by Alexander Fury .

Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann's collection, shown in almost monastic silence, managed to make nothing new at all seem very exciting indeed. This was again his vision of a modern - even futuristic - nomadic woman, transcending boundaries of nationality, era and even gender with her clothing. The models had an odd air of Tilda Swinton, perhaps as Orlando in the meshing of male and female into a form of androgyny which managed to throw up a different slant on the old boy-girl shtick. The extremely attenuated angular silhouettes were emphasised by high shoes and severely pinned-back hair, but the layering of fabrics and touches of luxury in tautly draped meshes and wafting, almost aquatic ostrich feather fronds gave a distinctly delicate, feminine touch. And the fabrics were extraordinary - translucent films veiling otherwise opaque-wrapped forms.