Nino's -the 1930's panelled restaurant in Rome - best artichokes in the World. Love the attentive starched waiters with brilliantined side partings sneaking bitter chocolate sauce over my vanilla ice cream.

Smell of charred chestnuts in the streets, bells and seagulls laughing like old women over head.

Came back to black rain and a band of bagpipes at Euston station. My friend,the Angel of Death was there. A good welcome home.