by Penny Martin .


It goes without saying that in fashion, once you have executed and published an idea, you can no longer maintain ownership of it. Nevertheless, it must have been galling for designer Ann-Sofie Back to learn that the brilliant Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf filled the Tuilleries tonight with the sound of rapturous applause for their novel idea of doing their show backwards. For Back has been beginning her show with the curtain call and proceeding towards the start for seasons now: it's just harsh that too few international press travel to London to realise that this was not an unprecedented innovation. Horsting & Snoeren assaulted the audience with an incessant, cut-up version of Diana Ross' 'Upside Down' (see their inverted logo and flanking floral tributes) to make sense of the 'toe-to-top' satin cocktail dresses with spaghetti straps trailing from their hems, topsy-turvy handbags and more straighforwardly commercial products such as dangling gold perfume bottles and sophisticated underwear.