The month or so after the winter couture shows and before the spring ready-to-wear season is pretty much a fallow time in the fashion calendar (augmented by the fact that most of Europe jets off for their jollies for a few weeks come August). However, the crowd were cinched at the waist and winched into the highest of heels like it was mid-March in Paris this evening, for the V&A's latest Fashion in Motion celebrating the work of Giles Deacon. LOVE magazine Editor in Chief and Giles stylist and übermuse Katie Grand was front row for this veritable retrospective, showcasing Giles' first five years of eponymous creation.
The pieces were Giles' purported favourites - and indeed included many crowd-pleasers, not least a paparazzi-worthy trio of knitted cocoons (from S/S 2007 and A/W 2009) each of which transformed the wearer into an haute couture Cousin It. Elsewhere, we had reprisals of Deacon's Spring Pac-Man collection, his A/W 2006 Ellsworth Kelly show and even a couple of looks from his first ready-to-wear outing: witness the prissy pussy-bow blouse and strict tweed pencil skirt, a sly ode to The Good Life's Margot Ledbetter. The fifty-odd pieces were weighted (understandably) towards the grand red-carpet statements he does so very well. Indeed, Giles loves a ballgown and we saw all manner of his mastery of this mode of flamboyant and eccentrically English dressing, from twisted duchesse silk to rosette-strewn taffeta to laser-cut scarlet tulle. The consistency between the collections was interesting - indeed, it highlighted those garments which can now be considered Deacon trademarks, namely the taut, fitted above-the-knee cocktail sheaths in brightly-patterned silk he has been creating since his first collection and which he sells in shedloads.
Fitting that we should be dolled up to the nines like Paris Fashion Week for this timely examination and celebration of Deacon's work - next season, the label ups sticks to show in the French fashion capital after receiving funding via the Andem award. London is undoubtedly losing one of its biggest names and our loss is most definitely Paris' gain.
Read back through our up-to-the-minute coverage of Giles' Fashion in Motion on the SHOWstudio Twitter feed!