by Alexander Fury .

Basso and Brooke

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'Subdued' is rarely a word that leaps to mind with Basso and Brooke, but with their Winter 2008 collection the perennial jokers seem to have grown up somewhat. Programme notes referenced contemporary urban landmarks as well as the architecture of Gehry and Gaudi - the former evident perhaps in the abstract Gherkin form of the duo's coats, the latter in their exploration of multifaceted texture in crystal-studded embroidery, patchwork and knitted yarn. The previously retina-detaching prints were muted into tonal patterns derived from architectural images, the collection's predominant shades an Autumnal palette of ochre, moss and even rich, caramelly beige. Maybe the madcap humour of previous seasons was missed somewhat, but by the time the boys trotted out a flawless beige trench, you were happy the jokes were over.