Our most recent Punk: On the Runway call is Margiela themed, following on nicely from last week's commentary from ShortList's Adrian Clark! While Clark waxed lyrical about the Maison Martin Margiela S/S 93 show, style writer and former Vogue fashion features editor Harriet Quick reminisces about Martin Margiela's haunting catwalk show from the year before, S/S 92.
'Off course he was showing in Paris very much under his own terms', explains Quick. 'The invitations were sent out to guests and press that invited them to go to not a conventional auditorium, but a disused subway in the outskirts of Paris - I'm sure you can imagine everyone's delight!'
The show is an example of Margiela at his best, though it's difficult to find much of a record of it online. Caroline Evans, in her brilliant book Fashion at the Edge, writes, 'Martin Margiela's Spring-Summer 1992 collection was shown in a disused Paris metro station, Saint Martin, that had been out of use since 1939. Its three main stair wells down which the models paraded were lit by 1,600 beeswax candles, stuck by their own wax to the metal handrails. The presentation was entirely new, revolutionary for a catwalk show, yet also old in its evocation of pre-war dereliction and its use of poetic urban spaces. This complex dialogue of past and present also incorporated a vision of the future in that Margiela's innovative way of showing clothes broke new ground in mapping out future possibilities for the catwalk show.'