by Alexander Fury .

Armand Basi

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It was difficult to tell exactly what Marcus Lupfer was trying to say in his show for Armand Basi. There was a touch of psychedelia to the garishly coloured purple, satsuma and green prints, the crystal-encrusted heels had shades of Louis Quatorze and Trapeze line dresses (yes more of those) in stiff silk cloque had a distinct air of Balenciaga - Cristobal rather than Nicolas, luckily. With the considerable talents of Lupfer and accessories mastermind Katie Hillier behind the show, we had the right to expect more from this collection - this is Lupfer's second show for the label after all. Nevertheless on the whole it was weighted too heavily towards costume, crucially failing to ignite the desire required to breath fresh life into an existing label.