by Alexander Fury .


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Appropriately enough, a cavalcade of 22 coats opened the Aquascutum show - after all, that is what the house does best. 'Couture' topped the list of inspirations, and in dividing their collection so emphatically into raincoated day and taffeta-ed night and showing in a venue where the audience could hear the pitter-patter of the models' Manolos on the runway, the brand tapped into this couture sensibility from the get-go. New Look shapes abounded, although with Aquascutum's quintessentially British sensibility the look was more about Norman Hartnell's fresh dressing of the young Princess Margaret than Dior's out-and-out glamour. Sacque and trapeze shapes cleansed the palette of anything too cloyingly feminine, while the stand out was a kingfisher blue boucle coat fit for HRH herself.