by Ben Knight Evans .

DYNAMIC BLOOMS - Inspecting the rails

Alister Mackie's rail of plenty
Something you never see on the rack - Dior haute couture

With everyone on set shooting the final look of Dynamic Blooms, the time was ripe to flick through Alister Mackie's expansive rails of S/S 2011 offerings. From the graphic tabbed contours of Gareth Pugh's metallic armour to the smouldering romanticism of John Galliano, the dresses on the rail for Dynamic Blooms take on both the architectonic and organic potency of flowers. For Jil Sander, floral reference is overt through print in a bold a-line gown and suggested through form with the arum-like peplum of an acid orange skirt. Versace's offerings of basket-weave fringing gowns in palazzo-esque turquoise and stone are fibrous and flailing in motion. The delicacy of Valentino's tulle ruffles are as languid on the rail as they are fragile in the air and -like the beautifully draped Haider Ackerman dress- appear in tones of coffee and chestnut that melt away in the breeze. Gareth Pugh and Louise Goldin both offer a bold armourial graphicism that represent a harder edge and when worn contour and envelope releasing a more potent feminine quality in revelation of the body. John Galliano's magnificent confections for Dior Couture literally bloom from the waist in the way M. Dior intended, brushstrokes of colour seething away from the centre. Vivienne Westwood's silver gown opens like an orchid in a dramatic, perhaps suggestive fashion. Shooting Bottega Veneta's fluid but linear silk dress was a very transformative process, with a drape of fabric beautifully revealing itself to be an enveloping petal with the aid of the wind machine.

Ben Evans