The latest fashion expert to partake in our Punk: On the Runway series is Adrian Clark, editor of ShortList Mode and style director of ShortList. Clark references the Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1993 show as a standout 'punk' moment in fashion, citing its treatment of the fashion press as particularly memorable. 'You can't recreate punk as a style, punk was about an attitude and a time and a reverence. It was an acoustic to what was going on in the establishment,' he explains. 'Punk itself, when it's replicated as a style, seems fake'.
Forget about denim jackets, hair spikes and studs, the S/S 93 Margiela show was more subtle in its subversion. Margiela presented two different collections, one featuring head-to-toe pure white garments and one all-black ensembles. These were shown in different venues and guests were only invited to just one show, to the dismay and confusion of editors and photographers alike. The white collection was shown in a disused hospital in Montmartre, while the black collection was shown in an old house in Pigalle.
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