by Alexander Fury .

It's all Relative

Christopher Kane's Aran Armour
Pierre Hardy for Louise Goldin

Representing a whole scion of British fashion, the Relative press day is a chance to examine both established names and up-and-coming labels side-by-side – and the joy of seeing original, beautifully constructed clothing up close is always palpable. Of course, the rails of Christopher Kane were much-thumbed, and justifiably so. The intricately-worked pailette and passmenterie surfaces of his flapper dresses and cropped jackets were fascinating, likewise his weighty armorial arans with cable-knit outlined in silver chains and studs – nevertheless, utterly wearable. Louise Goldin’s fur-trimmed intasia-knitted ‘Inuit In Space’ collection (my words, not hers) was as striking off the catwalk as on – the space-age Pierre Hardy boots especially were worth a second glance - all too often small details like those can pass you by. Emma Cook’s ‘Lonesome Susie’ collection suggested the prairie isn’t such a bad place after all, if you can dress in Cook’s patchworked Gothic gossamer lace, tie-dyed latex tiers and ‘Dolly Does Dallas’ Swarovski-fringed showgirl dresses. Away from the London Catwalks, Preen’s Kurt Kobain-inspired checked cocoon coats with buckled sheepskin scraps managed to walk that fine lined between refined and edgy, while the chunky, clunky, skyscraper high heels of Charlotte Olympia (designed by Charlotte Dellal, sister of our Wonderland model Alice) seem to be popping up everywhere. Relatively speaking, it was pretty much all a hit.