by Alexander Fury .

Jens Laugesen

The final part of a trilogy of collections he calls 'Interior' Jens Laugesen's A/W 2008 collection managed to tread a tricky line between historicism and modernity, integrating elements of Victorian costume into beyond-contemporary tailoring. Working with his usual, highly-restricted palette - black in a multitude of finishes and two shades of blue were all we got - Laugesen used fabric and seam detail to draw an analogy between his garments and costume of the past. A short jacket had raised seams like the boning of an Edwardian bodice and brocade was everywhere, albeit reinterpreted with specially commissioned geometric patterns. The only other decoration were Swarovski crystals, bonded to fabrics and detailing lapels and harness-like angular shoulderpads inspired by the work of architect Zaha Hadid. The high-waisted strong-shouldered line Laugesen excels in has been on virtually every catwalk this season, but his version had real conviction - he has been refining it since the inception of his label. And maybe that was the issue - nothing looked especially new. But with this show marking the closure of the trilogy - and with his recent sponsorship by Fashion Forward - the most interesting part of this collection was wondering what Jens will do next.