Fashion Book. The 500 entries in this up-to-the-minute edition include influential individuals and institutions in fashion, from designers, stylists and photographers to retailers, fashion colleges and journalists. This time round, The Fashion Book features new entries from the digital realm, and we're thrilled that SHOWstudio has been included!
Fittingly, our own Lou Stoppard will be chairing a panel discussion at a special launch event of the book at Topshop Oxford Circus. The panel of fashion doyens who will be speaking includes milliner Stephen Jones, head of BA Fashion at Central Saint Martins Heather Sproat and the curator of fashion at Somerset House Shonagh Marshall. The event is open to all fashion lovers on a first come first served basis, and runs from 18:00 to 21:00 BST. Head to Topshop on Wednesday to see the panel discuss fashion influences and inspirations, and tweet your own questions for the panelists via Twitter with the hashtag #topshoptalks. For more details head here!
Bob Gruen is the latest photographer to speak with Nick Knight in our series of interviews Punk: Photography. The pair speak about Gruen's shot of Sid Vicious on the Sex Pistols' American tour in 1978. His image captures a moment of extreme chaos, Sid scratched 'gimme a fix' on to his chest and had just been punched in the face by a female fan. Gruen watched from stage right, and gives a detailed account of the performance that night. The shot features in our current exhibition Photography of Punk at 19 Motcomb Street and the interview series continues this week when Dennis Morris recounts shooting John Lydon back stage at the Marquee Club in 1977.
Tune in tomorrow to watch SHOWstudio's latest Book Club panel. Lou Stoppard will be discussing the four new books in Quadrille's Vogue On series with their respective authors. This live literary chat features Linda Watson on Vivienne Westwood, Kathleen Baird-Murray on Ralph Lauren, Susan Irvine on Cristóbal Balenciaga and Drusilla Beyfus on Hubert de Givenchy. Join us for the in-depth discussion at 13.00 BST, and shop the beautiful books afterwards.
#BEENTRILL# is releasing 3 mixtapes this monday on Livemixtapes.com