by Alexander Fury .

Fashion East

Past incubator for now stellar talents such as Marios Schwab, Gareth Pugh and Jonathan Saunders, Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East show has become know as a hot-bed of futues stars - much like that other London fashion institution, Central Saint Martins. Only one graduate showed tonight - Louise Grey, whose block-coloured shift dresses in soft silks embellished with faux-naif applique (her leitmotif) were sexed-up somewhat with suspender-belts and some crotch-flashing bodysuits, though it was the new focus on tailoring that moved her look on. Recyclist extraordinaire Noki opened the show and pulled the biggest cheers from the crowd for his collection of reworked sliced and diced t-shirts and ballgowns. Titled NHS - for Noki House of Sustainability, in case you didn't know - the look didn't plow his aesthetic forward anything much: but with a show manifesto decrying modern throw-away culture, maybe that was the whole point. David David's playful, 'Carry on Camping' collection acted as a perfect counterpoint to both Gray and Noki, showcasing light-hearted graphic prints - a huge London trend, and one young David Saunders has already mastered. His first showing at Fashion East, the rapturous reception of his work bodes well for his future success.