Greg French reports on the final shows from London’s Autumn/Winter 2013 collections. His thorough reviews cover the Simone Rocha, Roksanda Ilincic and Meadham Kirchhoff shows highlighting the setting, textures and even the smell from these anticipated shows.
French’s fluid prose reviews Simone Rocha’s collection entitled 'Respect your Elders'. He provides a comprehensive vision, noting contextual details such as the comforting touch of family reiterated throughout. He covers topics from the the direct interpretation of Rocha’s inspirations (her Irish and Chinese grandmothers) to the pre-show aroma of cheese and ham toasties to the active support of Rocha’s family, both backstage and front row.
Although the palette at Simone Rocha may have been sickly sweet with its ladylike pinks and soft pastels, Roksanda Ilincic’s spooky and sensual collection confirmed this trend with a ‘muted palette’ of mint and pink. French’s review marked Ilincic’s undoubtedly secure position amongst ‘London's fashion elite’ as a vantage point to present a collection that 'returned to her love of dark drama - something that characterised her earliest student work’. Presented ‘with a sense of confidence and ease’, the textures conferred with rich sheens, bold PVC and faux fur scattered throughout.
Another confident collection was presented by Meadham Kirchhoff, which French unpicked in his review. He noted that the duo transcended their clashing aesthetic to offer a monochromatic show entitled 'Helter Skelter'. As the obvious masters of storytelling, Meadham Kirchhoff referenced gothic fairytales that takes the audience on a journey ‘somewhere between Victorian matron and fairground freak’.