by Alexander Fury .

Pressing Issues

Marios Schwab
Giles for Atelier Swarovski

The AI press day is always a must-see for anyone with a taste for putting the more cerebral on their back. This season, as always, all was not as it seemed from the intriguing and interesting wares on offer from Adam Iezzi and his always effusively-helpful team. Ann-Sofie Back's OK!-inspired collection was striking on the runway, but up close the surprise was in the painstaking workmanship of her satin dresses (beautifully festooned with Paris Hilton inspired diamante body-piercings), and ironic wearability of her 'knicker' garments, even when a g-string gusset danged from a shoulder like a postmodern spaghetti-strap. Marios Schwab's collection made compulsive viewing (my strong opinions on the matter have already been fully-expressed), but after the show, backstage and Paris showroom his garments still hid secrets: unzipping his signature grosgrain sheath, we were met with this sinister countenance in the lining. The mesmerising images came courtesy of artist Tom Gallant, who combines the Japanese art of kirigami with the decidely Western passtime of pornography in his Morris & Co. etched X-rated images, utilised by Schwab throughout his 'Yellow Wallpaper' collection. Jeweller Jacqueline Rabun launched her own label in 1989, but is gaining fresh plaudits for her innovative signature designs: sectioned triptych rings and bangles in different metals, worn individually or combined together. The surprise here even came unbenownst to the designer: apparently, when combined and in movement on the body, the metals create a magnetic charge which holds the piece togther.

After trying on just about everything within arm's reach and keeping Adam well past closing time at A.I. it was down the road to Foubert's Place to cast a beady eye over Modus' latest wares. With clothes offered from London labels including Erdem, Biba and Felder Felder, alongside sportwear and even the august wares of Calvin Klein, there was something of a bazaar atmosphere to proceedings. Amidst this influx of product, it was the Atelier Swarovski annexe which really caught my attention (I'm a sucker for some glitz), in particular these curiously playful doodads (well, can you think of a better term?) from the otherwise sleek and sinister Giles collection.