Following on from The Karass, the film made by Nick Knight with Kat Marks showcasing her stunning MA Fashion Artefact graduate collection, yesterday evening saw an invite-only showing of the film (alongside her work) as part of the London College of Fashion's MA private view at Victoria House in Holborn. Speaking with Kat we learnt that each collection begins with a Kurt Vonnegut story, 'the Karass' being an expression coined by the American writer in Cat’s Cradle to describe a group that meets spontaneously and works harmoniously. Marks also examined ‘emergence’ which in philosophy, science and art examines the patterns and origins that precede objects and events. This all sounds horrendously complex, but the beauty of the pieces and the exhibit were plain to see, the film being framed monolithicly with six of Marks’ breastplate pieces.
The exhibition as a whole was an impressive showcase, displaying the work of several MA Fashion courses including Digital Fashion, Fashion Curation and Footwear. Of note in Photography was Camilo Eschenem’s image of heaped clothing, which reflected issues of disposability in fashion that the Fashion and the Environment program seeks to address. As always, the successes here were when the beauty and craft of the pieces negated the need for responsibility as an excuse. Saida Bruce’s elegantly displayed pieces acknowledged the traditions of ethical clothing with spriggy florals and lived-in and sunned-on colours, and elevated them with simple but touching elements such as a seemingly frail single thread blanket-stitch.
Also interesting in the Fashion Artefact exhibition was Wei Wang's collection of geometrically-shaped cracked-porcelain minaudières and Yu Lin Xu's irregular polyhedron bags, some in Miami pastels and others in more muted stony tones.
Ben Knight Evans