by Alex Fury .

Central Saint Martins MA

Steve Jung
Mary Katrantzou

The Central Saint Martins MA seems a fitting close to a week in which its alumni form so many of the leading lights. Marios Schwab, Christopher Kane, Peter Jensen and Ann-Sofie Back are just some of the success stories, while other graduates form the backbone of brands as diverse as Lanvin, Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani. Accordingly, the MA show - the only graduate show on the fashion week schedule - holds particular importance with a fashion press always ready for the next big thing. This season, the MA show served to underline the themes we have seen throughout fashion week: shoulder emphasis was all the rage, whether it was the rounded dolman of Simon Machabeli or Kari Landen's boxed shoulders. Sequins festooned trousers and skirts, and there was a predillection for crafty knits - witness L'Oreal prize winner Simone Shailes' cabled 'Working Girl' Power-Arans. There were many shades of Nicoll, Kane and Schwab in the graduating year, but originality did shine through: Mary Katrantzou's bold prints Constructivist prints sliced with golden zippers were as sharp and graphic as her popped shoulderline; Steve Jung's all almost-white First Communion menswear was exquisite; and Joanna Vanderpuije's pailletted and epauletted Estonian Air-hostesses gave a jolt of glamour. Despite the slim chance, the audience is always papably disappointed when another Kane fails to explode onto the catwalk - but perhaps this is a good thing, as one star can often overwhelm a year brimming with talent yet to bloom. Central Saint Martins should represent fashion future, epitomising the diverse range of talent which will - hopefully - keep London at the fashion forefront. At least until next season...

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