by Penny Martin .

Jil Sander Press Day

Well, did you ever?! Just when you were getting used to black, grey and more black as the A/W season gets into full swing in the shops, Raf Simons' new collection for Jil Sander hits the runway and fries the bleary retinas! Both the mens and womens' spring collections were on view in a central London showroom where Paul H and I did an appointment yesterday and we came away positively effusing about the palette, the fabrics, the economy of expression, the graphic appeal...

These images captured by picture phone maybe give some sense of this, but wait until you see the garments close up: the finest neoprenes, crinkly graph paper from which tents are usually made, coated cottons, irridescent sequins, felted cashmeres - all rendered in eye watering primaries, the richest navies and starkest architect's black or whites. On contacting Raf's office directly, we gather that the spectrum was influenced by "The pigmented sharpness of Anish Kapoor". Combined with virtuoso production and a deft sense of proportion (the small separates somehow slim and elongate the silhouette) Simons' inspired use of colour has created the perfect suit of summer clothes.

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